Darin's ProBoat Miss Elam Race Prep

[Darin Jordan]

OK, this is the cool idea I had...

To solve the issue of HOW to seal around the stack, my solution was to make the stack MOVABLE...

SOOOOO... I got an aircraft aileron hinge, and mouted the back of the stack to the transom with the hinge.

I marked the stack so that I could trim it to JUST touch the cowling, then sanded it down to fit.

I used one of the magnets for the factory hatch and embedded it into the front original stack mounting hole. I used a 3/8" wood hole bit to drill down. There is a piece of foam or wood or ??? under the deck in the back, so if you are VERY careful, you can slowly drill it down to a depth where the magnet side of the latch is JUST below the deck.

ON the stack, I modified the front mounting hole to accept the other halve of the magnetic latch, and epoxied it into place.

[Darin Jordan]

I used epoxy and a piece of electrical tape to glue it in place.

Using some of the left over epoxy, I also glued a brass tube into the factory water line hole...

[Darin Jordan]

With everything all dry, I now have a hinged exhaust stack that can be moved out of the way for taping, and securely stays down afterward... Pretty slick in my opinion and very functional, while maintaining the look...

[detox]

Sorry Darin, but I have to say this. THIS IS REDICULOUS! Sounds to me like Pro Boat really screwed this hull up. They need to redesign a new more simple hull.

[Darin Jordan]

With the hatch now sealable, all that's left is to do the finishing assembly and install the electronics...

It's all ready to go. After my 2-part foam arrives, I will put that into the sponsons. In the meantime, I just have to dial in the radio and then get her wet. I'll let you all know how it does!

Also, I didn't show it in any pics, but I trimmed out the forward two magnetic mounts.... You'll need every bit of extra space to fit Lipos in there...

I have been able to fit a pair of Elite 30C 4500 2S1P packs in there. Any longer and they won't fit. One might be able to make them slightly thicker, but it's a TIGHT squeeze, and there is NO adjustment with the way the boat is setup. You could make them go backwards if you trimmed out the bulkhead, but you'd never want to do that. Any balance issues will have to be resolved with lead in the nose somewhere...

[Darin Jordan]

They need to redesign a new more simple hull.

Ummm... Unless I'm missing something... I think that's what I just got done doing...

You have to remember... this boat was NOT built for the racing crowd... It works fine for market it was intended...

Now it will work fine for us racers as well...

[JimClark]

When and where?

Jim

With the hatch now sealable, all that's left is to do the finishing assembly and install the electronics...

It's all ready to go. After my 2-part foam arrives, I will put that into the sponsons. In the meantime, I just have to dial in the radio and then get her wet. I'll let you all know how it does!

[Darin Jordan]

Jim,

I'm not going to the practice race tomorrow, as I have to work at work, then come home and work on finishing up the bathroom remodel I'm doing...

Probably won't be until the 28th...

[AndyKunz]

Darin,

I think my competition hull will include just the sponson and strut mods. The rest is your preference for keeping the insides dry. I'll concentrate on keeping the wet side down

Andy

[Darin Jordan]

Darin,

I think my competition hull will include just the sponson and strut mods. The rest is your preference for keeping the insides dry. I'll concentrate on keeping the wet side down

Andy

Just make sure you add FLOTATION! We had a guy in our club loose one of these last weekend with the stock setup... Hatch blew open, whole deal sunk right to the bottom...

Oh, and by the way... Mine will stay dry, AND stay right-side-down...

[Darin Jordan]

Quick Update...

I used 2lb density 2-part expanding foam in the sponsons and down the non-trips last night... Worked out well... I did 2-pours of 20cc volume (10cc part A / 10cc part B) into each sponson, then a 20cc pour down each non-trip... waiting about 15-minutes between pours for it to harden and fully expand... Seems to have worked out very well... the sponsons are solid now, and the additional foam in the non-trip area helps make that more rigid as well. I think this will help reinforce the seams as well as add much needed floatation...

I have the boat completely ready to race, and will be racing it tomorrow (Saturday, March 28th) if the weather holds up. It's suppose to be COLD, RAINY, and "GUSTY", so we'll see how that goes...

I have an EagleTree V3 onboard, with two temp probes (battery and motor) and an RPM sensor. If I can run it, we'll see what kind of data comes back. When time permits, I'm going to also see if I can get the airspeed sensor hooked up (maybe up in the scoop) and we'll see if I can get real speeds as well...

Fully ready to race, with two 4500mah Elite 30C 2S1P packs and the EagleTree onboard, the weight is 5lbs 4.1oz...

Hopefully we can run tomorrow and I can report back some useful data...

[JimClark]

Darin how many heats of LSH would you usually run? I am not going to miss it if I get there around Noon am I?

Jim

[paulwilliams]

how many heats of LSH

Forgive my ignorance, but what is "LSH"?

Paul

[JimClark]

Limited sport or spec Hydro

[paulwilliams]

Limited sport or spec Hydro

Ok, a controlled formula then - restricted motor etc.?

Paul