Stiletto Race Prep

[Darin Jordan]

I have the wobble too, about 2mm in each direction. I never crashed mine, so it could be a wear issue.

I bought a Hyperformance stub shaft here on OSE: it's a drop-in replacement and very well built, but it doesn't turn as freely as the stock one, even after greasing it. I'm hoping it will loosen up a little with usage.

Did you try the M445? How is it?

The stub on these is basically the same as a stock K&B stub... which also wore out very quickly. The Hyperformance stub is the WAY to go on one of these. It'll last forever, and also has a little extra length for those larger prop hubs.

[AlanN]

I have the wobble too, about 2mm in each direction. I never crashed mine, so it could be a wear issue.

I bought a Hyperformance stub shaft here on OSE: it's a drop-in replacement and very well built, but it doesn't turn as freely as the stock one, even after greasing it. I'm hoping it will loosen up a little with usage.

Did you try the M445? How is it?

I bought a hyperperf stub shaft and found that the flange on the squared end rubs against the lower end. You could sand it lightly to have proper clearance.

[ron1950]

where does one get the hyperperformance stub end?part number etc?

[Darin Jordan]

where does one get the hyperperformance stub end?part number etc?

http://www.offshoreelectrics.com/pro...prod=hpi-psa35

I'd recommend either trimming down the grubs or getting some shorter ones...

[ron1950]

thanks.....figured out what the grubs are and wow why do they stick out like thumbs on that drive dog? lol

[GP73]

I bought a hyperperf stub shaft and found that the flange on the squared end rubs against the lower end. You could sand it lightly to have proper clearance.

I was wondering if getting a Hyperformance Angle Drive would be better overall. Less weight, better construction, no teflon tube, awesome look.

[Darin Jordan]

I was wondering if getting a Hyperformance Angle Drive would be better overall. Less weight, better construction, no teflon tube, awesome look.

Has a different transom to prop distance. I think it's tucked up tighter, if I remember correctly. I have one at home, I'll try to look tonight.

Pull the Teflon and do a brass liner like I showed previously. ZERO drag and super easy to maintain.

Better Looking??? I SCOFF at that notion...

[GP73]

Has a different transom to prop distance. I think it's tucked up tighter, if I remember correctly. I have one at home, I'll try to look tonight.

Pull the Teflon and do a brass liner like I showed previously. ZERO drag and super easy to maintain.

Better Looking??? I SCOFF at that notion...

Yeah, I've tried that as soon as I got the Stiletto... Turns out I'm not very good at bending brass tubing...

I'll try again at some point, I have the entire winter anyway.

And look is subjective, isn't it?

Thanks for a beautiful boat!

[Darin Jordan]

Yeah, I've tried that as soon as I got the Stiletto... Turns out I'm not very good at bending brass tubing...

Next time you try... heat the brass to an orange glow and then let it cool. That will anneal the metal and it'll bend without any issues. Once you get it shaped, I think you can harden it again. I just annealed mine, bent it to shape, and then put it in. Seems to be holding up great!

Looks are subjective...

But watch for that prop setback. These boats don't always like that to be changed...

[GP73]

Next time you try... heat the brass to an orange glow and then let it cool. That will anneal the metal and it'll bend without any issues. Once you get it shaped, I think you can harden it again. I just annealed mine, bent it to shape, and then put it in. Seems to be holding up great!

Looks are subjective...

But watch for that prop setback. These boats don't always like that to be changed...

Yes, I don't think I made it hot enough. That's why I need to retry with a new piece. I should really blueprint the sponsons too, but I've never done it and I'm afraid to ruin the hull.

No plans of buying the angle drive for now, but if you get around to check the measurements on your unit that would great!

About the stub shaft: I was surprised to see the grub screws sticking out that much, what would be the reason for that? They run out of shorter ones?

[Darin Jordan]

About the stub shaft: I was surprised to see the grub screws sticking out that much, what would be the reason for that? They run out of shorter ones?

I think, actually, that the longer ones are CHEAPER... I just stuck them on the end of an old allen wrench, and sanded the ends down until they were shorter. Works fine.

Next time you try to do your brass... heat it up, then slide a piece of 1/4" flex (I think that's the right size), down inside the brass before you bend it. On mine, it was a "just fits", fit, and it keeps the tubing from kinking. I just worked it very slowly until I got it where I wanted it.

[forescott]

Darin, Which lawless flex did you use for the stilletto? I found K&b/3.5 K&b/7.5 & a flex for the g-drive?? My stock flex has a pretty good "kink" where the square end was pressed. So I might as well upgrade.

[forescott]

I received 2 stilletto outboards today w/o motors. The first thing I noticed is that the prop shafts are very difficult to turn by hand. They should spin pretty easy without a motor attached. So I took one apart and tried spinning the flex shaft by itself inside the teflon. Still difficult to spin! I can see this being very difficult for any brushless motor to spin any prop with this much resistance. I think adding the brass tubing in leu of the teflon is going to be a "must" for the stilletto.

[forescott]

I also found that my flex cables have a pretty good "kink" where the square end was pressed. This can't help either!

[Rumdog]

OH. That's no good!