SeaKing 120 esc

[LarrysDrifter]

My King is almost resurected!!!Water testing tonight,then on to bolting the motors back in.I really want to be able to put the batteries in the sponsons when I run the X442 props.Still have to figure out how Im going to do it and be happy with it.I figure if I can get the batts there for the 442's,I can put the esc's on the floor near the rear and have room from the front of the hatch opening on back to put the batterys on the floor for when I run my 38mm props,and the C.G. will be adjustable for whatever props I want to use.I havent taken any pics as Ive been re-building.Just been in get it done mode.Ill post pics when its done.Should be able to run it this weekend.

[forescott]

My King is almost resurected!!!Water testing tonight,then on to bolting the motors back in.I really want to be able to put the batteries in the sponsons when I run the X442 props.Still have to figure out how Im going to do it and be happy with it.I figure if I can get the batts there for the 442's,I can put the esc's on the floor near the rear and have room from the front of the hatch opening on back to put the batterys on the floor for when I run my 38mm props,and the C.G. will be adjustable for whatever props I want to use.I havent taken any pics as Ive been re-building.Just been in get it done mode.Ill post pics when its done.Should be able to run it this weekend.

Good to see it almost back up and running! I like my setup with the batteries in the sponsons. Works great on the 442's and equally well on the cf-40's. Have yet to run this layout with my small 32mm venom props, but it handles better the way it is now, even though the c.o.g. seems too forward.

[LarrysDrifter]

My friend has an Apparation single drive.He moved the batts forward like yours in the pic and nose dove in the shallow water we run in.The boat stuck in the mud underwater from around 8 pm till the next morning.He felt it underwater while wading is the only reason it came up.The water is about 2 to 3 feet deep.

[LarrysDrifter]

Water tested last night and water still drips from the stuffing tubes.Gonna put silicone between the stingers and hull as well as vacuum caps on the stuffing tubes inside the hull.Other than that,its water tight.No pressure test though.

[forescott]

Grease between the teflon and aluminum tube??

[Boomer]

Possible source of the water leaks

This is just a suggestion, based on my own experience. While testing my EKOS for the first time last week, I found water inside the boat. There was no obvious source for the leak.

When I got home I did a "tub test", and determined the water was leaking in around the four hex heads that hold the drives to the hull. I called Venom to get their take on this and they suggested removing the drives (stingers) from the hull to see if the each one had an O-ring on the teflon flex shaft tube. (they are suppost to have them) There were no O-rings. That is why I had the leaks.

New O-rings will be installed and I am making a simple "flange gasket" to put between the hull and the flange/bracket the holes the drives(stingers) to the boat.

The good news is nothing was damaged, and the boat had no issues. I had taken all the precautions that have been discussed in this forum, so other than the leaks, no problems.

Don't know if that is the issue with yours but thought it was worth a mention
Boomer

[LarrysDrifter]

Grease between the teflon and aluminum tube??

Yeah,I greased it.Im rebuilding the stingers now.I used a piece of brass tube for the spacer between the bearings.Much smoother than the teflon that came stock.

[LarrysDrifter]

Boomer,I had no o-rings either with mine.Im going to use silicone around the bolt holes and mating area.Im getting water up the stuffing tube though.Not through the mounting flange on the stingers.Thank you for the suggestion though.Im also working on installing a Du-Bro wheel collar with a set screw to put on the wire drive just behind the stub shaft so to help not to lose any more props and drive dogs.Ive had a problem with that in the past with the wire breaking.Shouldnt anymore though.I do have perfect alingment between the collet and stuffing tube.I dont think it was good before.

[Boomer]

Did you replace the teflon tube that was inside the boat (flex shaft sleeve)? Or did you add a short piece of brass tubing inside the drive/stinger? Can you shoot a picture of that arrangement from me? Mine is still stock, so the teflon tube sticks out a few of MM's beyond the transom. It acts as a "stub out" to hang the O-ring on, and protrudes a little into the opening of the drive/stinger line a spline on transmission.

Thank you
Boomer

[LarrysDrifter]

Here is where I put a Du-Bro wheel collar(1/16") on the wire drive as close as possible to the stub shaft.Hopefully,if the wire lets go again this will keep it in the boat so I dont lose props anymore.Ive seen some people put them on the wire between the collet and stuffing tube,which may be fine,but if the wire breaks aft of the collet,it wont do much good.

[LarrysDrifter]

This is the stinger mounting plate that bolts the stinger to the hull.The opening which Im pointing at must be enlarged if the wheel collar is going to be put in like in the previous pic.I used a Dremel tool.Grind and check untill theres clearance.Dont go over board.There is a flange that must be kept intact.The reason this has to be enlarged is for the set screw.It wont rub if you run a neutral setting on the stinger,but if you want to go positive or negative,enlarge the opening.

[LarrysDrifter]

This is the can of gasket maker I bought from the parts store.I put this on to seal the stinger to the hull.It works very well and dont cost too much.

[LarrysDrifter]

This is how I arranged everything for this go-around.Batteries in the sponsons,esc's on the floor towards the rear,servo mounted to the steering rod is in-line with the rudder instead of the bad angle venom had it.I have room on the floor to put the batteries so I can move the COG towards the rear for running props smaller than X442's.Also,by putting the esc's where I did makes for shorter cooling hoses too.

[LarrysDrifter]

This is one of the SeaKing 120's I ran before.I wanted to mount them this way to keep cooling hose routing simple and get the cleanest look possible.I used a heat gun to help remove the sticker then cut the factory shrink wrap off.Next,I took off the cooling plate and turned it 180 degrees so the nipples are on the capasitor end.The thermal pad is still used.Then I shrunk some new wrap on,put the sticker back on and CA glued the edges to hold it down.Now the motor wires reach fine and the cooling hose isnt going everywhere.Oh,and I used FighterCats idea on using Epoxy paint for the inside to brighten it up and make it look nice after I re-inforced the hull with fiberglass matting.Just be sure to sand the paint off if you need to glue or epoxy something first or I dont think itll stick very long.The second pic shows I can read the GPS through the window to see what MPH it ran with out untaping the hatch.Now I can make stinger adjustments and just look through the window again.

[LarrysDrifter]

Last minute flame job I did earlier.I had painted tips on the sponsons to hide the external fix from where I split the hull,then decided it would look better with matching flames.I did a "hurry"job on them,so they dont look the best,but good enough for a patched up hull.I did not take pics as I was re-inforcing the hull and sponsons.But most of you know what it would look like without paint.And I messed up on the flames a little too where they cross over.