F1h2o

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My F1 project is taking shape, although it's a big model it's still tight in the fuselage, so I've printed a tower so everything fits in the rear end.

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Progress is slow but sure

[RandyatBBY]

wow that is a neat looking Out Board motor. do you have a link to it?

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Thanks, I designed and built it from scratch using a small lathe and 3d printer. I now have 3 prop outboards and 2 jet drive outboards also designed by me. Let me find a you tube link.

https://youtube.com/watch?v=PiVPsz7CdBI&feature=share7

[NativePaul]

Nice, could you make one with a shorter leg? For best results the botom of the prop should be level with or slightly above the bottom of the sponsons. you couls always raise up the one you have, but it looks like that would put the cowling well above the top of the cabin and look a bit funny.

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I do have ways of raising the engine, but so far I've found my props suck air in and loose traction if too near the surface. Which is why I added the hydrofoil cum anti ventilation plate. However I could produce a special short shaft version of my outboard just for this model, the mid section being 20 to 25mm shorter. Instead of filling with oil I would pack it with high quality grease, sealed for life, this would help me make it shorter. I think testing on the water will show which is the best way. I might make a battery bay cover just for testing with a gps window and a watt meter.
What will be the effect of it being too low, is it just loss of speed, or will it try and take off, ie poor handling?

[RandyatBBY]

Well it looks like you are having fun and that is what it is all about.

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F1h2o

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Boat club yesterday morning, then try to sort printer it's thrown a massive wobbly. After much head scratching I think it was in need of a new nozzle, which seems to have done the trick. Then I finished the wrap, with teatime upon me I started masking off the windows. I had to be called down for dinner, whoops.
I didn't want to leave the tapes on overnight so went back to finish it, only a short drying time and peeled off the tapes, wow it brought it to life, pleased that went well.

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Pleased that went well, getting all these on without messing any up is quite a challenge. Wing mirrors next.

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F1h2o Italian job

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It's been a difficult day, notice the red wing mirror is now white. The red didn't dry, so spent an hour rubbing them down , repainting, white probably looks better anyway. In between that I have been trying to fix the printer, at one time it just kept switching off . Anyway I've ordered a new hot end from aliexpress so will have to do without for a while, hope that sorts it.

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F1h2o Italian job!

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Photo 1, a short length of 1.6mm wire, no bends needed, gives steering servo an easy job.
Photo 2, Seems very close without a wire extension, maybe I could make those brass tube adapters in the photo an inch longer and solder the esc wires directly to them. Covered in heatshrink of course.
Printer....I watched a utube video of how to clean out the hot end on my anycubic vyper, excellent, so will try it, it's been used for over a year so guess it's overdue for a service. I can recommend this printer, which I did to club mate Philip, he loves it too.

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[Bande1]

That is a beauty! I fell in love with my old tunnel hull someone at my club gave me. I de-converted it from electric to nitro and man it has opened my eyes to how fun petrol is. You should look into a used K&B for that bad boy!

IMG_20230804_092945.jpg

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20230827_083940.jpgOur club doesn't allow combustion engines due to pollution and noise. Also I can design and build my own electric outboards which to me is more satisfying than the actual running. If they did allow them I love those arrow shark 1/4 scale with actual petrol engines, they look and sound like the real thing

[NativePaul]

I do have ways of raising the engine, but so far I've found my props suck air in and loose traction if too near the surface. Which is why I added the hydrofoil cum anti ventilation plate. However I could produce a special short shaft version of my outboard just for this model, the mid section being 20 to 25mm shorter. Instead of filling with oil I would pack it with high quality grease, sealed for life, this would help me make it shorter. I think testing on the water will show which is the best way. I might make a battery bay cover just for testing with a gps window and a watt meter.
What will be the effect of it being too low, is it just loss of speed, or will it try and take off, ie poor handling?

Both, the main benefit of surface drive is reducing drag by getting most of your leg and prop hub out of the water, but a surface piercing prop will also have prop lift (high and low lift props are available but even a low lift will be lifting the rear and thus pushing the nose down to some extent) so you will likely needless trim angle. Performance aside surface drive gives you a rooster tail like the full size ones have.
Cavitation is the downside to surface drive, there is really no way around it, they will do it and you lose low speed acceleation because of it in order to gain high end speed, but the props are designed for it with an ethos more along the lines of grabbing cups of water and throwing them backwards to provide thrust, than the traditional submerged prop screwing it's way through the water.
You have a surface drive prop running submerged but close to the surface which is not the optimal combo, if you decide not to lift the prop up switching to a prop designed to run submerged like an eco or fsrv prop would increase your performance and reduce your cavitation.