New Rudder and Water Pick-ups for EKOS...

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  • Team Jericho
    Member
    • May 2010
    • 87

    #1

    New Rudder and Water Pick-ups for EKOS...

    I am running my new EKOS with 3S 4800 Ma 25 C's, and Venom machined 36mm props. She runs great and my nitro buddies raising their eyebrows at the pond yesterday!
    One problem I have with the EKOS is the water pick-up system it uses, quite flimsy as it is, intake tubes come loose, slippage etc. Looking for a better solution/kit would be awesome. Has anyone an idea for that?
    In the meantime I want to use the plugged water pick-up in the rudder as an extra source of cooling, in preparation for the 4S Lipos I have on order ( I expect the standard 2850 motors to burn out soon anyway). Does anyone have experience with modifying existing water intake system on the EKOS?
    Thanks guys!
  • forescott
    Hopelessly Addicted to RC
    • Nov 2009
    • 2686

    #2
    I installed these! Get em here at ose. A tight fit though!
    Attached Files

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    • Team Jericho
      Member
      • May 2010
      • 87

      #3
      Well done! But how did you cut the openings in hull so precisely? Not sure if I am at that level yet...and do you keep the stardard rudder mechanism then and just take off the flimsy intake tubes? Thanks for your tips.

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      • Igoreski
        Member
        • Apr 2010
        • 77

        #4
        Rudder fitting.

        OSE sells the 4mm fitting for a couple bucks and it works good,I cool my ESCs with the rudder and the motors with the stock ones.Each one has its own exit port on the hull so you know the water is flowing.I got those fittings there also.Forescott has done it the best way,but like you I was worried about wrecking the hull so I got 3 different size brass tubes and made the part that goes into the water 1 size smaller and longer than stock.I used the larger than stock tube to make collars to hold the system in place.Once mocked up I soldered the tubes together with regular solder and now the tubes are tight.If you need to remove you will have to use a solder gun or micro torch.I used larger water line through the whole system.
        Attached Files

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        • forescott
          Hopelessly Addicted to RC
          • Nov 2009
          • 2686

          #5
          Originally posted by Team Jericho
          Well done! But how did you cut the openings in hull so precisely? Not sure if I am at that level yet...and do you keep the stardard rudder mechanism then and just take off the flimsy intake tubes? Thanks for your tips.
          I set the pick-ups inside the hull where I wanted them to go. Marked one of the corners with a sharpie. Then drilled a tiny hole through the hull from the inside. Then I cut a thick piece of paper the exact size of the square hole to be removed, flipped the boat over and lined it up with the hole I drilled(making sure the template was squared up with the sponsons) and traced the outside of the template with a sharp pencil. The rest was easy. Just took a dremmel tool with the right bit to grind out the fiberglass up to the template marks. Then just drop the pick-up in from the inside and spread epoxy around the top and sides. Its kinda tedious, but worth the effort.

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          • forescott
            Hopelessly Addicted to RC
            • Nov 2009
            • 2686

            #6
            I removed the stock brass water pick-up tubes and filled the water line holes with epoxy.

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            • forescott
              Hopelessly Addicted to RC
              • Nov 2009
              • 2686

              #7
              Originally posted by Igoreski
              OSE sells the 4mm fitting for a couple bucks and it works good,I cool my ESCs with the rudder and the motors with the stock ones.Each one has its own exit port on the hull so you know the water is flowing.I got those fittings there also.Forescott has done it the best way,but like you I was worried about wrecking the hull so I got 3 different size brass tubes and made the part that goes into the water 1 size smaller and longer than stock.I used the larger than stock tube to make collars to hold the system in place.Once mocked up I soldered the tubes together with regular solder and now the tubes are tight.If you need to remove you will have to use a solder gun or micro torch.I used larger water line through the whole system.
              Igoreski, how do you like those 442's?? Mine are being worked on by eggneg as we speak. Are yours de-toungued?

              Comment

              • tiqueman
                Fast Electric Addict!
                • Jul 2009
                • 5669

                #8
                Forescott, My 32" HOTR, (pretty much identical hull) went 3mph faster from stock 442 to my Egneg worked, detongued and cupped 442s Im .2 off 70mph. Hope yours are as succesful. Chuck does great work.

                Also, I used the same pickups (aluminum thru hull from OSE), but used a single on each side rather than the dual. Just as said, tedious, but well worth the effort.
                Geico epoxy laminate hatch sale thread Black Jack epoxy laminate hatch sale thread
                HPR06 6S Twin HOTR Genesis (SOLD) Vantex 32" cat Geico racing
                WEST FL MODEL BOAT CLUB www.scottskiracing.com

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                • Team Jericho
                  Member
                  • May 2010
                  • 87

                  #9
                  Thanks for all the ideas guys. I also want to use the rudder intake(that is not being used stock) for extra cooling in my plans..does OSE sell that one little fitting (don't know what its called) that screws into the top of rudder where hose is normally attached?

                  Comment

                  • Team Jericho
                    Member
                    • May 2010
                    • 87

                    #10
                    Hey Igoeski, I like your cooling solution and just saw the pic of your set-up. Cool, I also want to use the rudder intake... Can you please send me the part nr. or link at OSE for that fitting on top of the rudder blade where the hose attaches? I wish to stick with the stock tubing size for now though...

                    PS: Gettting a custom paint job in the coming weeks for my EKOS because I already crashed on a rock racing with my brother, should be cool. I will put up pics when the work is done.

                    Comment

                    • forescott
                      Hopelessly Addicted to RC
                      • Nov 2009
                      • 2686

                      #11
                      Here is the link for water fittings....http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=etti-a030

                      Comment

                      • forescott
                        Hopelessly Addicted to RC
                        • Nov 2009
                        • 2686

                        #12
                        I personally am not a big fan of turn fin style water pick-ups. They tend to lose pressure when you turn the opposite way of the inlet hole. I would use the turn fin pick-up seperate for the motor mount cooling, that way if pressure is lost you wont lose all your cooling to the motors.

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                        • forescott
                          Hopelessly Addicted to RC
                          • Nov 2009
                          • 2686

                          #13
                          Originally posted by tiqueman
                          Forescott, My 32" HOTR, (pretty much identical hull) went 3mph faster from stock 442 to my Egneg worked, detongued and cupped 442s Im .2 off 70mph. Hope yours are as succesful. Chuck does great work.

                          Also, I used the same pickups (aluminum thru hull from OSE), but used a single on each side rather than the dual. Just as said, tedious, but well worth the effort.
                          Im gettin 55mph out of the feigao 9xl's(2612kv) on 4s, and a pair of cf-40's. But the prop hubs are wider than the drive dogs so I dont really like the fit. Wow, 55 looks insanely fast to me, 70mph must be soo close to blowover on that hull!

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                          • Jeff Wohlt
                            Fast Electric Addict!
                            • Jan 2008
                            • 2716

                            #14
                            Might try to taper that hubs down...easy to do with a file.
                            www.rcraceboat.com

                            [email protected]

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                            • forescott
                              Hopelessly Addicted to RC
                              • Nov 2009
                              • 2686

                              #15
                              Yeah, I have a couple of props from chuck already. He does such a nice job. Its not even worth it to me to do my own. I dont really enjoy prop work!
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