FINALLY, got to run my Spartan

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  • dag-nabit
    Senior Member
    • Feb 2011
    • 775

    #1

    FINALLY, got to run my Spartan

    So, I finally got to run my Spartan a few times this past weekend. Overall things went very well, with only a few technical difficulties.

    No amazing revelations, most of what I experienced has been documented already.

    I was running by myself, so sorry, no videos and only a few boring pics confirming temps etc.

    Most of you know my setup from following my threads the past few months, but here is a quick recap of the key modifications for those who are new here.

    -Tacon 3674 1700kv motor with upgraded aluminum cooling jacket.
    -T180 ESC set at 15* timing advance
    -Prather S215 prop, sharpened polished and balanced
    -Additional water pick up mounted on Trim Tab Adjuster
    - Jeff Wohlt .150 flex cable and upgraded collet.
    - MaxAmps 6500mah 3S 150C and Turnigy Nano tech 5000mah 3S 45C batteries






    First run:
    Water was very smooth and calm, and I started out with batteries full forward, the boat ran extremely stable but top speed according to Eagle Tree GPS was only 47kph (29 mph). I wasn't timing the runs but I'm guessing about 5-6 minutes on Maxamps 6500mah 3S batts before hitting lvc.

    I had excellent water streams coming out of both outlets, so the modified rudder,and trim tab adjuster water pick up, work well.

    The boat had a lot of torque roll to the right.

    On subsequent runs I worked the batteries toward the stern, and also made minor adjustments to the right trim tab to try and correct for the torque roll. I also found the strut had a wee bit of negative trim, even though I thought I had it set neutral. I adjusted it slightly positive.

    As I worked the batteries toward the back, the dreaded death wobble reared it's ugly head. My best recorded speed was 64.5kph (40 mph) with the batteries all the way back, but the chine walk was severe enough I wasn't able to run WOT.

    I found the best running was with the batteries at the mid point. Only minimal chine walk, and still hitting 62 - 63 kph (38-39mph) at WOT with a good stable ride.

    I know I can squeeze more speed out of this configuration, just need to settle down the chine walk first.

    The last couple runs I pulled the liner out of the stuffing tube to see if that would help the torque roll, it didn't eliminate it, but seemed to help a bit. Hard to say for certain though, the water conditions were a bit rough on Tuesday and the boat was hopping around a fair bit.

    I headed to the lake Friday and spent part of the day running the Spartans and my other boats, then headed back to town for the night. When I left for the lake again Saturday to spend the remainder of the long weekend at the cabin, I somehow managed to leave the eagle tree sitting on the table, therefore I don't have a lot of eagle tree data to evaluate yet. However temps were consistently in the mid 30 *C range (95*F) on the motor, esc and batteries, with the water temp at 10*C (50*F). Amp draw was spiking 120-140, but seemed to average around 50-60 amps.







    Quirky LVC
    I found the lvc on the T180 a bit quirky.

    Originally had lvc set at 3.2v cut off. First two sets of batts came off showing just over 3.7v residual, but only 10-15% charge capacity remaining.

    Changed the lvc setting to 3.4v for the next two runs and it was just about perfect, high side of 3.7 volts residual, and about 22-24% charge capacity remaining.

    Then the next few runs the lvc (still set at 3.4v) was kicking in after only a minute or two of run time, with 75-80% charge remaining in the batts. I checked everything over thoroughly, but could find nothing that may have been causing the issue, so set the lvc back down to 3.2 volts.

    The next few runs were better, but still short. Residual voltage over 3.8v with 50 -55% charge capacity left.

    The last couple runs I lowered the lvc to 3.0v. The run times were OK, residual voltage was over 3.7v, and 35-40% charge remaining in the batts.

    I plan on leaving the lvc at 3.0v for several runs before lowering it any further to ensure it is stabilized. (unless it starts drawing the batts too low again, in which case I will increase the lvc set point).

    I was running all brand new batteries, so that may have had something to do with the erratic lvc behavior until they had a few charge cycles on them??

    Next time out
    I will be sure to have the Eagle Tree with me.

    I will start experimenting more with tweaking the set up and will run a couple different props to see what the results are for amp draw, etc.

    Overall it was fun to finally get back on the water after a long winter. The top speeds were a bit disappointing, but with a bit of tweaking and finding the right prop for this setup, I think the Spartan's will provide a lot fun for us this summer.

    Kevin

    PS my daughter was away on a school trip and not with me at the lake, so we didn't run her boats, but her Spartan is setup identical to mine so i suspect results will be similar.
    Last edited by dag-nabit; 05-25-2011, 09:50 PM.
  • dag-nabit
    Senior Member
    • Feb 2011
    • 775

    #2
    Here is a couple Eagle Tree graphs from the second and third run of my Spartan

    3rd Run
    Tacon 3674 1700kv w/ Prather S215
    Batteries full rear point in tray
    T180 - Timing set 15*
    Water Temp 10*C (50*F)
    Max Amps 122
    AVG Amps 57.5
    Max GPS 64.46 kph (40 mph)



    2nd Run
    Tacon 3674 1700kv w/ Prather S215
    Batteries mid point in tray
    T180 - Timing set 15*
    Water Temp 10*C (50*F)
    Max Amps 121
    AVG Amps 58
    Max GPS 62.78 kph (39 mph)



    Kevin

    Comment

    • millzee
      Ozzie Bloke
      • Nov 2010
      • 1092

      #3
      Hi, maybe I should put this in the "whats the dumbest question" thread but, how do you save those eagle tree snap shot's? I was playing around with mine the other night and just didn't know how to save the graphs as pic's?
      http://www.youtube.com/user/1millzee?feature=mhum
      "Gimmy Toyz for FUN"

      Comment

      • dag-nabit
        Senior Member
        • Feb 2011
        • 775

        #4
        Took me awhile to figure it out as well.

        Click on "chart settings" in the lower left corner, then click on the export tab.

        You can also change the pen colors and a bunch of other stuff in chart settings.

        Kevin

        Comment

        • millzee
          Ozzie Bloke
          • Nov 2010
          • 1092

          #5
          thanks mate, I'll have a play around tonight
          http://www.youtube.com/user/1millzee?feature=mhum
          "Gimmy Toyz for FUN"

          Comment

          • scoota
            FE DOWN UNDER
            • Dec 2008
            • 409

            #6
            This might be the 2nd dumbest question , but how do you guys post those big a$$ pictures ???
            UL1- 1515 castle/neu / 240 swordfish
            SV27- with UL1 running gear
            33 Delta Force - 1521-1.5D/Neu/ 240 swordfish/4S2P

            Comment

            • millzee
              Ozzie Bloke
              • Nov 2010
              • 1092

              #7
              I only just learnt this one the other night, you'll need to set up a Photobucket account, just the free one is fine. Then load the pic's you want to share and I've been opening (double left mouse click) them large in photobucket, then right mouse click on the large picture, go into properties and copy the Address (url), some sites will need the http:// and other (like ose) will already have it. Then when your typing a post you just click on the insert image icon above the message box and then paste the url.
              I hope this helps.

              Thank god for this spartan thread, a few of us are learning a thing or two, sorry dude, keep up the good work on your boat!!!
              http://www.youtube.com/user/1millzee?feature=mhum
              "Gimmy Toyz for FUN"

              Comment

              • scoota
                FE DOWN UNDER
                • Dec 2008
                • 409

                #8
                Cheers Millzee Kevin, sorry for asking these dumb questions in the middle of your thread ....
                UL1- 1515 castle/neu / 240 swordfish
                SV27- with UL1 running gear
                33 Delta Force - 1521-1.5D/Neu/ 240 swordfish/4S2P

                Comment

                • dag-nabit
                  Senior Member
                  • Feb 2011
                  • 775

                  #9
                  Based on the the the thoughts/theory discussed about the drive line augering grease out of the stuffing tube, I have completed the following mod on my driveline, based in part on recommendations by George (GeoVW72).

                  I drilled out the back strut bushing to 1/4" diameter and approx. 4mm depth using a 1/4" drill bit and drill press.

                  I then made a new stuffing tube out of 1/4" K&S tubing approx. 8mm longer than the stock stuffing tube. (ballpark length, take your own measurements to be certain)

                  I lined it with Octura teflon liner.

                  The stuffing tube now fits into the rear bushing on the strut, Because drilling the bushing out with a 1/4" drill bit and drill press is hardly "precision" milling, the fit is a bit loose. (not an interference fit)

                  I adjusted the length of the stuffing tube a wee bit by sanding off the end until I got the correct length so the stuffing tube is "bottomed" out on the lip inside the strut bushing. This provides forward support for the strut to help hold it in place and maintain the correct negative/neutral/positive trim.

                  I have mine set at approx. 1mm positive trim. Minor adjustments can be made either by sliding the component tray forward or backward a mm or so, or by loosing off the stuffing tube clamp at the front of the tray and moving the stuffing tube forward or back a mm or so. (Be sure to leave clearance for the collet.

                  I also plugged the vent hole in the strut with silicone.

                  I'm hoping this might help retain grease on the flex shaft.

                  Hopefully can run it sometime this weekend to see if it works.





                  Kevin

                  Comment

                  • dag-nabit
                    Senior Member
                    • Feb 2011
                    • 775

                    #10
                    GLORY BE AND HALLELUIAH

                    Grease Left on the drive line!!

                    The mod I did above has helped retain grease on the drive line. It is still pushing out around the back of the strut where I did the modification, but some grease is now left on the flex shaft after 2 back to back runs.

                    Not sure how well it shows in the photo, but there is a decent layer of grease left on both the flex and stub shaft.



                    You can see the grease is still squeezing out around the end of the strut where I mated the stuffing tube into the shaft.


                    I may try a bit of silicone around the end of the stuffing tube before inserting it into the strut to see if a bit more of a seal will retain more grease. I'm going to wait to be certain I have the strut angle where I want it before I try this. That way there will be less chance I will be pulling things apart very often.

                    I gained a new respect for the Spartan today. Ran it in some very rough water and it handled admirably. Batteries mid point, strut approx 1mm positive angle and it ran very stable. It was in the air almost as much as it was in the water.

                    To rough to hit WOT but had a couple decent runs on an S220 prop.

                    Kevin

                    Comment

                    • GeoVW72
                      Senior Member
                      • Jun 2010
                      • 258

                      #11
                      Excellent

                      I see plenty of grease on that shaft, the stock ends up dry, even with the larger brass tube.
                      Should run great once you get some water calm enough to hit WOT, more speed, very little chine walking.
                      Team Boca Bearings

                      S&G Design

                      Comment

                      • dag-nabit
                        Senior Member
                        • Feb 2011
                        • 775

                        #12
                        Originally posted by GeoVW72
                        Excellent

                        I see plenty of grease on that shaft, the stock ends up dry, even with the larger brass tube.
                        Should run great once you get some water calm enough to hit WOT, more speed, very little chine walking.
                        I noticed the torque roll seemed to be gone when I was running this time, and on a larger prop as well. Can't say for certain because the boat was hopping around so much, and I wasn't torquing it hard on the throttle, but it definitely seemed better.

                        I'm guessing the little bit of positive pitch on the strut has helped.

                        Hopefully will find out this weekend, heading for the cabin right chicken Louie. weather not looking great right now, but hopefully it will co-operate to get in a few runs.

                        Should get some video this time as well, and will be running my daughters Spartan for first time too.

                        Kevin

                        Comment

                        • roadrashracing
                          Fast Electric Addict!
                          • Aug 2010
                          • 1462

                          #13
                          I am trying a new idea for the grease issue, I had ordered some parts from the hobbyshop and they ordered me a stuffing tube seal even though I did not need it. WHat I did is I cut the current seal at the hull so part of the stuffing tube was showing, then I just compressed the seal as I tighted the stinger.
                          Attached Files

                          Comment

                          • dag-nabit
                            Senior Member
                            • Feb 2011
                            • 775

                            #14
                            Originally posted by roadrashracing
                            I am trying a new idea for the grease issue, I had ordered some parts from the hobbyshop and they ordered me a stuffing tube seal even though I did not need it. WHat I did is I cut the current seal at the hull so part of the stuffing tube was showing, then I just compressed the seal as I tighted the stinger.
                            That looks like it might work.

                            Let us know the results. You may need to plug the vent hole in the strut if you find the flex cable is still looking dry after a run or two. I found a lot of grease stuck to the strut behind the vent hole.

                            Comment

                            • dag-nabit
                              Senior Member
                              • Feb 2011
                              • 775

                              #15
                              Here are a few "on the water pics" from the weekend.

                              We were having too much fun running to take time to do much for videos, although I did get a short one I will maybe post up later.







                              Kevin

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