swordfish plus with data logging

[drwayne]

So if i want to 2p i solder the 2 leads together and then use a "y" connector on each lead? I cannot use a single battery per lead and get 2p correct? Just want to understand this correctly...

Brushless are you doing this without soldering the leads together? I totally suck with wiring and i am surprised i have gotten this far with some big voltage setups without killing myself lol

Both input reds must be hard connected, ditto the 2 blacks.
To those joins you connect the battery final leads.
I cut 40mm from one red, and then spliced/soldered it onto the other longer red
ditto the negatives
esc+++++++join+
esc+++++++join++++++++++++[plug to battery]

The manual in pdf I posted above shows this at bottom right of doc.


If you consider your soldering/wiring below average, dont try this yourself..get a competent person to do it for you..the headaches avoided are well worth the slight swallwing of pride for 5 mins ..

[Brushless55]

So if i want to 2p i solder the 2 leads together and then use a "y" connector on each lead? I cannot use a single battery per lead and get 2p correct? Just want to understand this correctly...

Brushless are you doing this without soldering the leads together? I totally suck with wiring and i am surprised i have gotten this far with some big voltage setups without killing myself lol

I'm trying to figure out how to draw something up on my computer to show what I will do..
but yeah, I will have a bullet on each esc wire and a jumper half way down the wire.. kinda like a H pattern...


H H so kinda like the bullets up on top of the wire, and the bottom goes to the esc if that paints a picture in your head...

[bill34207]

Here's a "real time" look at the new 300 since mine arrived today. It's BIG and wonder if some of the length is caps hidden inside the aluminum case. I'm not going to take it apart to see though.

Not real crazy about the wiring layout but will deal with it. They want you to combine the two +'s into a single and the two -'s into another single then branch them back out into a parallel to run to the batts. With them coming out the bottom side of the controller, it's going to make it really tempting to install it label side down as well.


PS, the software is compatible with Win 7 and backwards. I didn't try to load it off the cd as it was quicker to copy the 2 files to my local drive before starting it. Mine didn't find/install the drivers until I plugged the dongle in though. The Y adapter for the dongle was missing in mine, too. Not a big deal since I already had one from the 240.
Even though the quick start shows powering it with a battery the Y will still work to read and set it up on your pc with no battery attached.

[pfish]

I Just purchased this and I'm trying to figure out what hardware to use to connect these leads and then to the batteries in a clean fashion. Fallowing along.

[bill34207]

I Just purchased this and I'm trying to figure out what hardware to use to connect these leads and then to the batteries in a clean fashion. Fallowing along.

Just spotted your post. I won't swear to it being the correct way but here's what I did. 1st I heated and flattened out the leads from the esc. I had some 6 ga. wire laying around so cut a couple of 2" pieces of it. after tinning the wires with silver bearing solder squeezed them flat as well. Using a pair of vice grips, I sandwiched the single wire between the two from the esc and soldered them together with a 80 watt iron (again using silver bearing solder as it has a higher melting temp than conventional solder). Next step was to install 8mm bullets on the wires with matching 8mm bullets soldered to the 10 ga. wires that will run to the battery packs.
Keep in mind that the total wire length should not exceed 10" per the manual.

[drwayne]

deleted.

burn and learn, people.

[pfish]

Thanks, everyone got it set up and working.

[ray schrauwen]

(again using silver bearing solder as it has a higher melting temp than conventional solder). .

Exactly what solder do you use?

Why would you need high temp solder? If the joint is done well as it looks, no extra temp solder needed.

Did you really expect to see the solder joint jump to melting point temps? If so, you have a very poor joint or problems elsewhere.

I know other guys using silver solder, Staybright to be exact and I wonder if they know what they are doing when using such products since they are not made for electronics and can increase electrical resistance...

Not saying you use this type, just letting people knwo what is and is not totally necessary.

[bill34207]

I use the Novak brand Ray. It's only 3% silver and has a rosen core for electronics. It has eliminated bullets un soldering themselves in my higher amp applications. As a note, I don't make cold solder joints either. I tend to use a little butane torch for soldering bullets to the wires.
I do occasionally use the Staybright brand, but that's for the ends of flex cables or if I'm stepping down a stuffing tube.

[ray schrauwen]

Good stuff! Pricey but, good solder.

I'd like a 200 W/logging.... no doubt they are B/O !

[drkdgglr]

Here's how I soldered mine, keeping the battery leads as short as possible. Next I will be adding the cap bank.
I have already run the esc twice (in the boat in my sig). It did pretty well considering it didn't run hot and the first time the prop got caught in a bunch of weed and the second time all the grease from the flex cable had disappeared.

[Brushless55]

Nice job!

[Brushless55]

I use the Novak brand Ray. It's only 3% silver and has a rosen core for electronics. It has eliminated bullets un soldering themselves in my higher amp applications. As a note, I don't make cold solder joints either. I tend to use a little butane torch for soldering bullets to the wires.
I do occasionally use the Staybright brand, but that's for the ends of flex cables or if I'm stepping down a stuffing tube.

does the 60/40 Rosin-Core from Radio Shack work for high amp like this?
thanks

[ray schrauwen]

High amp or low amp it does not matter really as long as you use good amount of solder without overdoing it. Good flux is as or more important than the solder ratio or formula. The 60/40 you have will do. It has it's own flux but, investing in proper good electrical flux is a good idea. I'm about to get a tub of flux like my buddy has even though I use some damn fine solder:

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Multicore-5-Rosin-Resin-Core-Solder-SN60-063-1-62mm-wrap3-1-lb-Pound-Roll-/160793045028?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2570032824

If you are in need of high temp solder because solder joints are melting on esc or elsewhere, there is something else very wrong with your setup or cooling system.