Turnigy 180 cooling upgrade

[properchopper]

I've seen several variations on this method. Some just use the center void. Here's a simple way to use the entire plate. IIRC I've seen something pretty close to this way of doing it. Here's how I did it :

Drilled through the side passages into the center void. (Relieved the side-fin with a dremel to allow clearance for drill bit)

Tapped the outside wall of the side-passage tube with a 6-32 tap & blocked off with set screws sealed with JB

Made block-off plates for the ends of the center passage with some scrap aluminum & carefully JB'd to attach & seal

Water enters the first tube-passage, enters the center void, does its heat exchange, exits into the other tube-passage & out the hull exit.

I'll pressure test as soon as the JB cures.

[chummer]

That's cool Tony. I never liked how the water cooling was located on the T180.

Another PIA is the wiring layout. Has anybody ever attempted to re-solder the wires so that they are laying down flat. Not sure if I want to try this myself. My soldering skills are not that great but it should would make layout alot easier. I seem to have trouble finding a happy spot for that ESC.

[properchopper]

That's cool Tony. I never liked how the water cooling was located on the T180.

Another PIA is the wiring layout. Has anybody ever attempted to re-solder the wires so that they are laying down flat. Not sure if I want to try this myself. My soldering skills are not that great but it should would make layout alot easier. I seem to have trouble finding a happy spot for that ESC.

I totally agree. Seems like the T-180 wasn't laid out by a boat guy. The cooling design doesn't appear to take full advantage of the plate, and the cooling lines at 90 degrees to the wires are a PIA. An easy mod to change that is pictured; with the mod it just makes into the box on my tunnel-should work for riggers as well.

I have a bonkered 180 with one motor wire desoldered off the board and even though I'm getting pretty good at soldering I haven't found my efforts to re-solder it getting the job done.

[Alexgar]

Could you solder it flat I need an esc for my apparition but this won't fit unless I can lay the wires down

[6sHyper]

Could you solder it flat I need an esc for my apparition but this won't fit unless I can lay the wires down

They will fit in the apparition with no modification, just hold the motor wires sideways and tuck it under the lip, you will have to remove part of the wooden esc tray or whatever behind the motor.

[ron1950]

how did the pressure test go?

[jwt]

T180 heatsink mods

I totally agree. Seems like the T-180 wasn't laid out by a boat guy. The cooling design doesn't appear to take full advantage of the plate, and the cooling lines at 90 degrees to the wires are a PIA. An easy mod to change that is pictured; with the mod it just makes into the box on my tunnel-should work for riggers as well.

I have a bonkered 180 with one motor wire desoldered off the board and even though I'm getting pretty good at soldering I haven't found my efforts to re-solder it getting the job done.

Tony

i agree with you, that the T180 does not work well with a boat layout,
so i took a slightly track than you, i just cut & tapped the brass stubs with 3mm metric, then screwed a plate each end, and used 90deg outlets on the top, i also drilled 2- 3 dia holes each end so water fills the 3 sections inside, seems to work good..

jwt

[Jeff Wohlt]

What is the chance of just using a good old alum type all the rest use? Seem it would be easy and better. Does the heat sink just pull off? Was considering do two for mine but using a alum block...would make it smaller as well.

[properchopper]

Tony

i agree with you, that the T180 does not work well with a boat layout,
so i took a slightly track than you, i just cut & tapped the brass stubs with 3mm metric, then screwed a plate each end, and used 90deg outlets on the top, i also drilled 2- 3 dia holes each end so water fills the 3 sections inside, seems to work good..

jwt

Nicely done ! Your design makes the finished job even narower than mine, should really help shoehorning into tunnels and riggers. May have to give your method a try with a spare top plate sitting on my bench

I have noticed that on late model T-180's that the brass inlet/outlets show that some sealant is being used which makes extracting them intact a little more challanging - I may try some heat to see if I can just unscrew them rather than cutting them off and re-tapping.

[properchopper]

What is the chance of just using a good old alum type all the rest use? Seem it would be easy and better. Does the heat sink just pull off? Was considering do two for mine but using a alum block...would make it smaller as well.

The cooling plate comes off with the four case screws.

Here's another configuration I may try - using the top-plate mod & encasing the heat sink block. Basically, though, if one's setup is correct, major cooling won't be all that necessary but won't hurt either.

[ron1950]

be carefull soon you will be in buisness revamping t180's for evenyone lol

[rearwheelin]

Tony I was thinking of doing a closed loop / mineral oil bath or transformer oil bath/ heat transfer cooling system using an aluminum enclosure case like this....http://www.hammondmfg.com/dwgf.htm..... Was curious if your bud down there has ever any issues with his closed loop system ? I'm going to put a T180 in it and use in a T29 , in Bakersfield heat the caps allways run hot so this is my solution.... :)

[properchopper]

Tony I was thinking of doing a closed loop / mineral oil bath or transformer oil bath/ heat transfer cooling system using an aluminum enclosure case like this....http://www.hammondmfg.com/dwgf.htm..... Was curious if your bud down there has ever any issues with his closed loop system ? I'm going to put a T180 in it and use in a T29 , in Bakersfield heat the caps allways run hot so this is my solution.... :)

Randy,

The HPR135 with closed loop/icewater seemed to work very well. Way too complex for normal use, but for highly stressed apps like SAWS maybe worth it.

My friend rigged this simple baby oil bath for a T-180. Crude but it works. I'll withold my take on this

DSC03084.JPG



I still maintain that the best approach to keeping temps in a reasonable range is to have a sensible setup.

[rearwheelin]

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I still maintain that the best approach to keeping temps in a reasonable range is to have a sensible setup.

Ha ha ha !!!...... Well as much as I run boats for me to have a good day needs to include a boat with a edgy / over powered / amped esc to get the desired effect .... I really don't like burned up/ over heated esc's or momma's tupurwhere in my boats so my best chance to run a T29 with a 1515 1y on 4s 10-12000mah with deep turn fins and a 440x 3b( I don't know why this prop, I like it though) and make her handle the weather around hear is doing this esc cooling mod lol I will bring it down sometime to whoop on yours ha ha

[martin]

When you remove & mod the cooling plate what do you use when you put the plate back on to the esc re heat sink compound. I can get the white paste heat sink compound, is this stuff suitable. Thanks Martin.