Amigo's Legg Lake SAW Nov 11-13th-2016 Results

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  • ray schrauwen
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Apr 2007
    • 9471

    #16
    Originally posted by raptor347
    I'm going to dbring left ething I rarely do: Here's the entire setup.
    Hull- Raptor tub, SAW front sponsons, no rears.
    Motor- TP3650 2Y 3080kV Thanks Jun Lin!
    ESC- CastleCreations Edge Lite 200 with added cooling tubes and conformal coating. Thanks Joe!
    Batteries- Dinogy Graphene (4S2P 3300's). Thanks mark!
    Prop- ABC 1823-19-38(2)cll S/B (snowman prep). Thanks Jim!
    Driveline- .150 double square cable with teflon liner into Hyperformance outboard stub shaft. Thanks Dave!

    So here's the reason for posting the info: It's essentially an off the shelf system. It's proof of what can be done with the incredible equipment that's available to all of us. It's also a reminder how careful we all need to be with how and where we run these things, be safe. Last but not least, it's a starting point and an invite to anyone who might be interested in joining us at time trial events.
    How does one thread that into a strut being a left hand thread???
    Nortavlag Bulc

    Comment

    • raptor347
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Jul 2007
      • 1089

      #17
      Originally posted by ray schrauwen
      How does one thread that into a strut being a left hand thread???
      Buy the correct tap (5/16-32R from memory, I'll check). Tap threads in the speedmaster flat bottom strut. Teflon lined 1/4" brass on the front side, outboard stub shaft on the back end. Figure out what shaft length you need and have Dave at Hyperformance build you some double square shafts. Outboard coupler at the motor.
      Brian "Snowman" Buaas
      Team Castle Creations
      NAMBA FE Chairman

      Comment

      • ray schrauwen
        Fast Electric Addict!
        • Apr 2007
        • 9471

        #18
        Originally posted by raptor347
        Buy the correct tap (5/16-32R from memory, I'll check). Tap threads in the speedmaster flat bottom strut. Teflon lined 1/4" brass on the front side, outboard stub shaft on the back end. Figure out what shaft length you need and have Dave at Hyperformance build you some double square shafts. Outboard coupler at the motor.
        Thank you. Answers to all questions I wanted to ask except how you lube it, maintain it? Take motor out?
        Nortavlag Bulc

        Comment

        • raptor347
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • Jul 2007
          • 1089

          #19
          Motor has a square coupler and slides right off the shaft. Unbolt and remove as usual.

          Every run I squirt a 50/50 mix of marvel air tool oil/STP into a hole drilled in the upper 2" of the stuffing tube and a hole in the side of the strut. Both holes are slightly counter sunk to give a good seal to the oiler tip.

          Thread the stub shaft out and pull the cable between events. Spray with wd40, wrap in a paper towel and leave it in the hull.
          Brian "Snowman" Buaas
          Team Castle Creations
          NAMBA FE Chairman

          Comment

          • dmitry100
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • Mar 2015
            • 1264

            #20
            What is the purpose of having such a double square shafts setup compared to using the typical flex cables and collet, etc?

            Comment

            • raptor347
              Fast Electric Addict!
              • Jul 2007
              • 1089

              #21
              No binding under load.
              Thrust applied at the strut.
              No thrust load on motor bearings.
              Sealed drive line.
              Brian "Snowman" Buaas
              Team Castle Creations
              NAMBA FE Chairman

              Comment

              • dmitry100
                Fast Electric Addict!
                • Mar 2015
                • 1264

                #22
                ahhh gotcha. I hear thrust load and big drive dog gaps are a bad combination especially for LMT motors and their motor bearings... Is there any truth to this? Should gaps be minimal when using LMT's?

                Comment

                • raptor347
                  Fast Electric Addict!
                  • Jul 2007
                  • 1089

                  #23
                  No idea. My experience is very limited with LMT motors.
                  I try to keep thrust loads off any motor/engine bearings.
                  Brian "Snowman" Buaas
                  Team Castle Creations
                  NAMBA FE Chairman

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