So close, chine walk issue.

[Zx14187]

Stock Spartan, 5s 5000 packs, I've been trying to get this thing to run straight and level all day, I'm very close but stumped.
As of now I can hold full power for a second or so in a straight line before the wobble starts, it keeps getting worse untill I back out of the throttle.
I've moved the battery's to the front and back and everywhere in between. I've played with the trim tabs moving them down flush with the hull with little improvement.
As of now I can hold full power and keep the boat from chine walking only by keeping a small amount of rudder one way or the other.
Any advise?

[dag-nabit]

Pretty much mirrors my experience, except I can usually get a stable ride with batteries well forward, at the expense of speed.

What motor, ESC and prop are you running?

Kevin

[Zx14187]

Stock motor and esc (castle) stock prop.

[dana]

do you have a 3 blade you can try?

[Zx14187]

No, but I can order one, what would you recommend?

[Fluid]

This quote is from nitro racer John Finch, and while he is speaking about a specific nitro mono (so the exact dimensions quoted may not apply here), this is the best single description of chine walking and its cures I've seen.

The further back the prop the higher it must be out of the water to let the transom of the boat settle into the water for control. So raise the strut and prop. If you shorten the strut an inch that will help too, but cut an inch off the trim tabs too. If the prop is off to the right or left of centerline the boat will be lifted on that side as well, and that starts to control the boat half way down the straightaway when the boat is easily influenced by the lift of the prop. At slower speeds and acceleration you don't see the problem because the boat is not yet balancing on the prop. The turn fins are not the problem because you don't see the problem when accelerating. The centerline of the strut should be about 5/8ths of an inch above the transom vee when the prop is about 3 to 4 inches from the transom to get good control. It is imperative that the prop be centered unless the rudder causes lift when the boat airs out. If the rudder lifts the right side of the boat then you can shift the prop to the left of centerline to compensate for rudder lift. Deeper rudders cause more lift. Keep in mind all these little things don't have much effect at average speeds, but if you get the boat aired out and going fast they then become your tuning devices. John Finch

[dag-nabit]

I'm not saying don't try a three blade prop, but I tried a couple different ones and found they cavitated too much. Others experience may differ, but based on my experience I'm not sure you will be happy with results, or, that it will do anything to help the chine walking problem.

Kevin

[JT13031]

Mine runs great on 5s and videos to prove no chinewalking. However when I'm running 5s I have a 4s on the otherside to balance it out and therfor more weight and both packs are at the most forward position. I may be losing some speed but it runs flat and smooth. It will spinout in a hard corner like this but not always. I have flipped it running like this too, a hard corner while hitting a wave that got me airborne, when it hit the water it flipped.

[dana]

3blades cavitate more, no doubt, but on my deep v I did notice less chinewalk with the 3 blade. I'm not saying this is a solution, or if it will work fir your boat, but if you had one around it would be worth a try.

[Zx14187]

When I run with just one 5s pack plugged up and tge other in for ballast it runs smooth, but it's a bit slower that's for sure.
Thanks for all the input everyone, I'll start with moving the strut up a bit and test it.