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Fightercat Daytona 37" Fiberglass hull w/Carbon inlay and Mounts
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The complete list (minus electronics) that I can think of right now, to get this hull water-ready, is:
- stingers and shims (I do have the set of 3/16 flex-shafts that were used in the original build and they'll be included)
- teflon stuffing tube liners
- seal up the six small holes in the floor of the tunnel where the ESC cover used to be screwed down
Beyond that, it's ready to go if you just want to tape the hatch down. Otherwise, it needs some new bolts/fasteners and holes drilled to use hatch bolts. Oh, and you'll need some large cooling lines to run from the rudder through the transom. I may have some from Kintec, but it's red. Not sure what color you want. Also, I can fill the holes in the tunnel if you want. Up to you. I'm going to go ahead and drill the holes in the servo mount and get some stainless screws in there, just because it's bugging me to leave it unfinished with the servo loose.Last edited by lt130th; 01-28-2017, 08:06 PM.Comment
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I've never had a Zonda/Fantasm so I won't be able to give a comparison. The fiberglass layup on this hull doesn't feel thin. I had a Venom King of Shaves P1 mono, and THAT hull was paper thin. It would flex with pressure from your thumbs/fingers. This hull is much more "stiff/firm" than that. I also have one of Hobby King's 36" Flowmaster twin cat's and this Fightercat hull is thicker than that one. I'm about to put up five other hulls for sale because they've been sitting in boxes, like this one. I was really hoping to sell them in the condition they are in, because I don't have the time to work on them anymore. For example, a couple days ago I bought the stainless screws for mounting the servo in the tray on this hull and I have not had time to grab my Dremel and simply make four screw-holes in the carbon plate. The holes are even marked already. I just have to tape to catch the dust, drill and then drive in four little screws, but I haven't been able to get to it, yet.Comment
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Maybe I should install the drives, then. The shims are required for the 110mm stingers used on this hull. They were about $7 on the Fightercat website. I'm looking for a pair now. If I install the stingers, do you just want me to order them and add the cost to the price? I'll order them from wherever you would like. I'll also look up the correct Teflon liners for the flex shafts & order it, along with the correct diameter cooling lines for the rudder, at the same time if that's what you would like. Let me know what you think & I'll let you know when I find a pair of the shims.Comment
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Maybe I should install the drives, then. The shims are required for the 110mm stingers used on this hull. They were about $7 on the Fightercat website. I'm looking for a pair now. If I install the stingers, do you just want me to order them and add the cost to the price? I'll order them from wherever you would like. I'll also look up the correct Teflon liners for the flex shafts & order it, along with the correct diameter cooling lines for the rudder, at the same time if that's what you would like. Let me know what you think & I'll let you know when I find a pair of the shims.Comment
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So I may have the shims and stingers for this hull later this week. They were very generously donated by a fellow OSE member, so, MUCH thanks goes to him. That leaves Teflon flex-shaft liners, and rudder cooling lines to ready this hull for electronics.Comment
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Thanks,
Michael P.Comment
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Allright, I have the six little holes in the tunnel (from the old ESC cover bolts) filled/epoxied. The four holes are drilled in the servo tray for the servo screws. I'll plug the servo in, get it back to zero and then mount it in the tray. The Teflon liner for these stuffing tubes can be found here on OSE or at Kintec. If you search the OSE store for "oct-teflon-24" you'll want the .187 liner. At Kintecracing.com, the liner is under "Building Supplies" -> "Brass Tubes" and the .187 liner is the 5th item on the page. Also, the cooling line to run from the rudder through the aluminum trim rings on the transom is the "4mm inside diameter and 8mm outside diameter" stuff under "Water Cooling" at Kintecracing.com. I'll post some pictures as soon as I have the drives mounted. Will be late Friday night. Any questions, feel free to ask.
Thanks,
Michael P.Comment
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Allright, I have the six little holes in the tunnel (from the old ESC cover bolts) filled/epoxied. The four holes are drilled in the servo tray for the servo screws. I'll plug the servo in, get it back to zero and then mount it in the tray. The Teflon liner for these stuffing tubes can be found here on OSE or at Kintec. If you search the OSE store for "oct-teflon-24" you'll want the .187 liner. At Kintecracing.com, the liner is under "Building Supplies" -> "Brass Tubes" and the .187 liner is the 5th item on the page. Also, the cooling line to run from the rudder through the aluminum trim rings on the transom is the "4mm inside diameter and 8mm outside diameter" stuff under "Water Cooling" at Kintecracing.com. I'll post some pictures as soon as I have the drives mounted. Will be late Friday night. Any questions, feel free to ask.
Thanks,
Michael P.Comment
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