F/S 1/10 Scale 8255 hull. Special build.

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  • raptor347
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Jul 2007
    • 1089

    #1

    F/S 1/10 Scale 8255 hull. Special build.

    I had molded this one up for myself. The hull is incredibly stiff while maintaining it's light weight. It's 2Lb 12oz with cowl and rear hatch, but the canoe decks won't flex at all. The hull is all vacuum bagged epoxy/carbon with Soric honeycomb core material in the canoe decks, ride surfaces and tunnel. The cowl is epoxy/fiberglass so you can run an antenna inside. I threw just about every trick I know at the construction of this hull.

    Ready for prep, paint, hardware and scale detail.

    The two finished boats in the first pic are John Earnest's 2012 FE Nats concourse winning '82 Oberto and Lohring Miller's '82 Executone. Both built from this hull. Just examples of how this boat builds up. The rest of the pictures are the actual hull for sale.

    I don't build many of these. If you're into 1/10 scale and want a rare boat that can run as good as it looks, don't miss this one.

    PM for my phone number if you have detailed questions.

    I have a set of red/yellow '83 Speedy Printing graphics from Mike McKnight that could be had for an additional cost.

    $450 shipped in the lower 48.DSC_3603.jpgDSCF6710.jpgDSCF6705.jpgDSCF6702.jpgDSCF6707.jpg
    Brian "Snowman" Buaas
    Team Castle Creations
    NAMBA FE Chairman
  • lewis6669
    Junior Member
    • Feb 2013
    • 24

    #2
    I'll take the hull. How much for the graphics?
    Bruce

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    • lewis6669
      Junior Member
      • Feb 2013
      • 24

      #3
      Pm sent

      Comment

      • raptor347
        Fast Electric Addict!
        • Jul 2007
        • 1089

        #4
        My phone is in your PM box.
        Brian "Snowman" Buaas
        Team Castle Creations
        NAMBA FE Chairman

        Comment

        • lewis6669
          Junior Member
          • Feb 2013
          • 24

          #5
          Been out of town for my grandaughters 3 day volleyball tournament. Will call Monday. THANKS
          Bruce

          Comment

          • NativePaul
            Greased Weasel
            • Feb 2008
            • 2761

            #6
            Hi Brian, sorry to pollute your for sale thread but it looks to be sold now so I hope you don't mind me asking here. How do you lay up at home using honeycomb and vacuum? Do you have an autoclave and use prepreg? I have wanted to try a honeycomb structure but don't see an easy way to do it so have stuck to foam or end grain balsa cores thus far. I have vacuum but not autoclave.

            I see 2 problems, one being as you vacuum the resin out of the cloth the honeycomb provides a nice void for it to go into rather than going through your peelply/perforated release film into the wicking layer as it would with a solid core, how do you stop this happening?
            The other issue I see is that for maximum strength the top layer needs to be flat (or smoothly curved parallel to the bottom/mold), how do you avoid the vacuum pulling the cloth down in the hexagons between honeycomb walls and keep the top layer flat?

            Do you lay the bottom up as normal vacuum it and when it is only partially cured apply the honeycomb to your first layup, and vacuum a separate sheet of carbon but only with a partial cure then transfer that to the honeycomb, so both carbon layers have as much resin sucked out as is practical away from the honeycomb and then only a very light vacuum is applied to all 3 layers, just enough to keep them in contact with each other while the resin fully cures but not enough to give the starved horse effect between the honeycomb walls.
            Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.

            Comment

            • raptor347
              Fast Electric Addict!
              • Jul 2007
              • 1089

              #7
              Paul,
              No problem. Follow this link: http://www.lantor.nl/index.php/id_st...599/soric.html

              You've made some assumptions on material characteristics that aren't correct. Order some, you'll love it. http://www.acpsales.com/Aero-Mat.html
              Brian "Snowman" Buaas
              Team Castle Creations
              NAMBA FE Chairman

              Comment

              • NativePaul
                Greased Weasel
                • Feb 2008
                • 2761

                #8
                Indeed I have, I was thinking the honeycomb would be aluminium foil, I had no idea that there was any other type, the stuff you linked to solves both the problems that worried me, if I can find some in the UK I will try it for sure.
                Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.

                Comment

                • raptor347
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Jul 2007
                  • 1089

                  #9
                  I believe it's a European product. Shouldn't be too hard to find over there. It's very nice to work with.
                  Brian "Snowman" Buaas
                  Team Castle Creations
                  NAMBA FE Chairman

                  Comment

                  • NativePaul
                    Greased Weasel
                    • Feb 2008
                    • 2761

                    #10
                    It was quite hard to find here, but I did find some and got some Soric XF in 2mm. As a trial I laid up a sheet with 200g carbon a sheet of 2mm XF and a sheet of 200g carbon, it is impressively stiff for its weight and I will use it for bulkheads etc, but I did get some minor print through from the hexagons, no big deal for bulkheads and the like, but it would be enough to stop me using it for ride plates or cosmetic surfaces.

                    Do you lay and vacuum a base layer, wait for a full cure, then lay the Soric and backing layer on top of the cured base layer and vacuum it all together?

                    Paul.
                    Paul Upton-Taylor, Greased Weasel Racing.

                    Comment

                    • raptor347
                      Fast Electric Addict!
                      • Jul 2007
                      • 1089

                      #11
                      My usual practice is:

                      Prime mold
                      Light cloth
                      Carbon
                      Soric
                      Carbon


                      Lots of vacuum for 24 hours with and elevated post cure before demolding the part.

                      Ride surfaces get an extra outer layer of carbon.
                      Brian "Snowman" Buaas
                      Team Castle Creations
                      NAMBA FE Chairman

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