Alternate Motor & Prop Choices

[Capt'n Crash]

Your maths is off here, going from 1.6 pitch to 1.3 pitch isn't half the pitch, it is over 3 quarters. For easy maths lets take an unrealistic 100mm prop (the same maths applies to other sizes it is just easier to see with a nice round number), with 1.3 pitch it travels 130mm per revolution, and with 1.6 pitch it travels 160mm per revolution it is only a 23% difference. You are right in as much as the 1.6 pitch prop will have more load and thus drop more voltage under load, so the speed differential when in use will be smaller than the theoretical 23%.

Thanks for that explanation about the difference in pitch Paul...very informative.

[UpliFT-RC]

Thank you for the info...as well as the boat-building encouragement. While I'm still not ready to build (from scratch, or from a hull), I do feel more confident that building from a hull is a more realistic probability. I still never to have a better understanding of not only the internal workings, but also of the entirety of the parts that make up the boat. The SonicWake isn't exactly the best boat to learn that. However, my second boat will be built by Steve. Having a complete parts list will give me that "complete parts involved" understanding, so that, when it comes time for my 3rd, or 4th, boat (not counting a "rescue boat"), I should be ready.

Getting this thread back on-track to the subject I created it for, I finally made a decision for the SonicWake's replacement motor - Leopard 3674 1400kV. Based on an Octura X642 (the closest I could find to the stock prop), the stock motor on 4S calculated out to a theoretical max speed of 40.7mph. As my primary goal was to decrease the temps of the electronics, and increase runtime, this should be a good choice. I could have gone with the SSD 3674 1300kV, which, on 6S, would have only been 1.1mph faster than the stock motor on 4S, but I felt the sight speed increase (45mph) of the Leopard motor in 6S was 'acceptable'. I can always prop-down...say, to a 1.5, or even 1.4, pitch, which would return the boat to "stock 4S speed", while lowering temps even further. According to the email I received a few minutes ago, Steve just shipped it.

~ More peace, love, laughter & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place [emoji1690]

So can you run your SW with a Leopard 3674 1400k on 6s with the stock Dynamite 120a ESC OR DO YOU ONLY run it on 4s with this motor? Also, if I was thinking about adding the Leopard 4076 1050kv and installing a Seaking 180 ESC so I can run faster on 6s! Anyways, what kind of run times are you getting on 4s with your Leo 3674 1400kv motor with your stock 120 Dynamite ESC? Would like to get your thoughts and opinions?

[Panther6834]

So can you run your SW with a Leopard 3674 1400k on 6s with the stock Dynamite 120a ESC OR DO YOU ONLY run it on 4s with this motor? Also, if I was thinking about adding the Leopard 4076 1050kv and installing a Seaking 180 ESC so I can run faster on 6s! Anyways, what kind of run times are you getting on 4s with your Leo 3674 1400kv motor with your stock 120 Dynamite ESC? Would like to get your thoughts and opinions?

I'm not running the Leopard on the stock Dynamite ESC...I'm running it on a Seaking 180A ESC - Leopard 3674-1400kV & Seaking 180A ESC, on 6S only, with CNC 4514 prop. That's what I was running when one of the motor's wires 'disengaged' from the bullet connector three weeks ago, and that's what I was running last weekend (after resoldering the bullet). She was running great, through the better part of three pair of 3S packs, until she lost one of her trim tabs (my fault, as I'm fairly certain I forgot to completely re-tightened the screw after adjusting the trim tab mount).

The stock motor & stock ESC are great on 4S, but too many people have had problems running the stock electronics on 6S, which is exactly what led to swapping ESCs, and to going with a lower kV motor. Another very good ESC option would probably be the OSE Raider 150A. You could probably run the 1400kV with the stock ESC on 6S, and not have any problems...but, don't quote me on that. I'm still too new to FE to know for certain.

What I do know is that the stock electronics run great on 4S, and you can easily get more speed with the proper prop. The electronics I'm currently running appear to be great in 6S...and, likewise, can probably get more speed with the proper prop. In either case - stock electronics on 4S, or 'upgraded' electronics on 6S - you need to be careful with your prop selection, and you need to "ramp up" prop choices slowly. Additionally, if your looking for faster 'continuous' running (full-throttle until the ESC's LVC kicks in), you'll need to be more cautious in your prop selection, and take more frequent temp readings than you would on SAW runs.

All of this depends entirely on what your "goal" is. My "goal" is NOT making mine into the fastest boat possible...mine is making it into a longer/cooler running boat (and, the longer running, the better). Running 4S 5000mAh on stock electronics, I'd typically get approx 3.5min of WOT. If, on my current electronics, I can get 5min of WOT on 6S, and still have the electronics 'cool', then I will have achieved my goal. If I can get 6min, I will have exceeded my goal. The longer the runtime I can achieve being that (if possible), the greater I will have exceeded my goal. If it takes replacing the Leopard 1400kV motor with the SSS 1300kV motor I just received (which, I realize, would make the boat slightly slower), so be it...again, the most important goal is "longest runtime", while still keeping the electronics 'cool'.


~ More peace, love, laughter, & kindness would make the world a MUCH better place