Dumas Sk Daddle Build

[FE Wannabe]

Jay,
Thanks for your input. As always your experience is appreciated.

Brad

[Punisher 67]

Coool build , the Sk Daddle brings back some memories also . we had one in the late 70's with a .19 OS Max marine motor and as Jay mentioned mid to high 20's with a sub surface drive . man the was haulin a$$ back then . If I ever do one again it will be with a miniature jet drive

[wakeboardfusion]

I got the dumas hardware to go with it with the straight shaft for a subsurface drive. Maybe I might just get a brushless system for it. What kv should i look at? also for a speed control 35 amp? or higher?

[wakeboardfusion]

You will not meet your goal of mid-20s with a $3 motor and 7 cells. A 12T or 15T motor will also be a mistake on a hull that size. I understand your desire to save money, but I strongly recommend something like a 700 motor and 12 cells. This will give far better performance and longer run times with cooler temps. I fear that if you use the tiny Johnson motor you will be disappointed in the performance and the run time/reliability. After going to all the effort to build this cool boat (I built several in the early-70s myself) it deserves enough power to get on plane like the 'real' boat did.


.

Yeah, i was looking last night and the motor is only 6000rpm at 12v Luckly you mentioned something before i wasted the time putting it in. If i were to go brushed would a 700BB motor work from offshores store? I could use 14 cells because that is what i have, or 2 2s lipos. Which speed control would work with a brushed? I need to look at the plans to find out what size of skeg to get. I should have some time this weekend to get some of the boat done.

[wakeboardfusion]

sorry for being so slow...Gluing the bottom on Now...

[wakeboardfusion]

got the other side on...


Also i am debating on doing a skeg or not, the guy at the hobby shop said to try it without one and see if it needs one. In the directions it makes it sound that it MUST have one. any one have thoughts? here is what i drew up according to the directions specs, all it says is 1 inch wide and 1 3/8 tall, i guess design is up to you?



Also i want to think out loud... The reason i am building this boat is because im sick of boats flipping and flooding. (shockwave 36, blackjack 26) Just wanted a nice slower scale boat to just have fun with. Winter is comming, so i am going to use what i have, and for next year buy a brushless system. Cant wait to start my next build, either a cat or a hydro.

[wakeboardfusion]

Man, cant get any help around here? Well here is my progress


got the bottom all glued on


the side is being clamped as we speak



Now looking at battery location, should i trim down this rib to put the battery here?


Or should i cut a hole out of this one so i can slide them up. I think this would move more weight forward for better CG. Any imput?

[Fluid]

At this point, place ALL the drive and radio gear in the boat and see where the CG is. The decking will move the final CG forward a bit, it is always best to have as much battery placement adjustability as possible with a "new" boat like this. I can tell you that the CG will be critical for best performance.

The 700 motor will work well, but keep the prop size on the small size, like an x438 or K38 to start. I'd use 12 NiMH cells if you can, 14 cells only if you have to. Why? The lower voltage will help the motor to last longer.

Have you figured out a hatch to cover the motor/battery compartment? Something easy to tape down....

Don't listen to the LHS idiot - you WILL need the fin if you ever expect to turn tightly, and it will be tougher to retrofit later. The fin will also help to reduce flipping.

I'm looking forward to seeing how this project goes for you...



.

[wakeboardfusion]

At this point, place ALL the drive and radio gear in the boat and see where the CG is. The decking will move the final CG forward a bit, it is always best to have as much battery placement adjustability as possible with a "new" boat like this. I can tell you that the CG will be critical for best performance.

The 700 motor will work well, but keep the prop size on the small size, like an x438 or K38 to start. I'd use 12 NiMH cells if you can, 14 cells only if you have to. Why? The lower voltage will help the motor to last longer.

Have you figured out a hatch to cover the motor/battery compartment? Something easy to tape down....

Don't listen to the LHS idiot - you WILL need the fin if you ever expect to turn tightly, and it will be tougher to retrofit later. The fin will also help to reduce flipping.

I'm looking forward to seeing how this project goes for you...



.

I was going to work on the hatch once i get the decking on so i can get excat dimentions

[RandyatBBY]

I built one of these a long time ago, it was my second boat. it will take a little power like Jay said. I ran mine back then in 12 cells and a Hughey gear box. I still have the boat I put some runners on the bottom, sotra made it a tunnel hull ran fast. It has a plastic airplane skin, Mono coat a thin film with hand cut flames. Hear is a picture of my old boat.

[wakeboardfusion]

thats a nice lookin boat there, the best picture ive seen.

[wakeboardfusion]

Gluing the other side on, im out shopping for brushless systems now i think :)

Should i get 2 2s 5000mah batteries so i can either run them 2s 10000mah or 4s 5000 mah

or just buy a 3 or 4 s battery.

[wakeboardfusion]

now here comes the hard part... Gotta start working on the body work and the interior.

[RandyatBBY]

It is looking good. Sorta makes me want to redo the skin and install new hardware in mine. I would not put in too much power in the boat, I would push mine with 2S2P 5000mah and a L Fegiao motor or something like that . I thought you might like to see the picture of the bottom. With the power we have today I will need to raise the strut a lot. I would think a saddle pack will work best

[RandyatBBY]

Oh I do have a T type stainless steel skeg it is5/8 deep X1/2 long