Tweet
Randy i didnt say you were building a mono I said x series props are truly mono props according to their manufacturer . No great concepts needed just wondering why hydro props are no good for hydros ? Any takers?
-
-
All boats are different. All props are differnt. Between the configuration of the setup, motor rpm/speed/hullcharacteristics, certain props WILL work with certain boats and some will not. To call a prop a mono or hydro prop is much too vague.Comment
-
The water is different, at different places too so one prop that will work in one pond will not work in another pond. I have to agree with Rum dog on his points too. I like to stay focused and direct to the point, other wise I give wrong info. Besides that I like short and sweet!Comment
-
Since you don't need the air intake for cooling, I believe aerodynamically you will have less drag if you plug the intake scoop. Based on slope operation of an F-86 that would not stay in the air until the nose intake was blocked, versus being left open...Comment
-
...................................* BBY Lift Master RIgger * Insane Gen 2 Cat * Aeromarine Avenger Pro Twin * Delta Force Cyber Storm * Delta Force 41" Mono * H&M Viper II * H&M Intruder * OSE Raider Hydro * Whiplash 20 * Brushless Mini Rio *Comment
-
OOOkay???????Comment
-
Comment
-
I run this motor in my sport hydro on 10s using a 460 prop. Anything bigger just drags the motor down. Radtec runs the 460 as well in his much lighter cat on 12s and the same prop. Speeds are low 50s for 10s and high 50s to 60 mph with 12s.
MarkComment
-
Have you had a chance to datalog the motor yet? How much does your sport hydro weigh rtr?Just curious. I havent had a chance to mount the screamer yet .Im testing a few other motors first.Comment
-
My boat weighs 20+lbs. No data logging equipment.
MarkComment
-
Sorry, have been out of town. In your build you stated you put a ply plate over the electrics and were just going to leave the scoop open and let the air flow through. Based on my model airplane experience you might do better closing it off. There was an F-86 slope soarer converted from a power kit, first owner left the nose intake open to allow air to flow through--but when he tried to fly it, he couldn't get up enough speed to keep it in the air. He sold it, and the new owner blocked the nose intake. This reduced the drag on the model to the point it became flyable.
So it might be worthwhile for you to try the same. Run the boat with the scoop unblocked, get a speed reading, then block the opening (maybe just tape it shut for a temporary fix, and tape the back closed) and see if you pick up some speed. Blocking the scoop should reduce drag, which will allow more power to go into more speed...Comment
-
Comment
-
Yeah, I would agree with that, but also 100% agree about maintaining the look. What you might do to help maintain the look is put a flat plate blocking the scoop but in front of that a screen so it looks like an intake screen--with the plate painted flat black and the intake screen silver, it should maintain the look nicely. At least that's what I plan to do on my Sport X hydro that showed up in the mail this week. That's what I'm going to put my LittleScreamers motor in--at 50" the hull should be able to support a 12S setup without too much of a problem...Comment
-
Randy, whats a good starting strut angle and depth for an fe 1/8th. scale?Comment
-
I always set the strut at zero. Depth depends on the angle of attack at the sponson, I go for 3.5 degrees on most setups.
Hear is a setup article
Comment
Comment