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I broke the hatch and got one from Scott, Tiqueman. Since it was white and I didn't want to deal with matching the stock color, I went with Createx Colors Pearlized Green.http://www.createxcolors.com/product...lors/main.html Since the color almost matches the "Castle Green" I was going to put a Castle logo on the beck and a "mamba" type snake/lighting bolt down each side. All it really needs is vinyl over the windshield and ducts to finish off the boat.
PAINT/HULL:
Since I was going to paint the hull I leveled the ride pads and added under hull water pick ups. I then primered it using Diplicolor automotive primer. I then shot 3 coats of paint which was a total of 8 ounces of paint. After that dried for 2 days in the sun I shot it with 2 coats of Duplicolor automotive clear. Let that dry for 2 more days them waxed the hull with Adams Buttery wax. I removed the wax with Adams detail spray(auto detailing is another hobby of mine). I ran several tape tests using 3M electrical tape, which is what I always use to tape my hulls, and the paint has not budged. The fiberglass lid has 2 strips of foam so it floats and it also pushes against the inner lid to ensure it doesn't come open when taped down.
BOAT:
I ripped out all the wood, laid down a layer of glass with wise across the hull including over the lowered battery trays. After that dried, I laid another layer down the center of the boat, in between the sponsons, to mount the motor over. I made the motor mount since I run an outrunner, but you can fit a 3656(stock spec motor) with no rear motor support. The side rails are stainless steel. If you want to use a 74mm long motor you will need to support the rear of the motor. I will include an orange 36mm or 40mm rear motor support ring but you will have to make the side rails to accept the rear support. It will include the stock 40MM prop.
ELECTRONICS
The only electronics included will be the servo. I can include the out runner for an extra $40. I have ran the Castle motor with the stock 45A ESC, a Turnigy 60A ESC and finally the T-180 so I could run large props. It's very efficient and has a very low amp draw when run with a prop 42mm or smaller.THE T-180 ESC PICTURED IS DEAD. The ESC just beeps as if it has no radio signal sometimes and when it runs it runs as if LVC has kicked in, even with an external power source.
ASKING PRICE
Asking $OLD + actual shipped and Paypal fees for hull with FG lid, stock under cover, hardware, and servo. I can include the 3424 Castle 1800KV out runner for an extra $40. It will be shipped in the factory box, with boat stand pictured, and will be insured for the price payed. I will not sell motor without the hull and if only the hull is sold I will keep the motor
Last video of boat before paint:
Call dibs if you want it but the boat is not sold until I say it is!!
PAINT/HULL:
Since I was going to paint the hull I leveled the ride pads and added under hull water pick ups. I then primered it using Diplicolor automotive primer. I then shot 3 coats of paint which was a total of 8 ounces of paint. After that dried for 2 days in the sun I shot it with 2 coats of Duplicolor automotive clear. Let that dry for 2 more days them waxed the hull with Adams Buttery wax. I removed the wax with Adams detail spray(auto detailing is another hobby of mine). I ran several tape tests using 3M electrical tape, which is what I always use to tape my hulls, and the paint has not budged. The fiberglass lid has 2 strips of foam so it floats and it also pushes against the inner lid to ensure it doesn't come open when taped down.
BOAT:
I ripped out all the wood, laid down a layer of glass with wise across the hull including over the lowered battery trays. After that dried, I laid another layer down the center of the boat, in between the sponsons, to mount the motor over. I made the motor mount since I run an outrunner, but you can fit a 3656(stock spec motor) with no rear motor support. The side rails are stainless steel. If you want to use a 74mm long motor you will need to support the rear of the motor. I will include an orange 36mm or 40mm rear motor support ring but you will have to make the side rails to accept the rear support. It will include the stock 40MM prop.
ELECTRONICS
The only electronics included will be the servo. I can include the out runner for an extra $40. I have ran the Castle motor with the stock 45A ESC, a Turnigy 60A ESC and finally the T-180 so I could run large props. It's very efficient and has a very low amp draw when run with a prop 42mm or smaller.THE T-180 ESC PICTURED IS DEAD. The ESC just beeps as if it has no radio signal sometimes and when it runs it runs as if LVC has kicked in, even with an external power source.
ASKING PRICE
Asking $OLD + actual shipped and Paypal fees for hull with FG lid, stock under cover, hardware, and servo. I can include the 3424 Castle 1800KV out runner for an extra $40. It will be shipped in the factory box, with boat stand pictured, and will be insured for the price payed. I will not sell motor without the hull and if only the hull is sold I will keep the motor
Last video of boat before paint:
Call dibs if you want it but the boat is not sold until I say it is!!
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