pursuit p mono build

[TheShaughnessy]

20141212_160043.jpg20141212_155931.jpg

OK here is my pursuit all stripped down and ready for an inlay. I was thinking about using the heavier tape to run the sides with. But first use the1k cloth to do everything except the sides and put the tape over its so there are no loose edges. Looking for opinions from more experienced cf people. This will be my second inlay.

[srislash]

Why not wrap the 1k right around to under the hatch lip. One piece is the best strength and you won't see your taped edges under the lip. Just make a paper template for the cloth pattern first. Oh yeah, just tape the edges where the pattern is with scotch tape and trim carefully.

You can see where their FG ends in this pic as well as my CF

image.jpg

[TheShaughnessy]

I don't know why, that's why I asked, I'll go ahead and set it up for a single piece. Should I go up the transom at all if I'm going to put a doubler on it?

[srislash]

If you are doubling it going up transom won't be necessary. It would really just be for look anyway really. I usually try to put the stitched end of the CF roll at transom for clean look.

[TheShaughnessy]

Here it is. I guess it came out ok. It should stiffen it up. Next step is going to be rails.

[srislash]

Looks real good. As far as stringers go, I am not sure what you are after but i did mine so they tied in the deck as well. You can check them out in the first couple pages here https://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ket-quot-build

Just shooting ideas your way Mike.

[TheShaughnessy]

Wish you wouldn't have done that. Now I have make bulk heads ha ha. Still tossing the idea of a wet well/ flooded stuffing tube. It didn't have it before and ran well , would also mean relocating holes for a strut instead of the stinger that was there. I was thinking just two g-10 rails starting at transom and running them about 12 inches. I think thats how long the sheet I have is. The paint is going to be an Uncle Don's hobbies theme.

[TheShaughnessy]

Ok pics are worth a thousand words right?

pic one is just to show the side and such.


pic 2 is to show how far up I went.

Pic 3 shows how thin the v is still. After the stringers/during the install I'm going to run a piece of that CF tape (it's like 2.8k and loOKs better then the 1k) up the middle and up the stringers a lil.

Pic 4 is the hardware and bits. I haven't decided strut or stinger yet, I'd have to make a standoff to use the strut I have. I'm probably gonna ditch that motor mount aND do something creative there. I want easy motor in and out capabilities. The recessed area on the water cooled mounts can be a nightmare.

Pic 5 shows the ride area is pretty true so not much work needed there, happy about that.

Input welcome
20141213_105932.jpg

[srislash]

Mine had those imperfections on the ride area just as yours. But then a hefty hook on the one side. Good you went that far forward, I wish I had gone a couple more inches. But how was I to know about that turn one buoy. I got a couple cracks from the batteries cramming forward.

[ray schrauwen]

I was going to make apost last night but, I didn't want to be all cocky or aything. I know you aren't a noobie builder but, I wanted to mention that when you do inlay in these monos i.e. Pursuit, Cyberstorm, DF33, etc... when the inlay cures it can 'pull' the vee a bit causing a cup or bow.

When I do a Cyberstorm this winter, I'll build a jig so when I do inlay I can sit the hull in a cradle and put weight on the inside of the hull to help keep the 'V' from deforming so there is less tuning needed on the bottom. Same can go for installing rails. I think you knew all this already

[photohoward1]

Why do Cyberstorms or DF need inlays.?


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[TheShaughnessy]

Ray that's a good point. I had considered doing that. When I did my geico I put a "jig" under the tunnel and stacked a few hundred pounds on top of it.

I considered doing something like that with this pursuit, but I didn't feel it was nessesarry since I felt the hull was fairly true and wouldn't need much if any blue printing..

I'm posting this to get feed back. As you can tell from the pics I'm not an inlay master. I jumped the gun on this one a litile probably, I should have had a mini roller or something. I'm sorta leaning away from the rollers cause I noticed they can pull up the fabric if you arent careful.
Peel ply saved me on this one, I had way too much resin but that stuff works great at wicking out resin. The hull still has some flex so I will likely do some sort of jig when I set the rails.

Should I use the .125 g 10 or the 3/16 stuff for the rails and transom?

@ howard, I don't know that they need an inlay, I've ran this very boat several times without the inlay.

I'm doing it to increase rigidity and I like they way it looks aesthetically. D

[photohoward1]

I have always built motor rails. That stiffens the hull. Doesn't inlay add a lot of weight?


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[TheShaughnessy]

Perhaps I just bought in to the carbon fiber fad. However after a bit of light sanding to prep the outside for paint and a bit more to clean up the inside and this thing (boat) was paper thin and had pin holes at the bottom of the V. If you look at the pics one shows how thin it still is.

The rails will add longitudinal stiffness. I layed the fibers straight so they will be more for horizontal rigidity. It is a light fabric and I did my best to keep resin to a min. The benefits of durability are worth the weight in my opinion.

The bottom of this hull had several stress cracks and you could actually see where the motor and servo were mounted. I didn't want to mount straight to the FG this time around. A customer gave me all this CF cloth and resin so I wanted to use it is another reason.

[TheShaughnessy]

Pic 1 is the transom , using a piece of 1\4" g-10 plate for a transom doubler.

Pic2/3 I'm thinking bigger fins then what I have. I have a set of throwing knives I might sacrifice so I can have stainless fins and get them nice and sharp. One set is a lil small and the other is too big and I like them too much to bucher em.

Pic 4 Found this foam ball in my garage after the inlay was done of course. One flex I attached the stub, the other came preassembled from OSE. I can spot the difference can you?

[properchopper]

shaft on bottom is the one you did

[TheShaughnessy]

You sir are correct. Couldn't seem to get rid of that gap.
I'll be using a motor mount inspired by one of your builds. Still have to create it.

[properchopper]

You sir are correct. Couldn't seem to get rid of that gap.
I'll be using a motor mount inspired by one of your builds. Still have to create it.

LMK if you need anything....

[srislash]

Pic 4 Found this foam ball in my garage after the inlay was done of course.

I use a foam ball like that mounted to a paint roller(small one) for squeezing epoxy in my inlay or FG needs. It works good for getting into tighter places and under decks.

[TheShaughnessy]

Thas why I put it up. I noticed it in your build thread.

[TheShaughnessy]

OK I've been tossing around motor mount options.

20141215_192007.jpg here is what I'd like to do. This is the header from a shower enclosure, I saved it cause the extrusion looked like it could come in useful. I was originally thinking sliding strut but I like what this could be. Mount the motor to the part that slides in and then I could add some bolts to keep it from moving
20141215_192057.jpgthis is to show what the extrusion looks like and show how the one piece slides into the other. There are brackets that slide in and lock with set screws for the opposite side of the header, the lower profile, lighter side. I may consider finding some of those to mount to. No spares of those were included.
20141215_192650.jpg here is a Lil sample after I cut off one side of the header so it will sit flat on the g-10
20141215_192931.jpg this is just a oil rubbed bronze piece of u channel. Its for 3\8 glass. I like it because of color. Could also make a plate that would slide in here.
20141215_193145.jpg this is another option that might actually be the best, it would be the lightest but still plenty strong.

[TheShaughnessy]

Here is what this stuff is used for/ where it came from. Not sure how pic got sideways.

[TheShaughnessy]

Here is my stainless fin I'll be trying out . it ended up a little bit longer then what was on there just not as wide . the blade tapers off more towards the tip compared to the fin that was on there before. I think that is good but

Is there a trick to drilling stainless steel? My 4" grinder made short work of the shank, but trying to drill a new hole was a PITA. Killed a few bits in the process.

[srislash]

I love the creative building. The fin looks great. I know there are special bits for stainless. I haven't tried any yet but I was told they were special cut or something. Ask at an auto or machine store.

[TheShaughnessy]

Ok I got the transom reinforced, it's bulletproof, at least for 22 rounds.

Decided not to use g-10 and try this stuff out I got with my composite care package. I believe it is divinycell based on what I found on the Internet and what I think I was told.
It was pretty thick stuff but it's paper light. Basically a cost effective alternative to honycomb.

I made a paper template transfered it to the divinycell (what I'm referring to it as until corrected) it cuts real easy with a razor blade. Then I cut a price of the 1k to match.

I'm going to have to try the spray adhesive method one of these times. Not terribly happy with how the cf has been turning out. It's decent I just know it could/should be better.

So I wetted out the transom and the first piece of 1k. Then layer in the 1k, next I wet out the divinycell on both sides. Set that in place then used the tape to cap it all in.

Here is where I went wrong I think, after stippling in the cf tape I didn't do anything to remove the excess resin, thought it would press out.

So what I did was put release film, then a paper towel (was supposed to absorb excess resin but didn't really work.) Then I put that piece of 1/4 inch mirror and clamped it all down. Set it by a space heater for 20 or so min and then left it.

When I went to take out the mirror piece it was stuck so I had to drill from the other side to pop it loose. The resin did get squeezed out but only to the release film, I sanded down the build up but it still isn't amazing. I wish I at least wish I would have lined up the fibers better. They kinda look like they sag in the middle.

Next up is stringers and motor mount.

[tlandauer]

Following your build, looks great! Man, those turn fins are killers. Should dub your boat the "Tactical Blade P-Mono"!
I don't think your CF layer looks shabby at all.
That honeycomb stuff, I have a question: I know they are pretty strong considering how light they are, but when you saturate the area does the epoxy penetrate into the inside of the honeycomb? I have one sheet but thought that if you bend it, it can collapse just like corrugated card board box?

[TheShaughnessy]

I'm not sure I'm qualified to answer that, but I don't believe the honeycomb is suppose to be full of resin,just enough to stick a lamination to it.

I saturated both sides of the piece I used, which is not actually honeycomb, because I didn't want it to absorb any water

[tlandauer]

Thanks, I just wasn't sure how to properly use that material.

[TheShaughnessy]

Putting the motor at the rear can really make it difficult to get the bolts started and tight.

I decided to go with the sliding motor mount. It will lock in to place with a couple of bolts from the top.

Gonna have to come up with a shape for the rails. They are too tall right now to run the full length.

[srislash]

Putting the motor at the rear can really make it difficult to get the bolts started and tight.

I decided to go with the sliding motor mount. It will lock in to place with a couple of bolts from the top.

Gonna have to come up with a shape for the rails. They are too tall right now to run the full length.

Now speaking from experience, this is a brilliant idea. Easy removal would be nice.