Impulse 31 motor upgrade

[Skullcracken]

Want to upgrade to a 4074 leopard 2200kv. Can you use a 40mm motor with the stock mount?

[Serpents811]

Want to upgrade to a 4074 leopard 2200kv. Can you use a 40mm motor with the stock mount?

nope 36mm can sizes

[Skullcracken]

Yah, but don't the leopard motors have two different motor mounting hole widths? I mainly mean is the 4074 too long to only use front mounts, or do you need the mounts with a rear clamp also because of the length.

[Steven Vaccaro]

You can use a 4074 or 4082 in the Impulse. It will rip. I've sold dozens to guys. The east fix to the longer motor, is just a simple piece of wood block under the rear of the motor for added support.

[pyroM!KE]

If you get the leopard motor with the wires out the end you can add a silicone jacket to help with cooling..Heres my Cyber Storm 33 i got and built from OSE..1550kv leopard octura x447/3 prop on 6s..I just run the water jacket for the 4074 and its fine..http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8c28E85OaFo

[IRON-PAWW]

I went with a 4074 2150KV and Steven is right - the boats rip with these installed. So far I've just run mine on 4S and the speed with just that is out of this world.

Things to be wary of though if you *do* do this.

You will need to upgrade your drive cable coupler to the type that requires two spanners to tighten - available from Steven. I tried using the stock coupler and lost the whole drive cable out the back when it let go. Bad.

I would really recommend Steven's upgraded drive cable too.

Also - Tape the hatch - for *every* run. I usually do this but got slack on the last run one day and paid the price. I've found the Impulse has a tendency to spear down under the water if there's any sort of undulations on the surface - like boat wakes (full size) or something. I put that down to the way the Impulse's nose slopes downward to a point. Was sort of cool looking at the boat make like a submarine - until the hatch came off along with the tupperware lid and the boat filled with water. Hatch was shot to pieces and basically unusable after that. So tape it!

[stadiumyamaha]

They do stuff a lot once you get them running faster. Very much a smooth water v

[de-pro]

I tend to agree. This boat doesnt really like rough water with that kind of powerplant. Also make sure you reinforce the hatch. The roof cracks the first time you hit the water hard in higher speeds.
This is my Impulse with 4074 2200kv and seaking 180 esc

[stadiumyamaha]

+1 on the hatch reinforcement. I'm crushed the first time I flipped it at speed.

[stadiumyamaha]

Also, of you run 4s2p it really helps keep the heat down and there's plenty of room for two 4s packs. It seems to like the extra weight as well. I'm running a m545 with not problems. Temps in the eighties.

[Bullwink]

I second the comment about putting on a better motor coupler. I lost a cable and a new S/B m545 last week which was the first time I ran it. I was waiting for a new coupler from Jeff Wohlit and being the impatient cuss I am, I tried running it again Monday. Yep, lost another cable and prop.

BTW, I am running a UL-1 2030kv motor and my motor temp after 4 minutes with the m545 was only 112F.

[petej]

Before I run a new Leopard 4074 1800kv, x645 prop, on 4S I'm gonna replace the set-screw coupler with a collet.

[de-pro]

I was running the boat with a detongued 447 and the stock rudder water pickup in that video. Electronics temps in high 90s but the water was cooling down in late October. I have added a second water pickup for the esc so hopefully it helps cool things down in warmer weather.
+1 on upgraded coupler and OSE flexcable. I snapped the stock one already but was lucky enough not to lose the prop.

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[IRON-PAWW]

Yep de-pro your video seemed pretty familiar to me. Except I did a deep and extended subsurface dive that thoroughly killed the hatch. Lesson learned. Cool rollover you did though :).

With a new hatch now from Steven (thanks muchly) - I basically filled that with a stiff lightweight foam from a pressure pack, then cut it so the hatch fits on. Seems a very good idea. I also filled the forward section of the hull with this foam as well for extra reinforcement. Just get a pressure pack with a nice long applicator hose so you can direct the foam all the way into the nose. Feels much more solid now for just a minor weight gain.

Should say that I too run the Seaking 180 ESC. Although I lacquered and epoxy'd my original Seaking 180 it still got water in it somehow - which completely killed it of course. So I went to to town with the replacement Seaking 180. Hopefully no water will get into this one. I just run the one cooling line so far and temps are .... ok. Still a shade warmer than I'd like though. I use the larger diameter cooling tube that Steven sells and I seem to get really good water flow using that. But I'm also considering a dual-line cooling system.

Does the ProBoat Dual Rudder mod have a water pickup in each rudder?

Hopefully going for a run this weekend. I'm yet to do an issue-free run with this boat. Fingers crossed.

I feel you guys' pain at losing your props and drive cables! Join the club! Replace that stock coupler!