1/6th Scale Crackerbox - Ruleset

[chuckc]

Please sir...can we run the flat bottom instead of the 5 degrees suggested? Just like the real ones .....LOL I am so glad that we can build the boat our way (correct)......just forget about running it in nationals, no one has time to see what the "starting point" boat will look like What's with that.
I get it ....You are in charge and you are going to do it your way right or wrong. That's like throwing your baby in the ocean with a candle instead of a "life" vest....
You are a funny man with your merry men sitting on the throne LOL. I am going to say it now and after the nats,,,,,I TOLD YOU SO

jim.

Go forth and ye shall see a great wonder in front of you, There is no throne, nor a herd of solders awaiting, but, GO HAVE SOME FUN. Build it your way. Too bad you and Randy won't build and join the fun. It would be great to stomp on ya for at least 3 heats.....Blahhhhahaha

[chuckc]

Hey Boz,

You want to see talent, just wait, you got talent. I think you just hit some pay dirt now bro. You have just PO'd allot of talented builders and drivers from accoss this country. Keep it up... or better yet SHOW UP !!!

[RandyatBBY]

Chuck You are just antagonizing trying to start a fight. I was sucked in to it twice grow up and stop acting like a child. I am a friend treat me like one.

Boz chill out, hang tough we will work this out. Do not be rude to the people we all love and enjoy. All of them are good people and deserve respect just like the rest of us.

I am surprised that no one has responded to Marks post below on rum runner. I have been around this sport longer than most of you. You all should listen to the words of wisdom. We should put this up for a vote. There has not been one, Just a few bullies pushing there wishes.
Mark F
Racer Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Orange, Ca.
Posts: 430

I wasn't going to get in to this but I want to add my .02 I use to race Cb in the skimmers club back in the mid to late 90s. In the biginning we had weak stock motors and 1400 mah nicads. The boats were a hand full but managable. Then we started using stronger roar legal motors and batteries were getting Zaped and 2000 mah. Now the power got to be too much. With the strait shafts you have a lot of negative on the prop. This created a boat that looked like a pogo stick going down the straits. We added trim tabs and that only helped a little. We added wieghts. We also added turn fins because if you didn't your boat would slide and then barrel roll in the corners. We had skags as well and that helped them track better. It was so difficult to even finish a race that the class just died out. We all agreed at the time that we needed to get rid of the strait shaft rule to make the boat work better and be more fun. You guys have had some veterans come on here and give some good pointers but nobody seems to want to listen. I have no doubt Brian will get his boat going but I dont know about the majority of the rest of you guys. The real CG had a reason for the strait shafts. Those reasons dont translate to us. The gas guys are having a blast with there boats and thats because they got rid of the strait shaft. The real apeal of CB is building the boat with a cool motor and drivers. These boats are flat bottoms and will hop and blow over with no problems with adjustable struts and turn fins. I think you guys need to include in the rules to allow an adjustable strut that stays under the hull and a turn fin. Otherwise you guys are going to find out just how difficult CB are to drive let alone finnish a race. I think this is great that you guys are trying to get this class going again and I hope it all works out.

Mark

[sailr]

I TOTALLY agree with Mark's suggestion regarding the shaft rules. It should be OPTIONAL to use a straight shaft or an adjustable strut!

[sailr]

HOLD THE PHONE! Rich Cole at Mack's Products is going to be coming out with a 31", 1/6 SCALE cracker kit taken off of the full size Glen L design. He wasn't aware of this thread or the renewed interest until I talked to him today. He has a question though. On the full scale rules, it was optional and allowed to have a non-trip or hard chine. He needs to know if our rules will allow that as well. He is waiting for an answer before he can finish up the kit. Please keep me in the loop on this as I am working with Rich.

[sailr]

If you're going to go straight shaft, Mack's Products has struts, stainless solid shafts and stuffing boxes with bearings. Also rudders, rudder stuffing boxes, steering arms, etc. Prices are great.

No, I don't work for him! Just passing along a link to some good stuff!

http://www.mackproductsrc.com/props_&_hardware.htm

[BOZINATOR]

6..

[AndyKunz]

On the full scale rules, it was optional and allowed to have a non-trip or hard chine. He needs to know if our rules will allow that as well.

Seems to me if you're running a class that requires the hulls to look like full-scale boats, you need to allow both.

Andy

[sailr]

That would be my opinion too but need to have more people wade in on this before I give Rich an answer. Looks like we're being pretty sticklish with the rules so don't want to mislead him.

Seems to me if you're running a class that requires the hulls to look like full-scale boats, you need to allow both.

Andy

[highndry]

My CB

Heres my CB - complies with all IMPBA, NAMBA, local clubs and any other galactic requirements.

MERRY CHRISTMAS !

[highndry]

CB

Here

[highndry]

CB

More..just need a bigger prop

[sailr]

It's the KEEBLER SPECIAL!

[highndry]

Its an optical dillusion..the bottom is actually flat.

[Flyguy55]

Its pretty clear the APBA Crackerbox rules don't allow nontrip chines .

50.5.8 Concavity measurements shall be taken from a straightedge placed from keel centerline to right and left chines.
50.5.9 The bottom shall not have longitudinal or transversal steps outside the keel centerline including relieved chine or concavity. When measuring
for bottom concavity there will be a 1/8th inch maximum deviation from a theoretical straight line from keel centerline to chine. The concavity
measurement shall include any distance from keel centerline to chine from transom to amidships. When attaching hardware to the bottom
of the hull, prop shaft shrouds, fins, water pickups and struts must be located within 2 inches of the keel centerline. When above hardware
prevents placing a straightedge directly on the keel centerline, the Inspector shall place the straightedge as close to the keel centerline as
possible. Reference the Technical Inspection Manual and Guide to Measuring the Racing Crackerbox for measuring procedure. The wood
hull is to be constructed using wood frames covered with plywood not less than 1/4 inch thick. The fiberglass hull must be built in within the same
specifications and limitations as wooden hull construction; however, wood frames will not be required. All frames and station numbers will be
converted into inches to determine the same location of cockpit and engine as in the present design.
50.5.10 Hull bottoms shall have no breaks in the longitudinal or transverse continuity other than the keel. There shall be allowed a 1/8” break
or step in the transverse direction for the purpose of attaching hardware such as fins, water pickups, turning fins, strut, etc. to the bottom of
hull.
50.5.11 All longitudinal breaks shall be essentially parallel to the keel, from the transom to amidships.
50.5.12 The keel shall not be higher than a straight line from chine to chine from the transom to amidships.
50.5.13 Hulls may have a flat keel area on both sides of centerline. The outer edges of the flat keel area shall be essentially parallel to the
centerline of the hull, in the area from the transom to fifty-four (54) inches forward of the transom.
50.5.14 In this flat keel area concavity (hollow) shall not exceed 1/8th inch per foot, as measured from a straight edge, running parallel to the
transom, in the area from the transom, to fifty-four inches forward of the transom.