Thanks for posting! Nice to see them side by side.
***NEW*** Pro Boat UL-19 30" Sport Hydro
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Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."Comment
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Thanks for clearing that up Darin. I saw a post on FB and Rafael stated it was similar to the 1716. The 1716 works great on my Geico set up with the 3831 motor. I'm going to run the stock s&b prop soon to see how well it does prepped and compare the results. Thanks again to everyone involved with Pro Boat for continuing to bringing us good RTR products.TFL Zonda (124mph), Miss Geico Zelos 36 (108mph), Veles 29 (91mph), Zelos Twin 36 (90mph), Miss Geico 29v3 (83.5mph), Sonicwake 36 V2 (83mph), Blackjack 42 (81mph), TFL Pursuit (79mph), UL-19 (75mph), Sonicwake 36 (73mph), Motley Crew (47.5mph), AquaCraft Rescue 17Comment
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Also, keep in mind... I'm NEVER going to attempt to recommend a prop that'll give you the "best speed". Maybe I can make it work, but maybe you can't. It's not as simple as just bolting a pinion gear into an RC Car. If I suggest a prop, and you end up burning up a power system, then I'm the bad guy, because you did everything "just right" and it was my prop recommendation that was the problem.
So, the props I would recommend are for "normal" sporty running. If you want to race GPS readouts, you'll have to build up your prop inventory from there.
Sorry, just being prudent, based on past experience.Comment
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Seems like some marketing bozo threw "6s compatible" in there... the stock motor clearly is not the right speed for 6s. Man, I run a 1250kv in my 8s setup... BTW, it's not the size of the motor that makes it cell compliant, it's the kv. The size comes into play when you run larger props. It kinda looks like to me the stock motor should be a 4072 or equivalent. 36 seems a bit wimpy...Rafael Lopez
Product Developer-Pro Boat
My Facebook https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100010183246751Comment
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Darin has proven the boat will swing an 1815 or 1816 (cant remember) on 4s and get 53 mph. It may even swing an 1819 and get closer closer to 55+. To me, that's where a P-LTD boat should be speed wise, to be competitive. Why didn't we include a prop closer to 18XX instead of one close to the 17 series? Because people would have thrown 6s at it and definitely burned stuff up. When you're in our shoes, you learn that you have to put competitive products on the market but also do your best to protect people from themselves; unfortunately.Rafael Lopez
Product Developer-Pro Boat
My Facebook https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100010183246751Comment
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46 is great! I was seeing 44-46 depending on water conditions when testing with a raw prop.Rafael Lopez
Product Developer-Pro Boat
My Facebook https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100010183246751Comment
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The video on that boat is just bloody awesome! Proboat did a great job! I'm not sure how you and Darrin are connected to them, but if you're part of the product development, I say job very well done. It's a boat to be proud of, for sure!
I got to tell you, I got a couple of the vertical stabilizers from the UL-19 to put on my DFVortex 34. Here's a pic..Attached FilesComment
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Very Impressed so far (except for a prop shaft flex cable separation) . To this point my BJ-29 V3 has been my favorite of my 7 boats but this one may just pass it. Great job Quality build really a nice package.Comment
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I'd say basically push the batteries ALL the way forward in the trays and run it. Ideally, the "correct" balance point should be about 1" aft of the sponson ride-surfaces, but I'm not sure that's achievable with the stock battery trays, and it'll likely be a little further aft.
Generally speaking... if the boat is flying off the water (speed dependent, obviously), then your balance point is too far aft, assuming correct strut position. IF it's running very wet (lots of weight on the nose) and not coming anywhere near getting loose, then move the batteries back to loosen up the front end (get more air under it).Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."Comment
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Well, you're limited somewhat on this boat do to the restrictive movement in the battery trays. Only so much wiggle room.
I'd say basically push the batteries ALL the way forward in the trays and run it. Ideally, the "correct" balance point should be about 1" aft of the sponson ride-surfaces, but I'm not sure that's achievable with the stock battery trays, and it'll likely be a little further aft.
Generally speaking... if the boat is flying off the water (speed dependent, obviously), then your balance point is too far aft, assuming correct strut position. IF it's running very wet (lots of weight on the nose) and not coming anywhere near getting loose, then move the batteries back to loosen up the front end (get more air under it).Comment
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