ML Boatworks 1/8th Scale 171 Extreme Build Miss Elam

[Chilli]

most of Don's build is here:

http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...hp?albumid=643

That's my boat now....

[john finch]

I am running the 1/8th scale O boy Oberto that Don set the SAW record with. It is now a heat racer with the 1527 1.5y on 10s 1p and finishes 8 laps with 32 percent still left in the batteries. I am now converting my 1969 miss Bardahl roundnose nitro boat to electric. i am going to try 8s 2p with the 1530 neu at 1100 kv because I have 4 of the 4s packs and can play with 1p vs 2p vs weight etc. If it is not as good as the o boy oberto I have a new neu 1527 1.5y ready to install and use the 10s 1p setup. I will find out this spring which setup is best for sure. Like Don said..........the 1527 1.5 on 10s 1p is a solid performer.

John
Fast becoming an electric addict!

[Speed810]

Good Morning Don....

Thanks very much for the photo's. I also looked at the other build and actually got some good information there on the initial build.

I ordered the main SG118C Cowling, Turbine tray and the Lexan canopy so I have that on hand before sheeting starts.

Just some basic concepts that I'm working on to understand are:
One of the biggest is understanding the motor placement...doesn't seem to be much out there. Are you placing the motor on the centerline of the transom or centerline of the motor well, which then it actually is off-set slightly....Trying to figure out the pro's & con's and the why's (what does this do to the boat).....LOL
Cowling attachment and sealing from water.
Cowling intake and ideas of sealing that off from water into the hull.
Engine mock up ideas and what you used.
Was your Elam floor bottom in the motor to transom area reinforced with just the carbon fiber cloth or do you also add some ply sheet to that area for strength?
Did you use formed carbon fiber cloth for the center section leading edge, and/or sheeting or balsa block to shape the leading edge.?

Cooling water inlet / outlet systems. I see different designs in that. Just interested in what you prefer that keeps everything cool.

Anything you can lend Don would be appreciated. I know its a busy time, so no hurry.


Again thanks to everyone for your help and information.
HAPPY HOLIDAYS TO ALL!!

Mike

[Speed810]

Thanks John....

Definitely looking like the power package to go with. Seems to be proven over and over.

Have any pictures of your 10S setup as far as motor and battery placement?

Thanks

Mike

[Scott M]

Nice job building. I'm looking forward to seeing it done

[Speed810]

Thanks Scott! I'm pretty excited on this end.

[Doug Smock]

That would be great Doug....

Just like to get an idea of battery and motor placement etc. So what ever you have would be outstanding. You can email it if you like.

Mike

Here's what I came up with Mike.
I have additional pics of the waterlines and transom hardware if you'd like. Don't want to clutter your thread too much.

[Speed810]

Those are great Doug. Don't worry about cluttering this up. Just want to see the various installs and configurations. Looks like a 10S1P setup is that right?....with another battery for RX and servo operation. Notice your using all silicone waterlines for cooling. I see some builds where they recommend using brass lines and then going to silicone lines. Not sure if it really makes that much difference. Also do you use a dual pick up rudder with separate outlets, one to the motor and one for the ESC. I see that highly recommended by some, but would rather clarify it with you guys that are running the actual 1527 motor...etc. Is all your hardware Accu-Tech 1/8 scale hardware?

Thanks again for all the great pictures and information.

Mike

[Doug Smock]

My pleasure.
Yes sir 10s 1P. The hardware is Speedmaster. As you'll see I ran aluminum tubing through the transom all the way up to the motor and ESC then went with silicone. I ran two lines because the rudder had two pickups. I am confident that this set up would be fine with a single pick up cooling the motor first if that's the direction you want to go. I've never has a problem getting adequate cooling on a FE boat with a single pick up.

Hope this helps.

Looking forward to the reminder of your build.

D.

PS Don't forget floatation. I put it in every place it would fit. Used 2"x whatever blue foam blocks.

[Speed810]

Thanks Doug....Great pictures on your setup. Did you use the Speedmaster turn fin also?

See you have a few sponges in the rear also for water seeping in thru the strut. Guess they all must do this. Did you think about putting an auto bailer in at all?
Heard they can be more of a problem at times then not having one at all....LOL

Thanks again Doug!!

Mike

[Doug Smock]

Hey Mike,

The sponge (and paper towels not in the pic lol) were just a bit of insurance for the maiden voyage. I hadn't float tested the boat. The boat stays dry.

I haven't ever used auto "sinkers". Like you, I've heard enough stories from those that have.

I'm pretty sure Mike L. made the turn fin bracket, the fin is a Virginia Craftsman.


D.

[john finch]

o boy oberto.jpgHere is the Oboy Oberto. Two 5s packs go in front of the motor. The speed controller is on top of the motor. Hope this helps.

John

[Speed810]

Sponson Framing

Well finally found sometime last night and today to continue building. Pictures are attached below....if you see some areas needing attention, feel free to let me know....

Finished up the initial framing of both sponsons and got some pre-sanding done to shape the stringers with all the formers. Still need to add some 3/16 Sq. stock to the top and bottom of the formers and add the rear heel formers before sheeting starts.

Also thanks to everyone for all your input and pictures. It sure has helped me plan ahead and look at other reinforcement areas around the nose and motor well.

[Speed810]

Left Sponson.

[Speed810]

Pre-fit both sponsons.