Eagletree 150 amp to 300 amps in 15 minutes

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  • jcald2000
    Senior Member
    • May 2008
    • 774

    #1

    Eagletree 150 amp to 300 amps in 15 minutes

    You can, on the wire lead ET, loop 12 ga. wire from esc side directly to batt. side bypassing the board entirely for both the +100_0052.jpg100_0051.jpg and - . This will bypass current, about 1/2, and let it run much cooler. You now have a 300 amp logger!
    Those are 8mm connectors.


    Next you need to access a Clamp on amp meter, clamp it around the battery leads and run the system up for 15 seconds or so logging the data and compare the amp readings between the them. The ET will have a reading of about 1/2 half of the clamp on meter.
    Now connect your ET to the computer, go to "Advanced programming" click on "Calibrate volt and amps" and enter the actual readings in the appropriate boxes and save.

    That all there is to it! Welcome to the 300 amp club!

    Recorded 283 amp burst with 192 amp average.
    Works great and is very easy to do.
    Try it you will like it.

    Those are 8mm connectors.
  • longballlumber
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Apr 2007
    • 3132

    #2
    Thanks for putting this up Jim! I will eventually make this change to mine so that I can get some decent data from my Q sport hydro...

    Question – How does this change affect the logger when going back to P-Limited type set ups? Meaning is the fidelity of the readings equally good compared to an unmodified Eagle Tree Data Logger?

    Thanks,
    Mike Ball

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    • oscarel
      Fast Electric Addict!
      • Dec 2009
      • 2130

      #3
      Is the current offset a percentage? Just wondering how thats gonna work??

      Comment

      • m4a1usr
        Fast Electric Addict
        • Nov 2009
        • 2038

        #4
        Originally posted by oscarel
        Is the current offset a percentage? Just wondering how thats gonna work??
        It could be if you wanted to scale the readings over the entire range measured. What ends up happening is the value you enter in after taking the half current reading will be offset to some degree, since wire, connectors IR and temperature are not compensated for over the operating range. But that amount is probably so insignificant who really honestly cares? I know, I know. Then whats the point of mentioning it? Just to put in perspective. This should be made in to a sticky for all to see if they want to mod their ET.

        John
        Change is the one Constant

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        • bigwaveohs
          Senior Member
          • May 2009
          • 535

          #5
          So basically you added a shunt and then used a clamp-on ammeter to calibrate the readings?
          I let the dogs out...

          Comment

          • jcald2000
            Senior Member
            • May 2008
            • 774

            #6
            I used a load, light blubs at 40 amps, to calibrate. A higher load might be better, however I have had no problems. I haven't seen any difference from 4s to 8s. Remember we use these to compare different props, batteries, hull settings, ect. I don't care if it's 3 or 4 amps off.

            Comment

            • carlcisneros
              Fast Electric Addict!
              • Jan 2010
              • 1218

              #7
              Dumb question, what you happen if you added another wire in parallel with the
              first wire installed on the ET?

              Comment

              • Drax21
                Fast Electric Addict!
                • Jul 2011
                • 1021

                #8
                Thanks for posting this. Can't believe I didn't think of it myself. That will give me something to do tomorrow
                Everything that has a beginning, has an End

                Comment

                • jcald2000
                  Senior Member
                  • May 2008
                  • 774

                  #9
                  Carl, the idea is to bypass 1/2 the amps form the ET.

                  Comment

                  • Chrisg81983
                    Fast Electric Addict!
                    • Jul 2011
                    • 1556

                    #10
                    I did this quite some time back and it worked great on my systems that pulled high Amps but when tried with my lower amp setups I got data that was inaccurate sometimes and other times it was pretty close but for high amp setups it is a great modification and works well
                    my youtube videos http://www.youtube.com/user/chris81983?feature=mhee

                    Comment

                    • jcald2000
                      Senior Member
                      • May 2008
                      • 774

                      #11
                      Humm, I use it on everything from P Limited to S hydro and haven't seen anything, except the usual have to keep the sensor plugs clean on the Logger. They can cause strange readings when they get loose or dirty.

                      Comment

                      • Chrisg81983
                        Fast Electric Addict!
                        • Jul 2011
                        • 1556

                        #12
                        Jcald I tried everythng to get it rite but I no longer have the eagle tree as I just traded it to a good friend and most of my setups use castle hydra ice hv and lv controllers but I was wondering if you could shed some info on how you put the system under load for calibration efenpics will be great I am thinking about getting another one and my way of calibrating was a little different
                        my youtube videos http://www.youtube.com/user/chris81983?feature=mhee

                        Comment

                        • jcald2000
                          Senior Member
                          • May 2008
                          • 774

                          #13
                          I calibrated by using 20 car tail light blubs soldered on brass rods, left over from our Nicad days over a decade ago, equaled 40 amps at 12 volts on a car battery.Loaded it for about 30 to 45 seconds to allow the bulbs to warm up and get stable reading.
                          How much load did you calibrate at?

                          Comment

                          • Prop-a-Gator
                            Senior Member
                            • Feb 2012
                            • 163

                            #14
                            jcald, any chance you can make a quick sketch of your schematic? I think I understand what you are describing, but I like to be sure. Thanks.
                            Disclaimer: I hereby accept the potential loss of motor, ESC, entire boat, or credit rating, and forfeit all expectations of success.

                            Comment

                            • oscarel
                              Fast Electric Addict!
                              • Dec 2009
                              • 2130

                              #15
                              Originally posted by jcald2000
                              I calibrated by using 20 car tail light blubs soldered on brass rods, left over from our Nicad days over a decade ago, equaled 40 amps at 12 volts on a car battery.Loaded it for about 30 to 45 seconds to allow the bulbs to warm up and get stable reading.
                              How much load did you calibrate at?
                              So just verified with an EagleTree data recorder with 300 amp expansion and it's definitely very close!! I calibrated the elogger at 40amps while charging a lipo and once calibrated both recorders showed almost the same graph after a test run. Very nice find!

                              Comment

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