4S lipo on x442 running hot

[BHChieftain]

I've converted a stock Fastech to run on lipos (changed ESC with programming card), running 2 Turnigy 30C 5000 Mah 2S lipos (4S total) with an X442 prop. First run with this config resulted in one ESC-to-Motor wire to desolder due to heat. I swapped out all of the ESC-to-Motor connectors to 6mm (yes, seems like overkill, but that's what I had...).

Still, on an x442 prop the ESC-to-Motor wires were *really* hot. But the motor and ESC temps were ok, but a bit warm for my taste.... I'd hate to have to drop down to a smaller prop. I think the hull was running wet, however. Any tips aside from adjusting the strut to get the front of the hull to ride higher? Anybody else seen heat problems with this config? I've read that 4S lipos + x642 is the sweet spot, but that's a lot more prop pitch than I'm running now.

Chief

[LiPo Power]

Yes, swich to X642 and you will be happy before your ESC or motor goes....

[forescott]

Yes, swich to X642 and you will be happy before your ESC or motor goes....

How will a 642 run cooler than a 442? Its the same diameter with more pitch.

[v-spec]

Maybe it's just running too wet or maybe the motors on it's way out, I had one a couple years ago with the same prop and it always ran very cool, everything did.

[forescott]

Is there timing options with the programming card? If so, make sure the timing isn't too high. Something is definetely wrong. That is waay too hot for a stock setup, and should run all day on a 442, running wet or not!

[Mskiin]

I actually just had this same problem yesterday and I'm running x642. Caused 2 of my wire connections to desolder. The motor is a year old with a few many runs on it but I don't see how this should be such a problem because my motor and esc temps were both very low. Just the wires apparently were the issue. It was also a bit of a surprise to see how small the wires from the motor to the esc are. It seems to me they should be at least a 12 gauge wire. Heat in the wires means the motor is pulling to much for the wires to handle. I may try switching to a fatter wire and see how that works out if i am able to do so.

[forescott]

Fatter wire, and if the solder isn't imbedded into all of the wire strands that would cause a lot of heat. Was this a used boat?? Did someone maybe solder smaller wires to the motor? If they did, did they do a good job?? I know when I solder a new clean wire, I dip the wire in liquid flux from radio shack. Then when you apply the solder, it soaks it all up like a sponge. If I don't use flux, then the solder just kinda sticks to the outside of the wire.

[lectriglide]

I was also having the same problem. It seems to be solved now, here is what I came up with.

1. Changed the motor/esc connectors to 4mm ones I pulled off some old Zippy's (you know, the ones with the red plastic connector covers)

2. Moved the motor forward. When I pull the flex cable for greasing, I unscrew it at the transom and "L" bracket so I can keep the strut angle as consistent as possible. I noticed when I reinstalled it, I had to give it a pretty good "twist and push" with the prop to get the L brackets back against the transom. I'm pretty sure this was causing some binding or at least some more friction within the teflon tube. When I moved the motor forward in the slotted mount just a smidge, it took this tension out and now it runs cooler, the motor wires are lots cooler and I'm not melting the solder at the connectors.

Give it a try, it solved my problems.

[forescott]

Yes of course, check the driveline for any friction. That prop should spin like butter when the collet is loose. Even a little friction can cause a lot of heat!

[BHChieftain]

Fatter wire, and if the solder isn't imbedded into all of the wire strands that would cause a lot of heat. Was this a used boat?? Did someone maybe solder smaller wires to the motor? If they did, did they do a good job?? I know when I solder a new clean wire, I dip the wire in liquid flux from radio shack. Then when you apply the solder, it soaks it all up like a sponge. If I don't use flux, then the solder just kinda sticks to the outside of the wire.

This was a brand new boat when I bought it earlier this year, runs cool on nimhs.

Chief

[BHChieftain]

I was also having the same problem. It seems to be solved now, here is what I came up with.

1. Changed the motor/esc connectors to 4mm ones I pulled off some old Zippy's (you know, the ones with the red plastic connector covers)

2. Moved the motor forward. When I pull the flex cable for greasing, I unscrew it at the transom and "L" bracket so I can keep the strut angle as consistent as possible. I noticed when I reinstalled it, I had to give it a pretty good "twist and push" with the prop to get the L brackets back against the transom. I'm pretty sure this was causing some binding or at least some more friction within the teflon tube. When I moved the motor forward in the slotted mount just a smidge, it took this tension out and now it runs cooler, the motor wires are lots cooler and I'm not melting the solder at the connectors.

Give it a try, it solved my problems.

I think you might be on to something here. I noticed when I tap the thottle when the boat is out of the water, I get a lot of vibration/noise from the driveline (prop is well balanced). Will check it out this weekend,
Thanks,
Chief

[BHChieftain]

I adjusted the strut angle as she was running wet, and I ensured the angle at the motor coupler was ok. I also re-lubed the flexshaft (which I do about every 5 runs or so). Motor, esc, lipos all cool, lipo battery wires cool, but the motor-to-esc wires were still pretty hot, although cooler than before-- the strut adjustment did help a bit.

But something still isn't right-- at this point I suspect a poor solder connection with the wires that exit the ESC or exit the motor. Has anyone tried to resolder the motor wires at the point where they attach to the stock motor? I'd probably like to put 12g on there...

Chief

[airman66285]

I adjusted the strut angle as she was running wet, and I ensured the angle at the motor coupler was ok. I also re-lubed the flexshaft (which I do about every 5 runs or so). Motor, esc, lipos all cool, lipo battery wires cool, but the motor-to-esc wires were still pretty hot, although cooler than before-- the strut adjustment did help a bit.

But something still isn't right-- at this point I suspect a poor solder connection with the wires that exit the ESC or exit the motor. Has anyone tried to resolder the motor wires at the point where they attach to the stock motor? I'd probably like to put 12g on there...

Chief

Chief,

I had this same problem with mine and it was a poor solder connection between the male bullet connector and the wire lead to the motor. I removed all 3 bullets, cleaned them and re-soldered them with pure silver solder. Everything ran beautiful and cool after that.

[BHChieftain]

Chief,

I had this same problem with mine and it was a poor solder connection between the male bullet connector and the wire lead to the motor. I removed all 3 bullets, cleaned them and re-soldered them with pure silver solder. Everything ran beautiful and cool after that.

I had replaced the stock bullets and soldered on 6mm bullets (overkill I know, but I had some extras...) between the ESC and motor... I guess I'll check em again...

By the way-- how do you clean the connectors?

Chief

[airman66285]

I had replaced the stock bullets and soldered on 6mm bullets (overkill I know, but I had some extras...) between the ESC and motor... I guess I'll check em again...

By the way-- how do you clean the connectors?

Chief

Chief,

I use Caig Deoxit cleaner and it rocks. I started using it on my hi-fi connections and then decided to try it on my bullet connectors. I buy mine from the link below - hope this helps you out!
http://www.amazon.com/CAIG-DeOxit-Cl.../dp/B0002BBV4G