TP Power- New style

[Basstronics]

Earlier this summer I lost a Leopard motor and I decided to replace it with a TP Power.

In the past I have torn down a TP Power and a Leopard to look at manufacturing qualities. I noted back then that the TP Power had a much better build quality than the Leopard. However this review is about the new style motors and is much less favorable.

First impression out of the box is good. Motor looks solid, nice wire wrap over the heat shrink. Again these are magnet wire armature leads right off the coil- THESE ARE NOT WIRE!

For boating applications it is necessary to remove the stickers to install a good water jacket. I also like to coat it in Corrosion X. So upon removing the stickers the first thing I notice is one of three set screws is missing. I put my wrench into one of the sockets and just the pressure from inserting it the set screw fell right out. Same thing with the next hole. Matter of fact is ALL THREE HOLES ARE STRIPPED. The ONLY thing holding the endbell on was whatever glue they used...






So I get it out, pull the rotor out. Previously they used a kevlar wrap over the rotors- now they use carbon. While I have not confirmed it the magnets seemed to be weaker than the previous TP Power I had apart (One day I will get a gauss on these things!).



Next I look at the laminated stack the wire wraps around. Previous TP design the stacks appeared to be ID ground for a tighter clearance. This motor IS NOT. the workmanship on this end seems to be on par with Leopard. I dont see anything that sticks out as extraordinary or bad here.

So now Im to the point where I will have to redrill & tap the endbell. Instead of using the set screws I intend to install socket head cap screws. After fixing this I will coat in Corrosion X. Reassemble then I might try to run it this year still!

[Basstronics]

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...opard+tp+power

Previous initial review of a Leopard Vs TP Power (old style now).

[Basstronics]

TP Power can coolers.

I got one and installed it on a brand new TP Power motor. Their design utilizes the small diameter O-rings so there is not a large cross section. This also means the thickness of the water allowed to contact the motor is very thin. Another thing worthy to think about is if the distance between can O.D. and cooler I.D. is very narrow there will probably be some water flow restriction.

The cooler fit on the loose side. Granted it was oiled to slide on but it just felt to loose and sloppy. After a good run and getting this hot she was still loose. I also had more water inside the hull then I like to have. I noticed the screws on the motor end bell rusted- the screw on the very bottom. This leads me to think the water jacket was leaking.

Needless to say Im NOT a fan of these water jackets and wont use these again unless the design changes.

[Peter A]

I recently got a TP Power 4050 7D (2200kv). The motor looks great, but the o rings supplied with the cooler were too small in section diameter and slipped straight off the can. I managed to get some bigger o rings that worked great. However this 2200kv motor does not seem as fast as the 2200kv Turigy Aquastar motor it replaced. More testing is needed but I am wondering if I shouldn't have just got another aquastar for about half the price!

[properchopper]

I recently got a TP 4083 2040 kv D-wind motor to test. The TP jacket was real short. I fitted a Leo 4082 68mm jacket and it fit nice and tight. Will test at the lake this week.

DSC04862.JPG

[ezhitz]

I was thinking of trying a TP motor for P hydro now I wonder if this is what the quality of there other motors will be like.

[twissted]

I bought the water jacket from tppowerusa and they fit my motors from HK, that my Leopard water jackets wouldn't. Now that they are on the motor (super tight) they look great. here is what it looks like. I plan on running these on 8s.
29357.jpgcj29s-800x600.jpg004.JPG005.JPG
theses are 1200kv motors can size is a true 40mm length is 74mm. I want to run some 5017/3 props in my Zonda cat.

[smileday]

Thank you for pointing out this. I think this is because the diameter of our can has been changed from 40mm to 39.5 mm (in order to match to the ducted fan we are going to develop for 90 mm EDF jets), but the O-ring has not been changed in the original package. I will keep this in mind and reflect to the factory. Maybe we should ask them to install the water cooling jackets for customers directly to ensure everything work.

TP Power can coolers.

I got one and installed it on a brand new TP Power motor. Their design utilizes the small diameter O-rings so there is not a large cross section. This also means the thickness of the water allowed to contact the motor is very thin. Another thing worthy to think about is if the distance between can O.D. and cooler I.D. is very narrow there will probably be some water flow restriction.

The cooler fit on the loose side. Granted it was oiled to slide on but it just felt to loose and sloppy. After a good run and getting this hot she was still loose. I also had more water inside the hull then I like to have. I noticed the screws on the motor end bell rusted- the screw on the very bottom. This leads me to think the water jacket was leaking.

Needless to say Im NOT a fan of these water jackets and wont use these again unless the design changes.

[smileday]

Hi Peter A,

Which version of TP 4050 7D did you get? For the old-version, TP 4050 7D is 1850 KV as shown here:

http://tppower.com/sort.asp?class_id=4&news=23

For the new-version, TP 4050 7D is 1730 KV as shown here:

http://www.tppowerusa.com/motors/build-your-own/tp-40xx-series/tp-4050

Neither version should be 2200 KV for 7D.

If you are talking about TP 4050 6D, then I kind of understand. The old version TP 4050 6D is 2200 KV. That may be because some of our distributors has not updated the data online, so you may get a new version 6D (2010 KV) when you thought you are getting a 2200 one (old version).

Sorry for the confusion. Do you have a tool to measure the real KV of the motor you got?


QUOTE=Peter A;527276]I recently got a TP Power 4050 7D (2200kv). The motor looks great, but the o rings supplied with the cooler were too small in section diameter and slipped straight off the can. I managed to get some bigger o rings that worked great. However this 2200kv motor does not seem as fast as the 2200kv Turigy Aquastar motor it replaced. More testing is needed but I am wondering if I shouldn't have just got another aquastar for about half the price![/QUOTE]

[Mike Caruso]

I recently got a TP 4083 2040 kv D-wind motor to test. The TP jacket was real short. I fitted a Leo 4082 68mm jacket and it fit nice and tight. Will test at the lake this week.

[ATTACH=CONFIG]105320[/ATTACH]

Tony you dog.....such nice clean work. I like the way that you make everything look like it belongs there in that place. Something I try and do but have to start over many times Ha. The more layouts you do the better you get keep up with pictures please. You have saved me First with the HF 1/2 belt sander for props. My old hands thank you and I did borrow a few ideas from your setups.

[Mike Caruso]

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...opard+tp+power

Previous initial review of a Leopard Vs TP Power (old style now).

Nice inspection job thanks for sharing

[smileday]

Hello Basstronic,

Thank you for your interest in studying our motor. I have contacted our engineer about the new design. Basically the new design is a fully upgrade over the original race-proven version. Here is the detailed response.

1, about the rotor, we actually add another layer of carbon tow over the Kevlar. It ensures a smoother finish with extra strength. This design also features a better tension at higher temperature, because of the negative thermal expansion of the carbon fiber. You are welcome to test the maximum RPM of TP power motors. We ensure they can reach the specs. for all the series, including the big 56/58 series at 50k RPM. The new design adds extra protection when you push our motors to extreme.

2, We always use the precise cut laminate for the stator manufacturing. Both the new and old version come form the same mold. The internal diameter is the same, as well as the rotor diameter. Their dimensions are designed with computer simulation for best efficiencies.

3, All the magnets we use are of the highest temperature grade and the strengths are as good as the old version if not better.

4, We apologize for the screw problem. You can send an email for RMA and we can repairs it under warranty. Actually endbell is glued on with enough strength and these screws are just for extra precaution.

The major advantage of the new design is the one piece can. It ensures the tightest tolerance of the machining for smooth operation. It also reduces the weight which is critical for demanding races.

Sorry for the late response because we just saw this thread. For any questions regarding our product, you can reach us faster by sending an email.

Earlier this summer I lost a Leopard motor and I decided to replace it with a TP Power.

In the past I have torn down a TP Power and a Leopard to look at manufacturing qualities. I noted back then that the TP Power had a much better build quality than the Leopard. However this review is about the new style motors and is much less favorable.

First impression out of the box is good. Motor looks solid, nice wire wrap over the heat shrink. Again these are magnet wire armature leads right off the coil- THESE ARE NOT WIRE!

For boating applications it is necessary to remove the stickers to install a good water jacket. I also like to coat it in Corrosion X. So upon removing the stickers the first thing I notice is one of three set screws is missing. I put my wrench into one of the sockets and just the pressure from inserting it the set screw fell right out. Same thing with the next hole. Matter of fact is ALL THREE HOLES ARE STRIPPED. The ONLY thing holding the endbell on was whatever glue they used...






So I get it out, pull the rotor out. Previously they used a kevlar wrap over the rotors- now they use carbon. While I have not confirmed it the magnets seemed to be weaker than the previous TP Power I had apart (One day I will get a gauss on these things!).



Next I look at the laminated stack the wire wraps around. Previous TP design the stacks appeared to be ID ground for a tighter clearance. This motor IS NOT. the workmanship on this end seems to be on par with Leopard. I dont see anything that sticks out as extraordinary or bad here.

So now Im to the point where I will have to redrill & tap the endbell. Instead of using the set screws I intend to install socket head cap screws. After fixing this I will coat in Corrosion X. Reassemble then I might try to run it this year still!

[lenny]

Hey Ryan.
I got the 4050 6d 2200kv motor & jacket and I see what you mean about the jacket fitting loose,
Also I did a bench test with the motor on 4s and it sounds like it misfires sometimes to me but not sure what to call it.
What should the timing be set at for this motor ?
I hand the esc already programed at 15* for the 4072 1800kv leopard when I was testing the TP 4050 6D 2200KV on the bench.

Also is this the same motor you took apart that I have now ?
And if so are the endbell set screws ok on it now ?
I did not try to remove them yet,
But I saw you said you I intended to install socket head cap screws to fix the problem.
But these just look like stock set screws in it to me.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...opard+tp+power


Thanks for any info.

TP Power can coolers.

I got one and installed it on a brand new TP Power motor. Their design utilizes the small diameter O-rings so there is not a large cross section. This also means the thickness of the water allowed to contact the motor is very thin. Another thing worthy to think about is if the distance between can O.D. and cooler I.D. is very narrow there will probably be some water flow restriction.

The cooler fit on the loose side. Granted it was oiled to slide on but it just felt to loose and sloppy. After a good run and getting this hot she was still loose. I also had more water inside the hull then I like to have. I noticed the screws on the motor end bell rusted- the screw on the very bottom. This leads me to think the water jacket was leaking.

Needless to say Im NOT a fan of these water jackets and wont use these again unless the design changes.

[lenny]

Hi smileday,

So what is covered under RMA for these motors,
And also how does it work for the customer with shipping and handling and repairs if needed ?
Like the old 4050 6D 2200KV version motor that I have.

Thanks for any info on this matter.


4, We apologize for the screw problem. You can send an email for RMA and we can repairs it under warranty. Actually endbell is glued on with enough strength and these screws are just for extra precaution.

Hi Peter A,

Which version of TP 4050 7D did you get? For the old-version, TP 4050 7D is 1850 KV as shown here:

http://tppower.com/sort.asp?class_id=4&news=23

For the new-version, TP 4050 7D is 1730 KV as shown here:

http://www.tppowerusa.com/motors/build-your-own/tp-40xx-series/tp-4050

Neither version should be 2200 KV for 7D.

If you are talking about TP 4050 6D, then I kind of understand. The old version TP 4050 6D is 2200 KV. That may be because some of our distributors has not updated the data online, so you may get a new version 6D (2010 KV) when you thought you are getting a 2200 one (old version).

Sorry for the confusion. Do you have a tool to measure the real KV of the motor you got?


QUOTE=Peter A;527276]I recently got a TP Power 4050 7D (2200kv). The motor looks great, but the o rings supplied with the cooler were too small in section diameter and slipped straight off the can. I managed to get some bigger o rings that worked great. However this 2200kv motor does not seem as fast as the 2200kv Turigy Aquastar motor it replaced. More testing is needed but I am wondering if I shouldn't have just got another aquastar for about half the price!

[/QUOTE]

[Basstronics]

Lenny,

That is the motor I previously had apart and my previous comparison- not the one subject to this review. It sounded great on my bench- I believe its a D wind motor.

Note that since its the previous style motor it should snug up after use (gets warm, oil is removed from can-etc).

While I would NEVER purposely sell something thats bad without disclosing it- it has been a bit since I benched the motor. Also I sent this out to nitronuts who never used it just installed it. Only thing I can think of is if a solder joint might not be good or corrosion? Might be worth a quick look. If it indeed is bad send it back and I can send yours back of buy it or whatever you want to do. I dont want anyone unhappy.