New Motor and Maybe New ESC

[dmwilson09]

Well.... Got my motor and esc back from traxxas today and to my suprise.... there is a new motor and maybe a new esc (looks the same). The motor is a new design, maybe 10 mm longer and feels like its better made just by turning the rotor. There is no longer a temp sensor on the motor any more either. Well check out the picture below, I will try an get a run in tomorrow!!!!

[roadrashracing]

If they do have new motors, I hope there is an exchange program

[dmwilson09]

Well, I ended up being able to take her out today and i have to say i am impressed. The motor only got up to 124 and the esc was around 110. I dont think to boat will go 50 mph but it does seem like a reliable boat finally.

[roadrashracing]

Any noticeable difference besides temps?

[GeoVW72]

Thanks for the info dmwilson09
I doubt they changed the esc, that's why it's slow. I already tried a 4 pole, You have to watch when the prop unloads because the esc will cog out(cogging puts a large load on the esc, just let off if the prop goes airborne or the boat stutters) due to the limited drive frequency of the esc.

I thought everything was just fine the way it is
Defeating their own safety feature also seems like a bad idea, the mount screws are still on the back of the can and that's the spot to get hot first.

Unfortunately the motor is only a small part of the problem, those that have already replaced the motor and esc still have the issue of drive line failures. Which is also the direct cause of the motor failures.

The drive line is mis-aligned when installed in the boat:

When you take the stock stuffing tube and drive shaft with the tray out of the boat, they line up well.

After you install the tray into the hull the drive shaft does slides in easily because the soldered end is rounded.
What you don't notice is that the stuffing tube has moved a 1/4" lower in the rear, under the servo in the guide, and the plastic mounting has flexed to angle the tube up, making as S out of a single bend, outside the tubing.
THAT is what Traxxas over looking. The mis-alignment heats the drive line up and ups the amp draw until the stock motor de-magnetizes, I guess they hope the 4 pole will just push through to LVC or truly pop the esc.

And THAT is what I'm currently working on, re-aligning and re-constructing the drive line

First prototype, do not attempt to duplicate.

I WILL do a "how to" after I get it to work properly.

Geo
Traxxas Spartan Re-Designer

[mtnbiker94]

Hmmmmm, good to know! I've been running mine on 6s with the stock motor and esc and the only upgrades for cooling I have is the OSE cooling jacket, bigger lines, drilled out rudder pickup and a second pickup. The motor temps have been around ehh 140 and the ESC at 90 or so. Hopefully she won't die on me!

Unfortunately the motor is only a small part of the problem, those that have already replaced the motor and esc still have the issue of drive line failures. Which is also the direct cause of the motor failures.

The drive line is mis-aligned when installed in the boat:

When you take the stock stuffing tube and drive shaft with the tray out of the boat, they line up well.

After you install the tray into the hull the drive shaft does slides in easily because the soldered end is rounded.
What you don't notice is that the stuffing tube has moved a 1/4" lower in the rear, under the servo in the guide, and the plastic mounting has flexed to angle the tube up, making as S out of a single bend, outside the tubing.
THAT is what Traxxas over looking. The mis-alignment heats the drive line up and ups the amp draw until the stock motor de-magnetizes, I guess they hope the 4 pole will just push through to LVC or truly pop the esc.

And THAT is what I'm currently working on, re-aligning and re-constructing the drive line

First prototype, do not attempt to duplicate.

I WILL do a "how to" after I get it to work properly.

Geo
Traxxas Spartan Re-Designer

I didn't realize that that's why it was really overheating or that it was a problem?

[the5]

That looks like a lepord or castle motor. Pretty sure castle becuase the new Version of Castle Link has a Traxxas Marine in it.

[dmwilson09]

Thanks for the info dmwilson09
I doubt they changed the esc, that's why it's slow. I already tried a 4 pole, You have to watch when the prop unloads because the esc will cog out(cogging puts a large load on the esc, just let off if the prop goes airborne or the boat stutters) due to the limited drive frequency of the esc.

I thought everything was just fine the way it is
Defeating their own safety feature also seems like a bad idea, the mount screws are still on the back of the can and that's the spot to get hot first.

Unfortunately the motor is only a small part of the problem, those that have already replaced the motor and esc still have the issue of drive line failures. Which is also the direct cause of the motor failures.

The drive line is mis-aligned when installed in the boat:

When you take the stock stuffing tube and drive shaft with the tray out of the boat, they line up well.

After you install the tray into the hull the drive shaft does slides in easily because the soldered end is rounded.
What you don't notice is that the stuffing tube has moved a 1/4" lower in the rear, under the servo in the guide, and the plastic mounting has flexed to angle the tube up, making as S out of a single bend, outside the tubing.
THAT is what Traxxas over looking. The mis-alignment heats the drive line up and ups the amp draw until the stock motor de-magnetizes, I guess they hope the 4 pole will just push through to LVC or truly pop the esc.

And THAT is what I'm currently working on, re-aligning and re-constructing the drive line

First prototype, do not attempt to duplicate.

I WILL do a "how to" after I get it to work properly.

Geo
Traxxas Spartan Re-Designer

I think the re-design of this motor fixed a huge part of the Spartan's problem. For the average person who goes and picks one of these up now, I believe they are buying a pretty reliable boat.

Now about the drive line:

The last time I sent my motor and esc back, they sent me a new stuffing tube. Now i dont know if that was the fix, because it did look to be the same one, but I have yet to have any heat issue with my drive line. The brass is not even dis-colored. The only issue I have had with the drive line is having to re-grease it every run.

[Brushless55]

That looks like a lepord or castle motor. Pretty sure castle becuase the new Version of Castle Link has a Traxxas Marine in it.

its from the Lepard family

[spartanonfire]

I just got my new motor back and they sent a new ESC with it. (I had only sent the motor back to them as the ESC was fine) The response from them was for me to "not use the original ESC" as the tuning parameters were different with the new motor. Can't wait to try it out.

[lincpimp]

its from the Lepard family

I got a "quasi confimation" from the pres of CC saying it is a 1420 1y 1492kv motor, so it is not a leopard.

[Brushless55]

I got a "quasi confimation" from the pres of CC saying it is a 1420 1y 1492kv motor, so it is not a leopard.

without any Castle markings on this new motor I wont buy that for one minute
Leopard makes 1y motors and this is the length I think of a 4074 Leopard

[slowride]

I blew out the ESC, sent it back and Traxxas, they sent me a new ESC and Motor plus gave me two new batteries. Thank you Traxxas. Upon installing the new parts I discovered the flex shaft and brass tube melted and will have to be replaced so im still in dry dock.

[roadrashracing]

Is the dia. of the new motor the same as the old motor? I got an aftermarket cooling jacket and I want it to fit a new motor if I where to send mine in.

[slowride]

Yes the same dia. but a little bit longer so the jacket should fit fine