ESC leads are coming unsodered......

[mrproc1]

Hey ya'll
Last two outings, each time an ESC lead has come undone at the plug. Has anyone updated, or inproved the stock plugs......

[stadiumyamaha]

Tin the post on the esc and the wire. Then put the wire on the post and hold your iron on the wire until they both flow together then remove iron until solid.

[Make-a-Wake]

Either your setup is way too "hot" i.e. too much amp draw, or you are getting 'cold' solders.

[stadiumyamaha]

I was surprised to see it come from castle not soldered. It was sort of a pain to get right. same posts as the castle caps board.

[mrproc1]

Can you explain tining the post?
Well they are coming undone while running with an X or M 445, but ive run the set up many times with no problems.

[stadiumyamaha]

Just like you tin the cable. Heat the post and get some solder on the area you will be attaching the wire to.

[stadiumyamaha]

What batteries are you using?

[mrproc1]

Yesterday I ran the 3 cells just fine, and the lead came off when running the 2 cells.
But when running with the 3 cells and the 445 prop, just as I got to full throttle, it would shut off. Is there to much load with the 445 prop and the 3 cells?

[dag-nabit]

If you are running the 445 on 6s with the stock ESC you are flirting with a premature ESC failure, IMO.

It is widely recommended to stay with either a 442 or Prather 215 with the stock electrics.

With that prop it is possible you are drawing too much amp load and creating enough heat to melt the solder. It should be obvious though, are the connectors/wiring extremely hot to the touch after running?

The Traxxas connectors are rated quite well for high amp draw applications so they should work without overheating through the connector. I switched all my connectors over to EC5's, but only because I wanted to standardize with my other boats.

Kevin

[Make-a-Wake]

445 is too much prop for 6s on stock electronics.

[stadiumyamaha]

I'll only run a 445 on 4s. On 6 you are going to see a failure.

[mrproc1]

Thanks for all the help fellas, Ive got a seaking. 120 coming now.... hopefully that should help. What should it be programmed at for a stock Spartan motor?

[dag-nabit]

I don't know enough about the stock motor to be certain of accurate suggestions.

The wind type of the motor, Wye wind (Y) or Delta wind (D), will determine how high you can set your timing advance. Y wound motors will tolerate higher timing advances, D wound motors won't. Unless you are able to confirm the wind type, I would suggest keeping timing advance between 0-3 degrees to be on the safe side.

I always set my ESC for forward only, reverse tends to want to fill boats with water. Keeping the hatch well taped etc. reduces that risk. This is really personal preference.

If you switch between 4S and 6S setups set cell count to Auto Detect. If you run the same battery setup all the time set the cell count to the appropriate number. (4 for 4S, 6 for 6S, etc.)

I run T180's in my Spartans and Fightercat, and T120's in my SV27's. I find the LVC on the T180's cuts in too early. The T120's seem more accurate. Start with LVC set at 3.4v and check your battery voltage and residual capacity after running, you can adjust the LVC lower if necessary to maximize run time while still providing good protection for the batteries.

Kevin

[mrproc1]

Thanks Kevin. I don't have a programming card just yet, will get one soon. Like always you ways have the answers, and explain perfectly.