Proboat Sonicwake 36" w/ Turnigy Graphene 6000?

[pdegene]

Quick update:

I received the batteries in the mail. Lightning fast shipping even when requesting soldered connectors. Thank you, SMC! The packs are really nice and quite a bit smaller than the others. The battery tray in this thing kinda sucks in that no battery fits well. They fit side by side, but they slide up and down in the tray after being strapped in. How do people solve this issue? My first thought was just a little Velcro on the bottom to hold it in place, but I don't necessarily want that on my battery. I'm fabricating a tray with integrated spacers by adhering wood blocks to a 1/32" sheet of aluminum.

I have everything I need to run it now and cant wait to see it in action. I just need to visit a relative on the lake!

[UpliFT-RC]

@pdegene - I have the best luck with my boat, running 2 DINOGY GRAPHENE 2.0 3S 5000MAH 70C LIPO's since they are not as heavy as the Turnigy Graphene 6000 lipo's, see below for comparison and spec size! Actually #MrMad2424 on Youtube recommended the DINOGY GRAPHENE to me and they are awesome! Plus, I run the BoatsBitz dual rudder pickup for my cooling systems and as far as my props, i run a few different ones! For my Speed runs, i use the Supersonic3prop from Chris Hoffman which I have been able to get 60MPH out of my boat no problem with all stock electronics! Today, I JUST bought a lighter prop to get longer run times from Dasboata and got the 440/3 prop!

DINOGY GRAPHENE 2.0 3S 5000MAH 70C LIPO's
Specifications:
Capacity: 5000MAH
Cell Count: 3
Constant Discharge: 70C
Voltage: 11.1V
Max Charge Rate 5C
Pack Weight 407g
Pack Size 27x48x165mm
Pack Weight 407g

https://www.dinogylipos.com/collections/3s-lipos/products/graphene-3s-6000mah-70c-lipo

vs

Turnigy Graphene Panther 6000mAh 3S 75C
Specs:

Capacity: 6000mAh
Cell Count: 3
Voltage: 11.1V
Constant Discharge: 75C
Peak Discharge (3s): 150C
Battery Size: 168x69x27mm
Weight: 630g

[pdegene]

I finally had an opportunity to get the boat on the water and am thoroughly impressed. The thing is fast, stable, and when I needed the self-righting feature, it worked. The batteries and motor were warm, but the ESC/wires were HOT. Since it was a new boat, I brought it back often to check temps and even with the dual pickup, the ESC/wires were hotter than I wanted. Had I gone all out, the thing would have smoked something. There's a lot of cavitation and it takes 2/3 throttle to get going, but once the prop bites, it BOOGIES.

I need to find a prop that bites more, beef up the ESC, or both... I'm going to start with a Seaking 180A ESC and am also looking into different cooling options. I plan to order larger diameter tubing and will most likely upgrade to the larger intake diameter of the BoatsBitz rudder kit as well.

For those that have the BoatsBitz parts, how do you like them?
Anyone have any prop recommendations?
I'm using XT-90's. Should I consider bullets or a larger connector? (XT-150?)

Here's a 12sec video of it. Sorry about the quality. When I rotated the video, it got worse.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SA-6feKIn6E

[UpliFT-RC]

Please show us some pictures when you install your Seaking 180 ESC, since I am getting ready to install one in mine?

[Boater]

Hi we just purchased the Sonic wake and am kind of confused on which batteries to use? We purchased ph 3s 7600mah 75c & zeee 22.2 100c 6000m, haven't opened either was hoping for some advice as I want the best speed and run time, but after reading problems with weight and overheating I'm kind of leery?? Thanks

[Panther6834]

Hi we just purchased the Sonic wake and am kind of confused on which batteries to use? We purchased ph 3s 7600mah 75c & zeee 22.2 100c 6000m, haven't opened either was hoping for some advice as I want the best speed and run time, but after reading problems with weight and overheating I'm kind of leery?? Thanks

On the stock ESC, while it is 6S 'capable', I would advise only doing full-throttle for short periods of time. The stock ESC is best when running under 4S. However, of you replace the stock ESC with something better...for example, the Spektrum Firma 160A, HW Seaking 180A, OSE Raider 150A, etc...then the SonicWake will be ready for true 6S runs.

As for the batteries you got, both should be good. The 3S packs you would have to run in-series, combining their power together (exactly the same way you'd run two 2S in-series, creating 4S power). For a single 6S, or 4S, you'll need to get a "loop" (sorry, I'm blanking on the technical name right now, and I don't know the part number).

UPDATE: For those interested/considering XT90, or EC5, connectors...DON'T. This doesn't come 'from' me. I'm just passing it on from others who have given the same advise. The minimum recommended connector would be Castle 6.5mm, or something similar.


~ More peace, love, and kindness would make the world a much better place

[sciesielka]

The batteries and motor were warm, but the ESC/wires were HOT. Since it was a new boat, I brought it back often to check temps and even with the dual pickup, the ESC/wires were hotter than I wanted.

I'm using XT-90's. Should I consider bullets or a larger connector? (XT-150?)

Any updates on the ESC wires getting hot on your Sonicwake? Do you still have this issue or did you find a solution? Also, did you end up replacing the XT-90s?

I just picked up a gently used Sonicwake and I'm getting ready to make some improvements. I hear a lot of people talk about their electronics getting really hot.

[One-Eye Bandit]

I run 2x TURNIGY RAPID 8000MAH 2S2P 140-280C hardcase lipo's (317g per pack) and my esc/motor/battery temps are 95 degrees or less when I finish a 6:30 second run at wot the entire time, that's running 4 cells. You draw less current (Current = heat) running 6 cells so not sure why the stock ESC wouldn't cut it? I am running the stock prop, stock motor, 5.5mm barrel connectors & the batteries have 5mm barrel connectors on the packs. My connectors get slightly warm. I have drilled out the rudder with a long shank 1/8" bit and replaced most of my silicone tubing with 3/16" od thin walled aluminum tubing with short connecting 5/32" id silicone tubing pieces. I also drilled out the nipples with a 7/64" bit then removed the nipples from the esc, cleaned out the shavings. If anyone wants to do this be careful as the nipples are aluminum so be careful tightening them back on if you remove them. So slightly modified stock cooling system is all I've done.

[jkflow]

No, that analogy is incorrect. You assume that power stays the same on 6S which implies less current.
In reality, current will increase and inefficiencies getting to peak power are higher as well, hence more heat getting to the top and higher current at max power.
Easy mistake to make, though.
You are probably running at 80-100A when you are on 4S and that will easily peak out at max ESC capability of close to 120A on 6S.

[One-Eye Bandit]

Ok, makes sense. Thanks for that clarification! I haven't run 6s yet, so I haven't experienced it first-hand.