Piano Wire Shafts

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  • Jeff Wohlt
    Fast Electric Addict!
    • Jan 2008
    • 2716

    #16
    You can detongue those 442s and lighten the load. I have also squared off the tips with good results that make it a 40mm
    www.rcraceboat.com

    [email protected]

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    • nomobux
      Senior Member
      • Apr 2007
      • 165

      #17
      Originally posted by Jeff Wohlt
      Did you grind a flat spot on the wires? Yes, make sure you tighten them down equally. There should not be a wobble. Make sure the wire is not doing it.

      If you can see it then on slow running then there may be an issue.
      Jeff. Are you saying you need flats on the wire ??

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      • forescott
        Hopelessly Addicted to RC
        • Nov 2009
        • 2686

        #18
        Originally posted by Jeff Wohlt
        You can detongue those 442s and lighten the load. I have also squared off the tips with good results that make it a 40mm
        I had Chuck Genge do that for me already. Still runs pretty hot.

        Comment

        • Jeff Wohlt
          Fast Electric Addict!
          • Jan 2008
          • 2716

          #19
          You certainly should put a slight flat on any wire drive. I make it flat all the way out past the coupler so I can see where the set screws are going to touch it. If not then you slightly tighten the set screw and turn the shaft until you fill the easy part hit and then you lock it down. Do not grind TOO much off just a file of a flat area is good.

          If not they will spin under big props or high torque. This also aloows you not to have to tighten the set screws so tight you stip them...use loctite!!
          www.rcraceboat.com

          [email protected]

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          • Jeepers
            Fast Electric Addict!
            • May 2007
            • 1973

            #20
            Originally posted by forescott
            I do not reccomend the 442's with the 9xl's. I ran that setup this last weekend and the motors were very hot. I would go no larger than the cf-40's on the 9xl.
            Interesting that you say that. I used a 9xl and a442 in a mono on 4s2p 5000 (10,000mah) and the prop was s/b and detounged. and I it never got hot at all speeds was in the mid to upper 40s. this was in a mono. I wonder whats making your temps so high? bind in the driveline etc?

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            • T.C.
              Senior Member
              • Sep 2009
              • 236

              #21
              I make my owne wire drives and use Jeff's coupler, I also put a flat on the wire but it looks more like a notch.
              It looks like a notch because I only have the flat at one set screw, this keeps the wire in the center of the coupler as it's still supported on each side of the set screw.
              It also makes it stronger, every wire I have broken has been at the flat, the flat is only there to keep the wire from spinning, the second set of set screws hold it in place, those are the ones closest to the stuff tube.
              I also tighten the sets at the flat carefully as you can bend and weaken the wire if not.
              I snug the side with the flat and then tighten the opposite side, then go back to the side with the flat and retighten it.
              I also solder my wires to the stub shaft, but that's another story.
              Hope this helps?
              T.C.

              Comment

              • forescott
                Hopelessly Addicted to RC
                • Nov 2009
                • 2686

                #22
                Originally posted by Jeepers
                Interesting that you say that. I used a 9xl and a442 in a mono on 4s2p 5000 (10,000mah) and the prop was s/b and detounged. and I it never got hot at all speeds was in the mid to upper 40s. this was in a mono. I wonder whats making your temps so high? bind in the driveline etc?
                Are we talkin 380xl or 540xl?? I have the 380-9xl's.

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