BBY's HRP CC build It is going electric!

[graill]

Downsizing the shaft because of the use of Octura's ?
Why not use Propshops, they have an assorti of smaller props with 1/4 bore.

I understand the money thing, but when you build a giant cat or two or three, you need to know to expect its a huge money sink.

I understand the reasoning for the stepping down for testing, keep in mind a huge boat slamming down if it does get airborne will bend shafts, i bent three in testing and the prop shanks were not cut down. as an example a heavy cat a foot or more in the air........coming down on its ass, at speed........These arent small rigs (grin) as for props, it took me 5 pairs to get the sets i wanted between dasboata and chuck, i show a few of the finished sets in photos for the big rigs.

My two cents, if you do any "hard testing" you may bend something. looks like your having fun Randy, keep up the sweet work. if the rig does get airborne (due to waves or wind) you may want to check runout of the shafts with a dial gauge to be safe.

a side note
Lets see, 50-70 pounds depending on setup/batteries doing a soft 80 mph carries the potential kinetic energy of around roughly 950-1670 pounds of dead stop weight, just some thoughts. (grin)

[RandyatBBY]

The weight is at 41 pounds at this point, just the way it sits.

Thanks Grail glad you understand what I am trying to do. You explained a little better. I just need to practice what I preach and I will not blow any more 40.160

[graill]

The weight is at 41 pounds at this point, just the way it sits.

Thanks Grail glad you understand what I am trying to do. You explained a little better. I just need to practice what I preach and I will not blow any more 40.160

If i may suggest, startout with the low timing (very soft for the lehners), a 1.5 pitch 63 mm. you wont hit 55 or 60 but you can safely setup all attitudes in these slow passes. you wont break plane and you will have some hopping but you get the mechanics sorted.

At medium timing move to a 65 mm 1.6 and finalize your balance attiudes, you will break plane on this setting. At the last two high settings on the schulzes be careful, no larger than 1.8, 65mm, any higher and the amp pull will be spiking way over 300 amps (trust me on this) . and if you have a good digital radio use that for throttle restriction a bit. the last setting on the schulze is deadly in the wrong hands, you will see what i mean (grin) and the caps wont hold at wot at this setting if you havent got additional caps added to the esc itself. this is for the 40.160 only. its a beast of an esc.

with 12s 3p per side and my suggested props these will be your run times, your times will vary depending on setup.

Of the 4 settings lowest to highest
12-17 minutes low/soft no plane (sorta)
6-10 minutes on plane
4-6 minutes , watch the eagletree and amps
2-3 minutes , look for smoke on the water (grin) you will hit triple digits if your setup right and the water is glass. *cough* you will get two wot runs and a bit of playtime. with 12s1p as i saw somewhere in the thread thats cutting it close with a giant cat on a just a single decent hot wot pass, i know i wouldnt try it (grin)

[Xcesive8]

Grail..

Do you have any pics of a 12s3P setup in one of your boats?
Id like to see some pics of them all in there, thats alot of batterys.

[RandyatBBY]

Did you look at his build? that link is to his pictures.

Grail you know that I lost my hard drive all my links are on it. I now have internet at home AT&T $20.00 a month special. so I can add a little in the evenings. Ware are you getting this 1.5 pitch from? I use mostly Octura and Prather props. I use some ABC off and on. the 5 series has something like that in a blank at the top of the column. I have always read pitch/inches and the 462 has 3.416 inches of pitch. so you puzzle me with that part. Once we have this figured out the rest of what you said makes sense.

[Xcesive8]

Wow!!
Thats alot of batteries huh.
Can you please explain what all those things are in between the Schultz Controllers and the batteries?

I just dont understand why schultz bother saying in there manual that your wiring cant be more than fut-xl: (10“) 25 cm red, 25 cm black in total length from esc to batts, when in your pics ( Grails P/Princess) there clearly alot more length than that?

Sorry to write this in your thread Randy, just curious as to how you do it in these HUGE machines.
Guess ill wait and see how you do it aswell

[RandyatBBY]

No problem Xcesive8 (for the lack of your name) are all learning as far as I am concerned. My Dad use to say "when you quit making mistakes and quit learning you are dead".
I found that the high voltage is a little more tolerant of the long wires. We are running on voltage and not amps if that makes sense. The low voltage like 2S and 4S you need the short wires due to the amp draw. With 40 or 50 volts the amp draw is a lot less. In my 1/8 Scale and big cats I run a lot of wires and way over the limit.
Hope that helped some, I am sure Jay Turner could say it so every one really understood.

[graill]

sent you a pm Randy.

also if you need new links i can send you a snotload to your email, mostly my building suppliers but maybe you can usem.

[RandyatBBY]

[Xfactor]

In all cases amperage or voltage the shorter wires are going to be better for you Randy.If theres more voltage available @ the load it will require less amperage for the same power.
EX. 100amps X 40 volts += 4000 watts is the same thing as 133amps X 30 volts. Depending on the gauge? this may all be neglegable . I definately keep runs of 10ga or smaller less than a foot.

[vvviivvv]

I found that the high voltage is a little more tolerant of the long wires. We are running on voltage and not amps if that makes sense. The low voltage like 2S and 4S you need the short wires due to the amp draw. With 40 or 50 volts the amp draw is a lot less.

same reason your power is sent around the country on high voltage normally 400,000 volts (well in England it is, could be 275,000 in usa)

say you sent 1MW at 230v (uk power) over 20km of copper cable 50mm2 cross section the power station would need to produce 29,810V (emf) and generate 130MW to get the 230v + 1MW... not efficient

sending it at 11,000v the current is reduced to 91amps... i think thats 95% efficient

yeah i know its alot more complicated explination but you get the idea? i hope took me about a hour to work it all out A level physics for you

[RandyatBBY]

While getting settled back in to work again I stumbled on a cool way to cap your connectors while setting them up for parallel or sceries setups. I added a little shrink warp to the neg side of the connectors and cut it with a Exacto knife.


I realized that it could be put back on if stretched a little with needle nose pliers. It is alos nice to have the extra shrink a little long to have a good handle on the cap.


I an able to link the batteries in series like so. I will post more as the build goes.

[graill]

I had a bunch of caps made for my cables and batt packs. Let me know if you want the url Randy.

[6S HYDRO]

Autozone has red caps that fit 5.5 plugs flawlessly

[RandyatBBY]

Autozone has red caps that fit 5.5 plugs flawlessly

I know that there is vacuum caps at the auto parts store that will do the trick, thanks for trying to help. I like little ways to help save a little $$$. It was just a tip to save money, I will use this my self. Damon is having to wait till the next pay check to get the water pumps and this is my little way to help him.