Tweet
Hey, any word on the Motley Crew ETA?
-
-
Just wanted to post my experience today with the Traxxas Spartan. It was really the first time I have gotten to run it. Let me state the only things I have modified on my boat is the rudder itself. I opened up the inlet hole and I opened up the outlet nipple on the end of the rudder. And I changed out the stock TRX (are they rated at 30 amps?) connectors to 4mm gold bullets rated at 93A. Also sharpened the rudder and turn fins.
It was about 40 degrees outside here in TN & raining a little. I used the stock NiMH packs first. I had no issues with heat on the motor or ESC. They were cold.
My next test was with 2 Hyperion G3 EX 45C 3S 5000mAh packs. I ran a few laps 1-1.5mins and checked temps. it was cold. Then went and ran the boat for about 7mins. No problems. I checked the temps. The motor and ESC were still cool. I drove the boat like I always drive. Just sport driving having fun. I made lots of WOT straight runs for 4 seconds or so then slow and turn. But I never spend most of my time at WOT doing pass after pass after pass till the batteries are drained. I wonder if thats what some are doing not knowing any better?
Later today I went back and GPS the boat it was about low mid 40's. I also ran it hard for about 2 mins with lots of WOT running trying to get the temp up. then brought it in and immediately shot a temp reading. it was 81 degrees F.
I know I can get more speed out of the boat. i just need to adjust battery placement and adjust the strut angle and get a little more of the hull out of the water. 50mph isnt a far stretch on a good day.
Oh and I guess I should mention after modding the rudder I think the higher flow of water is posing a problem for the silicon water jacket on the motor. Because at lower speeds I see a steady stream of water coming out of the outlet on the side. when I am going 3/4 to full throttle I dont see it much at all. but there is a bunch of water inside the hull (a cup or more). I suspect the motor jacket is leaking when i go fast. Im not 100% sure but its a theory. but water was sprayed all on the underside of the canopy. I did set the boat in the tub for a half hour to check for leaks before hand and just a little (1/2 teaspoon) came in around the hole going out of the transom for the stuffing tube.Last edited by JPriami; 01-25-2011, 11:30 PM.Land, Sea & Air, A true RC Addict.Comment
-
the water spray you see i guess is from the prop shaft not the cooling jacket
and whey you run full speed the water stream is harder to see because the boat is going 40+mph and is no longer a stream but broken up by the 40mph wind
.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8s
Comment
-
water spray from the prop shaft inside the boat? really? interestingLand, Sea & Air, A true RC Addict.Comment
-
I doubt a cup or more.
If you want to find out for sure, fill and pressurize the water system with a syringe.
My guess is the jacket is leaking when you approach 50 just like the silicone jackets do.
DougMODEL BOAT RACER
IMPBA President
District 13 Director 2011- present
IMPBA National Records Director 2009-2019
IMPBA 19887L CD
NAMBA 1169Comment
-
you could be right maybe not more than a cup meaning a measuring cup or .25 qrt. but I bet it wasnt far from it after running for that 7 mins. it was shocking.
damn that syringe idea is good. thanks. ive been trying to fig out a way to pressurize it. I was going to use my fuel pump to my planes or something.Land, Sea & Air, A true RC Addict.Comment
-
MODEL BOAT RACER
IMPBA President
District 13 Director 2011- present
IMPBA National Records Director 2009-2019
IMPBA 19887L CD
NAMBA 1169Comment
-
just blow throught the line off the rudder and you will find the leak
.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8sComment
-
.NAMBA20...Caterpillar UL-1, P-Spec OM29, P-Mono DF33, P-Spec JAE, Aussie 33" Hydro-LSH, Sprintcat CC2028 on 8s, PT SS45 Q Hydro, PS295 UL-1 power, OSE Brothers Outlaw QMono 4-sale, Rio 51z CC2028 on 8sComment
-
I wish them luck in trying to delete posts here or on RCG
................where it really matters..................
Still no 50mph runs out there
NEED PARALLEL CONNECTORS?? QUALITY 5.5MM, 8MM, 8 AND 10 AWG, GET THEM HERE:
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...est!&highlight=Comment
-
"And I changed out the stock TRX (are they rated at 30 amps?) connectors to 4mm gold bullets rated at 93A. "
Not a good idea. The bullet connectors do not have the surface area of the TRX connectors. Actually, the total surface contact area of the TRX and Deans is just about the same. That means you will burn up something in the boat before you have a problem with the connectors. Try bursting over 100 amps.
Castle has some bullet connects that they recommend for their motors but remember they have three connectors there vice two for the TRX and Deans. Also, the Castle bullet connectors are NOT the banana type. Most all of the bullet connectors out there are bullet type so you actually have to worry about three pieces making full contact, which they don't.Comment
-
I just got confused: Are you saying that deans and traxxas plugs are better then CC bullets? You changed to 4mm but you are you saying that wasn't a good idea?
* The traxxas connectors and deans connectors are pure junk. Most of my setups will destroy those other connectors so quick it wouldn't be funny. I will stick to Bullets 5.5mm or higher! Also deans/traxxas will get so hot they will de-solder. There is reason why the majority of the people here don't use trx and deans plugs... Simply put they can't hang in most FE setups. I think if you continue to use trx and deans plugs it's only a matter of time before you will find the problems...Comment
-
take a close look at a used trx conector and you will see what the real contact area.Comment
Comment