New Guy Here Looking For 29 MG Upgrades...

[Z7What]

So ive tried just about every combination of battery location and strut angle and height and its still wanting to bounce out the water at WOT when going in a straight light.

Yesterday i did find that some of the water splashing up on the back side the boat is actually come from the strut, so when i get time im going to sharpen that. I also have been told that installing a offset rudder will help alot of my issues. Any chance someone can point me into the right direction to find a offset rudder that will work on my boat which i believe to be a V2. I dont see anything listed in the OSE Store. If the offset rudder doesnt fix the bouncing ill just have to spend the time and blueprint the hull. The problem is i think ill have to remove to much material to get it flat which would make the hull paper then in areas if not a hole.

I picked up a X442 prop that im going to try but i need to sharpen and balance it first.

@eehess81 I understand that angling the prop down with lift the back more but it would also lower the front, my thought process was thinking if i can keep the front down by adjusting the prop angle i could move the batteries all the way back to help keep the back down.

When i first got the boat i only ran it on 3S(2 3S Traxxas ID batteries in parallel) with the stock prop and it ran flat! I think it ran flat because of two reason. One being that the batteries i got with the boat are much heavier than the batteries i have now and it was slower on 3S. Id bet that both of my new batteries combine weigh less than one of the Traxxas batteries.

Wayne

[Z7What]

Yesterday i tried a few more strut adjustments to try and get the bounce out of it and i think im moving in the right direction. I have the bottom of the strut level with the bottom of the hull. It still bounces some but if i stay in it through the bouncing it flattens out. I was going to make a few more adjustments to try and get the bounce out of it completely but i didnt up hitting what i believe to be a turtle. It bent the knife edge of the rudder and put a hair line crack in the gel coat on the transom. I was able to bend the rudder back and make it perfectly straight again and today i will be filling the transom area with epoxy. I planned to use an industrial grade 5 min Devcon epoxy to strengthen the transom. But im wondering if just epoxy is enough or should i use some sort of angel hair/fiber glass or carbon fiber and resin?

Wayne

[Z7What]

Transom.jpg
Rudder.jpg

Wayne

[koen]

use West system epoxy and carbon fiber

[Z7What]

use West system epoxy and carbon fiber

Is this the stuff you would recommend?

https://www.amazon.com/System-Epoxy-...3017493&sr=8-7

https://www.amazon.com/Carbon-Fabric...%2C198&sr=8-17

Wayne

[koen]

ya absolute it's the best you can get

[fweasel]

I would reinforce the transom on that hull with a piece of 2mm carbon fiber plate cut to fit. Remove the rudder and all mounting hardware, sand and clean the inside surface, then mock up a template made from paper. Transfer to the carbon plate and cut it out. Sand the glassy surfaces of the CF plate with coarse sand paper to improve adhesion. Tape off the holes on the outside of the hull with painters tape, then glue the plate to the inside of the hull with a generous amount of epoxy. Do not use fast curing epoxy, it's brittle. I prefer West System G-Flex or standard JB Weld would work here as well. Press it into place and clamp if you have the tools to do so. Once it sets, I would run an additional bead of epoxy around the perimeter of the plate to fill in the rest of the rudder mount standoff on the inside of the hull, that is, if there wasn't enough epoxy poured in the first place and there are still exposed edges. Once it's all cured, re drill all necessary holes, starting with a smaller pilot bit, and file to the correct size to limit the water leak potential. Remount the hardware, use a small amount of clear bathroom silicone caulk to seal the holes, and torque down the hardware accordingly.

An alternative method would be to cover the holes on the outside of the hull with painters tape, and fill in the rudder standoff area on the inside of the hull with a mix of slow cure epoxy and chopped fiber, carbon or glass, until its flush with the sides of the transom. Once cured, redrill your holes, install longer mounting bolts, and reinstall the rudder assembly. If it were my hull, I would use the CF plate method.

[Z7What]

I would reinforce the transom on that hull with a piece of 2mm carbon fiber plate cut to fit. Remove the rudder and all mounting hardware, sand and clean the inside surface, then mock up a template made from paper. Transfer to the carbon plate and cut it out. Sand the glassy surfaces of the CF plate with coarse sand paper to improve adhesion. Tape off the holes on the outside of the hull with painters tape, then glue the plate to the inside of the hull with a generous amount of epoxy. Do not use fast curing epoxy, it's brittle. I prefer West System G-Flex or standard JB Weld would work here as well. Press it into place and clamp if you have the tools to do so. Once it sets, I would run an additional bead of epoxy around the perimeter of the plate to fill in the rest of the rudder mount standoff on the inside of the hull, that is, if there wasn't enough epoxy poured in the first place and there are still exposed edges. Once it's all cured, re drill all necessary holes, starting with a smaller pilot bit, and file to the correct size to limit the water leak potential. Remount the hardware, use a small amount of clear bathroom silicone caulk to seal the holes, and torque down the hardware accordingly.

An alternative method would be to cover the holes on the outside of the hull with painters tape, and fill in the rudder standoff area on the inside of the hull with a mix of slow cure epoxy and chopped fiber, carbon or glass, until its flush with the sides of the transom. Once cured, redrill your holes, install longer mounting bolts, and reinstall the rudder assembly. If it were my hull, I would use the CF plate method.

Thanks, that is a great idea. The transom has T-Nuts on the inside, would you suggest removing them and just using washers and lock nuts once everything is cured?

Are these two links the correct items to get?

https://www.amazon.com/WEST-SYSTEM-f...02IZFPQE&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Genmitsu-Mate...%2C211&sr=8-10

Wayne

[fweasel]

Yes, that's the correct epoxy. I buy my 2mm plates from OSE, so I don't know about the quality of the ones you linked to. However, for this project, I don't think it matters much.

As for the mounting hardware, I prefer to use blind or T-nuts on the inside, especially on shallow deck hulls that are hard to work in, which makes installing the bolts easier. However, it can be a tricky addition, which is why I left it out for a beginner project. Drilling straight through and using longer bolts with washers and lock-nuts would be the easiest. Getting the captures blind nuts embedded in the epoxy and keeping the threads clean can be tricky. I usually install bolts, with a generous amount of antiseize on them, into the blind nuts before epoxy is poured. Dab a small dot of silicone caulk into the last bit of exposed threads on the blind nut, then pour the epoxy over it all. The tension helps compress everything into place. I unscrew the bolts before the epoxy has fully cured, but will after it has set pretty solid.