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I read somewhere that someone was trying to put bearings in the strut instead of the bushings. Just wanted to know if that worked, it sounds like a good idea.
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I just ordered some bearings.......should be in within the week, i'll let you know how they work out.NEED PARALLEL CONNECTORS?? QUALITY 5.5MM, 8MM, 8 AND 10 AWG, GET THEM HERE:
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...est!&highlight= -
I just did it today (two 5mmX8mmX2.5mm bearings) and it worked great. I'm not sure how long they'll last but it does seem to spin better for now.
SuzukiproComment
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Some pics of bearing install...
Bushing pushed in 3-4mm
rear bearing
front bearing
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Hi Orca,
Are these 2 bearings the same? The first picture seems to have a small flange or shoulder on it, but it could just be the pic. Are these the same bearings as Make-a-Wake specified above?
I know its common practice to just use brass bushings, the commenst I have read and heard have all said they work perfectly fine and are far less maintainence than a bearing, but I can't help but think this would have to be a more efficient and "true" method of doing a drive setup. As these bearings don't take angular load, I was thinking of building something with a shouldered face and running a thrust bearing on the drive dog face, or running an angular contact bearing in the rear housing to take thrust loads off the shaft and motor as well........
6BOOST6boost Turbo Manifolds, Australia's number 1 turbo kit specialist and manufacturer
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if you look closely i'n my pic ( you may have to zoom), you'll see a thrust bearing , I'm still running the stock bushings/ drive dog in this spartan, I will however be trying out bearings i'n my updated hull project spartan , gonna try to get ceramic bearings from acer... I'll try to take a better pic tomorrow of the thrust bearing... Got them from wohlts Rc boats .....off of ose .... Let us kno how it goes !
Scott Spartan#1: castle hydra ice 240 castle 2200 Prather 220 turnigy 5.0 45c lipos with max amps water pump... Spartan#2: leopard 1800, octura 440 ,traxxas 8400 mah 25c lipos.....updated deeper hull....Comment
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I have some OSE thrust bearings, however an angular contact bearing would serve 2 purposes in one bearing, thrust AND radial loads, the same as a performance turbocharger. If all else fails I'll just use a seperate thrust bearing, but I'd like to investigate the angular contact bearing first. Boca make them, but I don't think small enough for this type of job. Radial bearing yes, but not angular contact. The seach will go on=P
6BOOST6boost Turbo Manifolds, Australia's number 1 turbo kit specialist and manufacturerComment
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Gotcha! Good luck! And keep us posted!
Scott Spartan#1: castle hydra ice 240 castle 2200 Prather 220 turnigy 5.0 45c lipos with max amps water pump... Spartan#2: leopard 1800, octura 440 ,traxxas 8400 mah 25c lipos.....updated deeper hull....Comment
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I can't see why it would make any difference or be a negative at the prop end? Providing it doesn't stick out past the strut surfaces to create drag. Has be be better than a telfon/nylon/brass washer? And the reason I like the idea of running it at the prop end is no force on the flex shaft, motor or coupler if its at the prop end, and easy to adjust and set correctly. Unlike the motor end which can be a major hassle.
6BOOST6boost Turbo Manifolds, Australia's number 1 turbo kit specialist and manufacturerComment
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How are you supposed to put it at the motor end? It fits on the machined part of the flex cable... And it takes place of tht plastic washer which is there to cushion the flex shaft when it's torqued up... When under power the flex cable pulls inward,(only when going forward)... Thts my understanding of it...Scott Spartan#1: castle hydra ice 240 castle 2200 Prather 220 turnigy 5.0 45c lipos with max amps water pump... Spartan#2: leopard 1800, octura 440 ,traxxas 8400 mah 25c lipos.....updated deeper hull....Comment
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Interesting. Here's what I was thinking when I asked: a) the open bearing is in the water, subject to particles of sand, etc, and corrosion. b) having the open bearing submerged would add drag to the bearing. c) The flex shaft cannot contract from winding up due changes in torque because the bearing is holding one end and the motor, the other. You normally leave a gap between the prop drive dog and the strut/stinger for this reason... the Teflon washer is there just in case you didn't leave enough, not to routinely take the thrust.
You mount it on the motor shaft, aft of the motor mount, so it bears the forward force from the drive line against the motor mount instead of against the motor bearings.
Take it easy,
desmobobComment
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Do you have pics of how you install it on the motor side ? I'm puzzled on how to do on a spartan ....Scott Spartan#1: castle hydra ice 240 castle 2200 Prather 220 turnigy 5.0 45c lipos with max amps water pump... Spartan#2: leopard 1800, octura 440 ,traxxas 8400 mah 25c lipos.....updated deeper hull....Comment
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I'm not familiar with the way a Spartan is set up, but you can see a couple of thrust bearing applications below....
See post #6 here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...thrust+bearing
Or the third photo in post #71 here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...bearing&page=3
Take it easy,
desmobobComment
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You have to have a gap on the prop end to allow the cable to shrink. A thrust bearing on the strut will only make more drag by not allowing the cable to do so. Some people get away with it, no clue how.
You want the thrust bearing to take the load where the motor is mounted. An angular contact bearing would be interesting. Boca doesn't have one small enough though, and you would have the load transmitted through the motor can, relying on the bolts to hold the end caps on. Not that it isn't happening already, but it think that load disturbs the position of the rotor in the stators magnetic field.
This is the old motor, but they are essentially the same on the shaft end. The white spacers are two tamiya 1150 bushings totaling 8mm of space on the shaft.
The bearings on the strut should just allow the stub to slide through.
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