1/8 Qatar ML Boatworks 172 Extreme Kit Build

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  • Tetefroid
    Member
    • Nov 2017
    • 78

    #16
    I don't have an answer to your questions but this is how I do mine....IMG_4482.jpg IMG_4481.jpg IMG_4483.jpg The Recoveries help the front of the boat pop out of the water on acceleration, And you said you water is glass smooth, you may want to put Ripples in your riding surfaces to break up the water, smooth water is what they call "sticky water".
    Last edited by Tetefroid; 09-20-2020, 09:37 PM.

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    • WhiteH2O
      Junior Member
      • Aug 2019
      • 28

      #17
      A little slower progress, but still progress. Motor, ESC, rudder, steering servo, and other bits are here. Still lots to get, but I'm trying to figure out the best way to set everything in. Don't yet have batteries, so I can't use those to help figure out balance, but without everything, I'm guessing trying to figure out balance is a fool's errand.

      Could anyone give me input on this layout? I'm worried the ESC is too close to the motor. I don't know why them being close would be an issue though. Note that they would be a tiny bit further away since my motor moved a little off the mounting marks, but it is close. The plan is to mount a plate where the ESC is, and I would velcro the ESC to the plate. I've seen that everyone seems to put their steering servo pretty far forward. Is this for balance and keeping it as far fwd as possible? How worried do I need to be about balance port-stbd? I have the ESC and servo on the same side, the receiver could go on the opposite side (but that seems negligible). Is this a possible issue?

      20201003_171605.jpg

      20201002_122251.jpg

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      • WhiteH2O
        Junior Member
        • Aug 2019
        • 28

        #18
        Aside from the questions in the last post, I came up with a few other questions...

        I'm going to need a new transmitter. I'm currently using a $40 transmitter for my other boat, and I don't trust it for something like this boat. I think I'd like to get a transmitter that is good enough to keep for a while and use on other potential future boats as well. I'm thinking about one of the Spectrum DX5 transmitters. They seem like a fair price range and high enough quality to last a awhile. Thoughts? Suggestions? I'd like to have telemetry- worth it? or waste of money?

        Strut- What distance from the bottom of the boat do I want to mount this thing? Also, what angle? Should it be 0 degrees from the bottom of the boat?

        Prop- How would an Octura x560 work on this? Good enough starting point? I had a new one given to me, so I have one already. Motor is a HET 700-98-840kv, and I'll be starting 8s.

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        • 1coopgt
          Senior Member
          • Feb 2019
          • 415

          #19
          Originally posted by WhiteH2O
          Aside from the questions in the last post, I came up with a few other questions...

          I'm going to need a new transmitter. I'm currently using a $40 transmitter for my other boat, and I don't trust it for something like this boat. I think I'd like to get a transmitter that is good enough to keep for a while and use on other potential future boats as well. I'm thinking about one of the Spectrum DX5 transmitters. They seem like a fair price range and high enough quality to last a awhile. Thoughts? Suggestions? I'd like to have telemetry- worth it? or waste of money?


          Strut- What distance from the bottom of the boat do I want to mount this thing? Also, what angle? Should it be 0 degrees from the bottom of the boat?


          Prop- How would an Octura x560 work on this? Good enough starting point? I had a new one given to me, so I have one already. Motor is a HET 700-98-840kv, and I'll be starting 8s.

          I have 2 different transmitters. A Futaba 4PLS and a Flysky Noble. I've been using the Futaba for everything up till now. I haven't tested the Flysky yet with any of my boats ,but my plan is for the Futaba to be used with my 1/5scale baja and the Noble for my 2 Cats and the Hydro.

          Mine is not set yet but from my understand the centerline of the prop should be on the same plain as the sponson ride pads. Degree angle I'm not sure I'm planing on making it parallel to the bottom of the boat. Planning on being able to adjust a little positive or negative when setting up the boat.

          Props I'm not sure what to tell you. I talked to Bill Brant and went with what he said. I have a 2 blade and a 3 blade prop to play with.

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          • WhiteH2O
            Junior Member
            • Aug 2019
            • 28

            #20
            Thanks, Coop. That's a good start!

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            • markman660
              Junior Member
              • Apr 2020
              • 4

              #21
              Strut and propeller talk

              Originally posted by WhiteH2O
              Aside from the questions in the last post, I came up with a few other questions...
              Strut- What distance from the bottom of the boat do I want to mount this thing? Also, what angle? Should it be 0 degrees from the bottom of the boat?
              Here is a quote on YouTube from the comments section in the video titled,
              Radio Control Hydroplane Prop Shaft Installation ? A Better Way!

              Terry Perrott
              Is there a magic depth the strut is set & angle?

              M5 Performance Hydroplanes ? Scott Meyers
              I was hoping you could tell me! No Terry, there isn't a magic number. Every hull is different and rides differently, so the strut must be adjusted in response to what the boat wants. What I can tell you is my typical starting point, which is between 1 1/16" to 1 3/16" deep (centerline of prop shaft to floor), and 1? - 1.5? positive angle (strut deeper at the rear). From there it's anyone's guess. Good luck!

              Terry Perrott
              So if you take a straight edge from the back side of the ride pad on sponson to the transom that would be appropriately the angle of the strut ?? Or even a good starting point.

              M5 Performance Hydroplanes
              Hmm, possibly. To be honest, I've never checked the angle of the plane relative to the ride pads and strut centerline. I'll have to do that. Typically I set my strut to have between 1?- 1.5? positive angle (rear of strut lower than front of strut).

              Originally posted by WhiteH2O
              Prop- How would an Octura x560 work on this? Good enough starting point? I had a new one given to me, so I have one already. Motor is a HET 700-98-840kv, and I'll be starting 8s.
              The Octura X560 I don?t know if that is a good choice?
              I read somewhere online that for 1/8 scale hydroplanes it is recommended to use propellers with a diameter between 52mm and 57mm.

              I have the following three props.
              Octura X452.
              Diameter 52mm
              Pitch Ratio 1.4
              52 x 1.4 = 72.8 Total Pitch

              Prather Products Inc
              B-240
              Diameter 53.85mm (2.12?)
              Pitch Ratio 1.556
              53.85 x 1.556 = 83.79 Total Pitch

              ABC Props
              H-2215
              Diameter 55.88mm (2.2?)
              Pitch Ratio 1.5
              55.88 x 1.5 = 83.82 Total Pitch
              Mark Vanyo
              Renton, Washington

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              • leonard feeback
                Senior Member
                • Mar 2011
                • 130

                #22
                You should contact David Newton. He lives in Renton, Wa. He can help you with many of your questions.

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                • jaike5
                  Senior Member
                  • Dec 2011
                  • 561

                  #23
                  Great Lakes gentlemen's agreement for 1/8th scale was Oct. X455, with Neu, lehner, Pletenburg motors.

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                  • Fodarr
                    Junior Member
                    • Feb 2022
                    • 3

                    #24
                    Did you not use solid blocks on either side of the cockpit? I see a trail of blocking to attach ply to. Would def be lighter... My assumption was that those area were solid wood blocks...

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                    • WhiteH2O
                      Junior Member
                      • Aug 2019
                      • 28

                      #25
                      After a long break of not having a good place to work on the boat - I lived in a 5th wheel while I built my house- I'm back to building the boat. It sat in primer for a long time, but now I'm working on final touches before paint. Just got the rear ride pad things (whatever they're called) made and put on. I'm finishing up fairing and I'll start with paint soon. There is going to be some re-learning everything I forgot while I was taking a break, but I believe I have all the parts and such, just need to figure out where they all go in the hull.

                      Meanwhile, I now live on a great lake that is flat calm most of the time. Kayaks, sailboats, rowboats, RC boats, and pretty soon, a 1/8 "scale" Alaska Air hydro. Although I now work for Delta, so a new build is already justified.

                      Here is a picture of the lake because posts without pictures are boring.
                      20221101_162524.jpg

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                      • meangenesracing
                        Fast Electric Addict!
                        • Jun 2012
                        • 1167

                        #26
                        Originally posted by WhiteH2O
                        After a long break of not having a good place to work on the boat - I lived in a 5th wheel while I built my house- I'm back to building the boat. It sat in primer for a long time, but now I'm working on final touches before paint. Just got the rear ride pad things (whatever they're called) made and put on. I'm finishing up fairing and I'll start with paint soon. There is going to be some re-learning everything I forgot while I was taking a break, but I believe I have all the parts and such, just need to figure out where they all go in the hull.

                        Meanwhile, I now live on a great lake that is flat calm most of the time. Kayaks, sailboats, rowboats, RC boats, and pretty soon, a 1/8 "scale" Alaska Air hydro. Although I now work for Delta, so a new build is already justified.

                        Here is a picture of the lake because posts without pictures are boring.
                        [ATTACH=CONFIG]176105[/ATTACH]
                        Nice looking spot

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                        • Peter A
                          Fast Electric Addict!
                          • Sep 2012
                          • 1492

                          #27
                          That looks like a beautiful spot. Haven't seen an international moth for years!
                          NZMPBA 2013, 2016 Open Electric Champion. NZMPBA 2016 P Offshore Champion.
                          2016 SUHA Q Sport Hydro Hi Points Champion.
                          BOPMPBC Open Mono, Open Electric Champion.

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                          • WhiteH2O
                            Junior Member
                            • Aug 2019
                            • 28

                            #28
                            I'm struggling through the painting stage with temperature issues in my garage, so it is taking a bit longer than I thought, but I think I have it figured out now. Progress continues slowly.

                            While waiting for paint to dry, I've dug out the box of running gear I have for the boat. This includes a HET Typhoon 700-98-840kv motor, that I'm finding out is a 39mm can. I have a cooling sleeve and a motor mount that are meant for a 40mm can, and I'm finding out that neither of these are going to work. Well, I could probably make the mount work with some modifications, but the sleeve is a no-go. Does anyone have any ideas where to find a 39mm cooling sleeve? I've searched every way that I can think of, and I'm coming up empty. I hope someone here has an idea, because I'm slowly starting to think I need to find myself a 40mm motor instead.

                            Also, last week, the mailman was nice enough to deliver me drawings for a 32" Mystic C5000. Once the Alaska Hydro is done, I think I have a new project to start. Either that or rebuild my Hobie 16 sailboat that is full of soft spots and takes on water...

                            Peter- The Moth was just given to me a month ago. A friend used to race them competitively in New Zealand decades ago, and has finally decided he is too old to sail this anymore, so he decided it would be a good lake sailboat for me. Its so much fun!

                            Comment

                            • Peter A
                              Fast Electric Addict!
                              • Sep 2012
                              • 1492

                              #29
                              You can use a 40 mm can on a 39mm motor, just get some thicker o rings. I did that on a Turnigy fandrive 3996 motor. The O rings need to be 1 mm thicker, i.e. if the existing are 1.5 mm thick then get 2.5 mm o rings.
                              NZMPBA 2013, 2016 Open Electric Champion. NZMPBA 2016 P Offshore Champion.
                              2016 SUHA Q Sport Hydro Hi Points Champion.
                              BOPMPBC Open Mono, Open Electric Champion.

                              Comment

                              • WhiteH2O
                                Junior Member
                                • Aug 2019
                                • 28

                                #30
                                Thanks Peter, that is a much better solution to the problem! Not sure why I didn't think of that...

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