1/10th 8255 SCALE BUILD - U-100 MISS ROCK

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  • Speed810
    Senior Member
    • Jul 2014
    • 288

    #1

    1/10th 8255 SCALE BUILD - U-100 MISS ROCK

    Well I had found that it was somewhat difficult finding an actual 1/10 scale build on here. There seems to be a piece here and another piece there.

    So I started this on the well known Newton 8255 design & kit from ML Boatworks. The boat will be the 1985 U-100 Miss Rock. Haven't made a final decision as yet to power, ESC, or battery. A lot folks at MMEU have been getting into the 1/10 scale racing and everyone seems to be having a great time with them. So decided I had to build one....

    Started off with building a jig for this build. I think that the Jig actually took longer to build than the framing in of the hull...LOL. You'll see the jig that the hull is sitting on. If you need a separate pictures of the jig just let me know.
    I was also able to find some nice metal blocks to assist in the build. Picked up 4 lg. aluminum blocks ad 4 2X2X3/4 steel blocks all for $35.00. I thought that was a pretty fair price. All blocks are cut perfectly to 90 degree angles that helped out a lot with keeping the rails and bulkheads square thru out the build.

    So everything on this boat had been test fitted together twice before I started up the gluing process. Doubler's were glued together for the transom and both sponson transoms. After everything was test fitted for the final time the gluing process starts with everything assembled from the transom up thru the #6 bulhead. What is really important is to just use thin CA to glue these surfaces together. Even when gluing with thin CA, go easy on how much is being used. If you want to save some time on your builds watch where the CA is being applied. You have many top and bottom stringers to install and you don't want a glob of CA blocking up the slots for the stringers.

    The next thing was to add the remaining sponson bulkheads, stringers and the front nose sections. I then moved on to adding some glue strips to add to the glue area for the sponson sheeting. I use 1/4 sq. basswood under the ride pad and 1/16 sq. on all other sponson rail areas. The inside and outside interim sheets either side of the ride pad are the first to be installed. Then cut / sand the ride pad sheet to fit. All bottom sponson sheeting is 1/16. The top decking on this boat will be finished with 1/32 sheeting.

    Next will be completing the turn fin, bracket and backplate before glassing and epoxy work. Also need top add rear wing mounts in the hull and complete glassing/epoxy work. Still trying to figure out what I want to do with the front nose section and air brake.


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  • Speed810
    Senior Member
    • Jul 2014
    • 288

    #2
    Sponson Sheeting

    Just some pictures of some of the sponson sheeting.


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    • 785boats
      Wet Track Racing
      • Nov 2008
      • 3169

      #3
      Sweet.
      I love watching a boat come together. I can smell the birch wood from here.
      See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
      http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=319
      http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=320

      Comment

      • lambo
        Junior Member
        • Sep 2014
        • 21

        #4
        Can you post some more pics of the jig? I’m starting a similar kit. (ML 149 / mhr 8701)
        Last edited by lambo; 01-22-2018, 05:22 PM. Reason: spelling

        Comment

        • Speed810
          Senior Member
          • Jul 2014
          • 288

          #5
          Originally posted by 785boats
          Sweet.
          I love watching a boat come together. I can smell the birch wood from here.
          Morning Paul....yes in deed...the birch wood saw dust is flying through the air...LOL

          Comment

          • Speed810
            Senior Member
            • Jul 2014
            • 288

            #6
            Originally posted by lambo
            Can you post some more pics of the jig? I’m starting a similar kit. (ML 149 / mhor 8701)
            Morning Geoff....I’m at work for 1/2 day today, but will post some jig pictures when I get home.

            Federal employee and caught up in the gov shut down....

            Comment

            • T.S.Davis
              Fast Electric Addict!
              • Oct 2009
              • 6220

              #7
              You decided to not carry those traps back. Very interested in seeing how that runs.

              I think Ty might be spread to thin this season with all the killer boats I've put together for him. I might be running the 8255 Oberto for 2018. That class is stupid fun. The boats are all so close.
              Noisy person

              Comment

              • Speed810
                Senior Member
                • Jul 2014
                • 288

                #8
                Hey Terry...

                Yep decided to sand out the traps just aft of the #4 bulkhead. But I think I’m going to keep some of the air break up front. Really want see if it frees up the boat a bit in the turns, but keep it stable in the straights. Guess we’ll see...

                I’m really looking forward to running it this summer. I’ve been watching you guys running these for the last two years and it just looks like to much fun...lol

                Comment

                • Speed810
                  Senior Member
                  • Jul 2014
                  • 288

                  #9
                  Originally posted by lambo
                  Can you post some more pics of the jig? I’m starting a similar kit. (ML 149 / mhor 8701)
                  Hey Geoff....

                  Well made it home after my 1/2 day of work...lol. But now it looks like I’m back to work tomorrow.
                  Here are some pics of the jig you were wanting. Let me know if you need any other info.

                  Just need to make sure everything is Square and flat. So take your time...it will be worth it in the end.



                  B74AC44F-CE01-4318-8A7A-E1B8C8FC4CBF.jpg8EAD45CE-F4ED-434F-A6D2-257DAE9ABDFC.jpg72FF47CF-C3AB-43C2-93EF-FBFD7E99BEFF.jpg

                  Comment

                  • lambo
                    Junior Member
                    • Sep 2014
                    • 21

                    #10
                    Thank you

                    Comment

                    • T.S.Davis
                      Fast Electric Addict!
                      • Oct 2009
                      • 6220

                      #11
                      Originally posted by Speed810
                      Really want see if it frees up the boat a bit in the turns, but keep it stable in the straights. Guess we’ll see
                      I've had this conversation a number of times with Mike. The physics aren't different with the notch in my opinion. It's still the air travel distance above vs the travel distance below the fuselage (so to speak). Negative pressure dictates the lift. Like a wing. He's not actually changing the dimensions by having the dam. It just looks worse.

                      Ty's boat is really fast, turns, and doesn't blow off the water so we'll take it.
                      Noisy person

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                      • longballlumber
                        Fast Electric Addict!
                        • Apr 2007
                        • 3132

                        #12
                        Hi Mike, where did you find the weight blocks?

                        Comment

                        • Speed810
                          Senior Member
                          • Jul 2014
                          • 288

                          #13
                          Originally posted by longballlumber
                          Hi Mike, where did you find the weight blocks?

                          Hi Mike....I got them over at Alero Steel. They have an outlet over here in Lansing. They have 8-10 shelves full of scrap aluminum, and different types of bar steel blocks. Cost was between $1.50 to $3.00 per lb. depending on the type of metal. They will even cut this stuff for you at $5 for the first cut and $1 each cut after that.
                          I didn't think that was a bad deal. Those blocks I found were all cut that way...LOL.

                          They might have an outlet over that way in Detroit. Or let me know if you need any and I'll see what I can find....

                          Comment

                          • macomb
                            Member
                            • Apr 2015
                            • 53

                            #14
                            Originally posted by Speed810
                            Hi Mike....I got them over at Alero Steel. They have an outlet over here in Lansing. They have 8-10 shelves full of scrap aluminum, and different types of bar steel blocks. Cost was between $1.50 to $3.00 per lb. depending on the type of metal. They will even cut this stuff for you at $5 for the first cut and $1 each cut after that.
                            I didn't think that was a bad deal. Those blocks I found were all cut that way...LOL.

                            They might have an outlet over that way in Detroit. Or let me know if you need any and I'll see what I can find....
                            There is another Alro outlet store on Groesbeck south of I696

                            Comment

                            • longballlumber
                              Fast Electric Addict!
                              • Apr 2007
                              • 3132

                              #15
                              Thanks fells! always looking for ways to hold stuff in position while gluing.

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