U-3 1/8 scale Hydroplane.
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I've built 8 or so of Mikes kits, but none of them had a framing jig. I've got no idea how that one in your pic would be assembled.
Which kit exactly are you building? Do a search for that kit both here, & on Offshore Electrics, & you may find some photos in someones build log.
Or just do a google search on it & hit the 'images' button at the top of the page. Something might turn up.
But for sure, Mike would help you out if you ask him.See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
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I've built 8 or so of Mikes kits, but none of them had a framing jig. I've got no idea how that one in your pic would be assembled.
Which kit exactly are you building? Do a search for that kit both here, & on Offshore Electrics, & you may find some photos in someones build log.
Or just do a google search on it & hit the 'images' button at the top of the page. Something might turn up.
But for sure, Mike would help you out if you ask him.
1/8th Scale Newton 172/ MHR 0203/ 9601 Extreme Kit, and once they described to me where it went, I could see it in a picture on ML Boatworks website. Sorry to spam up your page here 785Boats, your build looks great.IMG_7240.jpgComment
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I too was thinking of a full frame jig, but now it is explained as just for the front cowling it all makes sense.
Sorry to spam up your page here 785BoatsSee the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
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Still working night shift but managed to find a bit of time & energy to get the driveline sorted. I think?
I say that because although I have used an S bend stuffing tube in a rigger, I'm not sure on how well it will work with a 1/4" shaft in a 1/8 scale Hydro.
If anyone has tried it, please let me know.
I had to lay the motor flat under the hatch as there was no room to allow the normal angle that most motors are fitted.
I did cut a hole in the hatch to allow the rear of the motor to sit up inside the crank case of the dummy Allison engine.
But it wouldn't fit, & it moved the motor too far back, which ruined the cog.
Anyway, I made up a motor mount from some 50mm x 50mm aluminium angle & epoxied it in place with some ply strengthening gussets on the tub walls to lock it in place. Same as I always do with hydros.
The strut was mounted through the floor. I had to shorten the strut for it to fit under the hatch cover.
Then the tube was bent to shape & epoxied into the hull with a supporting ply brace fitted across the tub near the motor.
The strut mounted on the belly pan.
001.jpg
Under the hull.
004.jpg
Motor mount, stuffing tube & brace.
002.jpg
View from the front.
003.jpgSee the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
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Thanks Mitch.
Yes, a beautiful boat.
A 1/10 scale is cool. I take it that you are building it for 1/10 scale racing to mix it up with the turbine looking hulls.
Could you post a few pics here please, showing the foam construction. Sounds interesting.
I too am setting it up in the Ace Hardware livery.
Mike at Thunderboat Graphics is doing all the graphics for me. He would do them in 1/10. Or do you make your own, like all the other scale items you make?
PS. I'm never happier than when I'm building a boat.
IMG_0886.jpg IMG_0887.jpg IMG_0888.jpg IMG_0892.jpg
IMG_0893.jpgComment
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Absolutely beautiful.
I hope mine turns out as well as yours.
I've slowed up a fair bit on mine, but those photos have inspired me to have a bit more of a crack with it.See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
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Unfortunately, I haven't done much building in the last month or so due to work commitments. I haven't fitted the turn fin hardware yet.
I should get a bit done this weekend. We'll see then.See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
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I've finally shaken the building doldrums loose, & have had a bit of a crack at some of those tedious things over the last few evenings. Yay!
First, I tackled the rudder bracket, servo & rod. I decided to recess the servo into the side of the tub.
Then the fin braces were made up, starting with plate tapped onto the transom.
The braces were made from 3mm threaded rod with some clevises on the ends. Over the rod is a piece of 3/16" aluminium tubing.
A couple of T brackets were made from some 1/16 aluminium angle & recessed flush into the fins with the T part running through the fins. The clevis is bolted through that.
At the transom the other clevis required a small block of aluminium in it & a bolt was fitted through the assembly & tapped into the plate on the inside of the transom.
Then it was the turn fin & bracket.
I had an Accu-Tech fin in the spares box but no bracket. I fashioned one up out of a couple of pieces of 3mm angle fitted inside each other to make a 6mm thick bracket.
I cut them on an angle so that the straight fin would be canted when it was all bolted up.
I'm inspired enough to really get into this boat again.
Here are some visuals.
Servo & linkage
009.jpg
The rudder bracket, servo & rod, and the fin braces.
002.jpg
Fin brace attached at the fin.
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Turn fin & angled bracket.
006.jpg
Temporarily fitted.
007.jpgLast edited by 785boats; 06-15-2019, 03:27 PM.See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
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Tetefroid.
If I ever get around to painting it & finishing it off, they will go in the nose canopy section. 10s fits nicely.See the danger. THEN DO IT ANYWAY!!!
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