Tweet
I once talked to Jim over the phone about a prop for my Raptor Rigger. The man sounds very knowledgeable and told me alot about proper setup being MOST important (more important than custom cupping). He also told me how to harden his ABC props.
Clean Prop
Heat prop in oven on 4" x 4" copper plate @350 degrees for 20 minutes
Ramp up heat to 600 degrees for 40 minutes
Remove then air cool prop on seperate cool 4" x 4" copper plate with drive hub facing downward toward plate
You can purchase 1/8" Copper plate at Mcmaster.com. I purchased a 4" x 12" piece. I will cut this into three 4" x 4" pieces. Part number 8964K412
.........................
I copied and pasted this post from another forum. Jim @ ABC telling how to harden his props:
On Our Alloy
We DE-STRESS at 340F for 20Min (VERY IMPORTANT)
Then re ramp the temp to 594-608F at a rate of 28.8' F per min
We hold for 40 min to 1.5hrs depending on the prop
We then AIR COOL at room temp on a cool copper plate
Drawing the heat out of the drive side of the hub.
The prop must be CLEAN
Fingerprint oil can even cause hot-spots
The blades must not touch anything during heat up or cool down.
Final sharpening is done after.
Higher temps and longer time seam to have little effects.
Salt or Lead bath Heat-Treat is a + if one can control the temp within 0.5'F
The lower the BE content the Higher the Temp and Time
Our Alloy can and has Been Treated to a Rc45 in production apps.by other Co.
The Major proplem I see with breakage is do to
Thinning
Bar-Cutting
Back-Cutting
Prop-Racing
Other prop Cuts are far more effective
Proper Sizing and strut placement of Props seems to still be the major problem.
Changing from a Copper Alloy to a Stainless Alloy only cures one problem.
THE BOATER STILL DOES NOT KNOW HOW TO WORK THE PROP AND SET STRUT HEIGHT AND ANGLE.
All Manu. work very hard to let the average boater go faster.
Set up is still the major factor.
By the way
Jerry at Seaducer set the records with Our Alloy
NONE WERE HEAT-TREATED.
Proper Sizing and Set-up was the KEY.
THE MAN CAN GO FAST.
The Black Magic of Props
Go Fast
Jim
.......................
Clean Prop
Heat prop in oven on 4" x 4" copper plate @350 degrees for 20 minutes
Ramp up heat to 600 degrees for 40 minutes
Remove then air cool prop on seperate cool 4" x 4" copper plate with drive hub facing downward toward plate
You can purchase 1/8" Copper plate at Mcmaster.com. I purchased a 4" x 12" piece. I will cut this into three 4" x 4" pieces. Part number 8964K412
.........................
I copied and pasted this post from another forum. Jim @ ABC telling how to harden his props:
On Our Alloy
We DE-STRESS at 340F for 20Min (VERY IMPORTANT)
Then re ramp the temp to 594-608F at a rate of 28.8' F per min
We hold for 40 min to 1.5hrs depending on the prop
We then AIR COOL at room temp on a cool copper plate
Drawing the heat out of the drive side of the hub.
The prop must be CLEAN
Fingerprint oil can even cause hot-spots
The blades must not touch anything during heat up or cool down.
Final sharpening is done after.
Higher temps and longer time seam to have little effects.
Salt or Lead bath Heat-Treat is a + if one can control the temp within 0.5'F
The lower the BE content the Higher the Temp and Time
Our Alloy can and has Been Treated to a Rc45 in production apps.by other Co.
The Major proplem I see with breakage is do to
Thinning
Bar-Cutting
Back-Cutting
Prop-Racing
Other prop Cuts are far more effective
Proper Sizing and strut placement of Props seems to still be the major problem.
Changing from a Copper Alloy to a Stainless Alloy only cures one problem.
THE BOATER STILL DOES NOT KNOW HOW TO WORK THE PROP AND SET STRUT HEIGHT AND ANGLE.
All Manu. work very hard to let the average boater go faster.
Set up is still the major factor.
By the way
Jerry at Seaducer set the records with Our Alloy
NONE WERE HEAT-TREATED.
Proper Sizing and Set-up was the KEY.
THE MAN CAN GO FAST.
The Black Magic of Props
Go Fast
Jim
.......................
Comment