Metal props

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  • VIKOS
    Senior Member
    • Jan 2010
    • 204

    #16
    Well go my pro machined props in today. Gona go home after work tonight and charge my 3s and 4s packs. Installed the 32mm props and used blue loctite on the prop screw. I noticed that the pro nuts from venom won't fit on jeffs shafts. There's still a large gap. Good think I ordered 2 sets of those from Jeffs shop. Installed hopefully that locktite works. Have another left but the right is being shipped as we speak. Very big difference with the machined props to the regular aluminum. There balanced the others are not. Wish venom had told people. We will see if these motors can handle the 4s. I better not loose a prop. I will shat myself.

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    • forescott
      Hopelessly Addicted to RC
      • Nov 2009
      • 2686

      #17
      Originally posted by VIKOS
      Well go my pro machined props in today. I better not loose a prop. I will shat myself.
      You should be fine! Goiod luck with the motors! I hope they hold up! The machined props are nice, arent they!!

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      • VIKOS
        Senior Member
        • Jan 2010
        • 204

        #18
        Yeah kinda don't want to use them other than on the boat for display lol. But this thing was made for hauling a$$ so that's what she'll do. Plus cas boat props are in the hundreds so don't feel so bad. Anyone try a 4 prop yet on a cat. I see the bigger boats using it. Or would this ve way to much torque for these boats. I gear they like to cut thru the water

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        • forescott
          Hopelessly Addicted to RC
          • Nov 2009
          • 2686

          #19
          I would think more blades means more motor load. The full size boats are running 5-blade props, but they are producing loads of torque, and are only running around 6k rpm.

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          • VIKOS
            Senior Member
            • Jan 2010
            • 204

            #20
            True true. Ran today on 3s then flushed motors with cold water. Motors where cool. Esc never gets above warm ever. The batteries where a bit warm but I think that's just from the Caribbean sun. Then I put in the 4s. Wow is all I can say. Took two hard passes then a cool down pass then repeated. Boat was a bit sloppy due to water conditions. Flipped once not going fast. Hull tape is amazing. I say at least 40mph on 32mm machined props and rcracingboats flex shafts and motor coupler. The water cooling tubing kept coming out so cut 1/4 ran great. Don't think I'll go more than 4s. Took a vid but long due to me jumping in the water for boat. Will take another. Gas boats and nitros here have no chance. Maybe due to water conditions but give me a calm day and it's over. Props stayed on due to blue locktite lol. Can't wait for 10xl's and bigger props say 36mm and turnigy 180A esc. And additional cooling. Boat held up on 4s. It's those that WOT that seem to damage their boats. Remember at top speed I don't think your getting as good cooling as half speed. But then my cooling tube came off. I did notice that they work. Water was shooting straight up in the air about 7 feet above the boat. Thought the rudder cooling screw had came out.

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            • VIKOS
              Senior Member
              • Jan 2010
              • 204

              #21
              Does anyone think removing the antenna and making it internal would cause the signal to drop. Also noticed that the plugs to receiver the right motor side red wire isn't being used. There's no connecting pin. Left side has one. So seems one battery does servo. One battery does receiver. When batteries reach there cut off it's almost impossible to turn making it a slow haul back to the driver.

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              • forescott
                Hopelessly Addicted to RC
                • Nov 2009
                • 2686

                #22
                Originally posted by VIKOS
                Then I put in the 4s. Wow is all I can say. Can't wait for 10xl's and bigger props say 36mm and turnigy 180A esc.
                380 xl's are a whole different animal on the ekos. You wont need 540's. Youll get 50mph easy. And the 120amp esc's are plenty big enough.(even for 540's) The turnigy/seaking 180's are much bigger than the 120's and you will have trouble fitting them in the hull. Glad to hear your motors survived 4s!

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                • VIKOS
                  Senior Member
                  • Jan 2010
                  • 204

                  #23
                  Lol me to still want to order the xl's and I guess turnigy 120's. Any issues running them with the receiver. Can u still tune the esc from the transmitter. Sucks that most of these components die out with normal use. Less than a year I hear motors,esc etc.

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                  • forescott
                    Hopelessly Addicted to RC
                    • Nov 2009
                    • 2686

                    #24
                    The turnigys just plug into the stock "Y" harness.

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                    • forescott
                      Hopelessly Addicted to RC
                      • Nov 2009
                      • 2686

                      #25
                      Programming is identical, using the transmitters. All the settings are the same.

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                      • forescott
                        Hopelessly Addicted to RC
                        • Nov 2009
                        • 2686

                        #26
                        My esc's always worked fine for me until I started using bigger props. I think the ekos would fare better with something in the 80 amp range. Those little motors pull more amps than you think, especially when you start propping up!

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                        • VIKOS
                          Senior Member
                          • Jan 2010
                          • 204

                          #27
                          So keeping say at 32mm at 4s is fine on the stock 60amp esc. 120 amp esc work with say 40mm metal props then. But I'm sure run times are decreased. So for best speed and run time the 32mm seem the way to go. How long do those turnigys last say if I ran every weekend. Lifespan in motors and esc are short. Even being brushless you'd probably do better with brush motors.

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                          • LarrysDrifter
                            Big Booty Daddy
                            • May 2010
                            • 3278

                            #28
                            Originally posted by VIKOS
                            Does anyone think removing the antenna and making it internal would cause the signal to drop. Also noticed that the plugs to receiver the right motor side red wire isn't being used. There's no connecting pin. Left side has one. So seems one battery does servo. One battery does receiver. When batteries reach there cut off it's almost impossible to turn making it a slow haul back to the driver.
                            The RX can only get power through one battery.Thats why the red wire is cut.If you power the RX with too much voltage itll burn up instantly.Since these boats are made for all people they cut the wire.The right way is to unplug it and put heat shrink over it and tape or zip tie it out of the way.So,Id say its cut because somone with no experience might plug it in and then blow the RX.Im not exactly sure but I think the nominal voltage for a RX is 6 volts.So I guess if you run say two 2s lipos then it would be over powered since one battery is 7.4 volts.Maybe the RX has a step down voltage regulator.Not quite sure but it works.And I wouldnt mess with the antenna.Just leave it or buy a Tactic system that has no antenna and use an antenna tube plug(the little black cap you put on top of the tube)over the antenna mount on the hull.Hope that helps.

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