Heavily modding a Spartan...moving strut to fix chine walk?

[lt130th]

I've heard the only 100% certain method of correcting chine walk in this hull is to move the strut (in reference to the transom) upwards approx. 1/8" and to the left/right a few millimeters. Anyone have any data to support this before I go through the trouble? If this is the best fix, I'll remove & drill out the aluminum strut mounts to allow repositioning. I'm lining the entire inside of this hull (except for battery trays and transom) with carbon fiber cloth using West Systems G-Flex 655, so I'll run the carbon down the floor and over the stuffing tube exit. Then I'll fill the old exit with epoxy and drill a new exit for the stuffing tube, G-Flex it in place and toss that rubber grommet. SO, before I go through all that I want to know if this is really going to stop any and all chine walk. I also have a 6inch rudder on it to help, and split trim tabs.

Thanks,
Michael P.

[kfxguy]

I've heard the only 100% certain method of correcting chine walk in this hull is to move the strut (in reference to the transom) upwards approx. 1/8" and to the left/right a few millimeters. Anyone have any data to support this before I go through the trouble? If this is the best fix, I'll remove & drill out the aluminum strut mounts to allow repositioning. I'm lining the entire inside of this hull (except for battery trays and transom) with carbon fiber cloth using West Systems G-Flex 655, so I'll run the carbon down the floor and over the stuffing tube exit. Then I'll fill the old exit with epoxy and drill a new exit for the stuffing tube, G-Flex it in place and toss that rubber grommet. SO, before I go through all that I want to know if this is really going to stop any and all chine walk. I also have a 6inch rudder on it to help, and split trim tabs.

Thanks,
Michael P.

So your going to do a carbon fiber inlay on a plastic hull? Interesting.

[lt130th]

Yep. Could be a complete waste of time, but I bought this hull before I knew very much about marine RC, and I kind of refuse to give up on it. Seems like a lot of people have a love/hate relationship with the Spartan. It gets attention because it has cool looks and is advertised with a lot of speed hype, but the turn-offs are the overpriced plastic hull and hardware. So I'm on a mission to turn this thing into the boat it should be without trying to mock up a complete fiberglass copy from scratch. If the CF inlay works out like I hope, then this particular Spartan could hopefully be taken a bit more seriously. I'm also G-Flexing some G-10 bulkheads up in the bow, and adding a little expanding foam. I've made a lexan sub-hatch to help water-tight the hull. I have a new TP 4060 here and a couple Leo 4082's...don't know which one yet, but one of the three is going into this boat backed by a SF 220A Pro. I'm also having monojeff work up a full wrap. We'll see how it goes. If nothing else, the carbon inlay will be good practice before I tackle the Shocker.

[Spartanator]

Now this I will be watching... Not to say it won't work but I am curious. I am also in Texas, where are you in here? I'm down near Kemah/League City.

[lt130th]

DFW. I was thinking...what if I push the loose foam core inside the bow as far forward as it will go without bursting the seam...then g-flex a G-10 phenolic bulkhead against it to hold the foam core firmly in place while acting as a support for the hull. Then sanding and g-flexing a one-piece layer of carbon fiber cloth to the entire exterior of the hull & finish it with a few layers of clear resin, wet-sanded & clear-coated. It would be a single-layer carbon fiber shell of a Spartan, reinforced by the underlying abs hull. Hmmmm. Is it really worth the work & time? I'm thinking it's not, but it certainly would be one of a kind.

[PowerDemon]

Yeah for the price of all this work and labor you could build a totally sweet cat. I love the Spartan but I don't think it is worth the time you would spend on it. You could buy a better boat for the same price that would be more advanced than the Spartan. JMO

[lt130th]

It sounds that way, but actually for a one-piece 3k, 2x2 twill inlay I'm looking at $25 for one yard, locally, and the West Systems G-flex 655 is $20. Labor involved is busting out the foam core that is loose anyway, mocking up a template to cut the cf cloth, glove up to my shoulder and spread the G-flex up inside the bow...then lay down the cloth and press/roll it in. Let it dry and go over the top with West 105/207 or something, then two bulkheads can be G-flexed in. All done. Putty up the holes, install a monojeff wrap and put all the hardware back in. Drop in Traxxas's powertrain sled with my motor, ESC, servo and RX. Done.

My cost for the Spartan hull and hardware minus electronics was under $180. I just spent over $400 on a Fightercat CF Shocker and with the internals It's quickly approaching $1,000, if I haven't already passed that mark. I try NOT to keep track, haha.

*EDIT* I forgot about my post above on a full carbon body wrap. If that's what you were referencing, then yeah I sort of agree. I mean laying the fiber is as easy as sanding, cleaning, mixing epoxy and applying the cloth uniformly. The hard part would be trying to get a completely smooth exterior surface by adding layers of epoxy and sanding in between. That's the part I'm thinking would be a little too much trouble for this hull. I think the cf inlay and monojeff wrap is a much more realistic approach.

[PowerDemon]

Yes I agree with the wrap and inlay. What are you putting in the spartan electronics wise?

[kfxguy]

O man, you will punch yourself in the face after you start trying to wrap the whole boat. Then on top of that your lines won't be as sharp. You have issues sanding through the resin trying to sharpen it all up. It will need to be really thick. I say it's not worth it.

[lt130th]

Yes I agree with the wrap and inlay. What are you putting in the spartan electronics wise?

Most likely one of my Leopard 4082 1600kv's and one of my Swordfish 220A Pro ESC's for 6s. Have a CNC 48mm 2-blade to push it and a Wholt wire drive on the way.

O man, you will punch yourself in the face after you start trying to wrap the whole boat. Then on top of that your lines won't be as sharp. You have issues sanding through the resin trying to sharpen it all up. It will need to be really thick. I say it's not worth it.

I certainly don't like punches in the face.