My V3 Miss Geico progress

[fweasel]

Missed my V3 Blackjack 29 that I sold last year and want ed to buy another. My son preferred the green boat, so I found a Miss Geico V3 to add to the fleet. First thing I did was install a newer Dynamite DYNM3831 2000kV motor, larger ESC bullets, a .078 wire drive from Jeff Wohlt, and an upgraded strut from OSE.

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[fweasel]

First run was setup exact as I had been running my Blackjack, now owned by REDLINE1. Ran great on my old 440/3 prop, but heated up badly without much gain in performance on ABC 1715 and 1716 props. I later discovered the ESC wasn't configured for auto cell count and was arming for 3S, despite the fact I was running 6S. Hooked up the program card and got that sorted.

Next upgrade was additional cooling. The motor in my was running fine last weekend on the first few runs as long as the boat was moving, temps were in the low 120's on pretty aggressive props. However, the motor would heat soak and the temps spiked quickly as soon as the boat slowed down or stopped. I scribed a rectangular patch on the bottom of the last ride pad and then drilled out the four corners with a small bit on my Dremel. I then switched to a small mill bit and opened up the entire hole. Filed it square with a hand file until the water pickup snapped into place. The leading edge sat a little proud of the bottom of the hull so I ran the pick-up across a file laid flat on the work bench until it was flush. Mocked it up in place one last time and JB Welded it into position.

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[fweasel]

I needed to add a second water outlet and knew I couldn't handle seeing two different kinds of hardware, so they had to match. I had a matching set, but the existing outlet was epoxied in place and wouldn't come out. Turns out the previous owner of this boat ran epoxy or resin down the length of both sides of the hull to reinforce the seam. All well and fine, but it added a lot of additional thickness. Went hunting and found the same outlet on my Voracity. Pulled that one, drilled a new hole, and installed. Matching, nice. Hopefully the JB Weld is dry by tomorrow morning and I can test it out at the lake.

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[fweasel]

Took the boat out this morning and ran three sets of packs through it. First run was on one of my favorite props, the x440/3 sharpened by Dasboata. That prop is like hot sauce, it goes good on everything! Did a respectable 63.5mph. Next up was an ABC1715. Ran good, and did 68mph. Temps were recovering better with the additional cooling, but the ABC props are definitely not for sport running, just a handful of passes. I let things cool down while I ran another boat. Last up was an ABC1716, just a hair more pitch than the 1715. Boat looked really wet and no faster. I was stumped. Brought it back in and the strut had slipped and gone negative on the trim angle. I moved it back to my starting position thanks to a scribed line in the strut near the mount, and sent it back out for a few more passes. The ride attitude was much better, but the batteries were about done. Did 68.5mph on the initial few runs with the wrong strut settings.

I plan on drilling out the strut and using M4 hardware to get a little more torque on the strut mount itself. I'll also put some cross hatch marks into the strut and mount mating surfaces to increase the friction between the two. I had success doing that on the struts of my Zelos 36. I'm still a good 9mph slower than the run REDLINE1 had with my old Blackjack on a 1716 prop a few weeks ago. That boat was on a terror and was running great. Hopefully once I get my strut adjustment problem sorted I can get closer. Thankfully the water will only be getting colder as the season winds down.

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[MADRCER]

Good Job man! My best is 77.8mph or 78mph whichever GPS one wants to go by with a set up similar to what you are going for. Is that water intake causing any problems when you are making the strut measurement/adjustment? I would assume it's holding the boat up slightly on the left side when you are adjusting it on a level surface.

geico 77.8 mph run 2 9-24-17.JPG Geico 78mph telementry 9-24-2017.JPG

[flattrack]

Do you notice a significant difference in loaded RPM between the wire drive and the stock teflon .150 flex? Just wondering why you elected the wire drive as many are still using the stock or .187 on similar MG V3 fast setups.

[fweasel]

I started using wire drives after I had a friction issue with my Zelos. They cleared up that problem and were easier to maintain so I began using them in my other boats as the need for upgraded drivelines arose. When I bought this hull, it came with a stock flex cable that I wouldn't trust my props on, so a wire was the logical choice for me. To answer your question more specifically, I do not have data loggers on any of my boats and have no direct data to compare the two options.

[Tamelesstgr]

Ryan, just a note on the heat soak, all my boats did that after the run ended, very plain to see on the temp graphs. Not much you can do about it unless you are able to run a small water pump that is constantly on. I believe Travis had a thread that looked into something similar.

[CraigP]

I have a shore cooler, a pump in a 1 gallon bucket. If the heat soak gets to the 170 deg F range then you could start to de-guass the magnets. When I run it real hard, I've seen heat soaks get this high. One of the things that's different with the expensive motors is that they use extended temp range neo magnets, which are expensive. If you manage this heat, a lower priced motor MAY fill the bill. The heat is hard on windings and bearings as well. For me, it's cheap assurance!

[fweasel]

Ryan, just a note on the heat soak, all my boats did that after the run ended, very plain to see on the temp graphs. Not much you can do about it unless you are able to run a small water pump that is constantly on. I believe Travis had a thread that looked into something similar.

I have real time telemetry on a couple of the boats, the Geico being one of them, and its normal for the temps to spike after the run, and I get that, but this particular setup was asked to deliver above and beyond and the spikes were way worse than my other sport setups which is why I chose to augment the cooling with independent feeds to the ESC and motor.

[fweasel]

I have a shore cooler, a pump in a 1 gallon bucket. If the heat soak gets to the 170 deg F range then you could start to de-guass the magnets. When I run it real hard, I've seen heat soaks get this high. One of the things that's different with the expensive motors is that they use extended temp range neo magnets, which are expensive. If you manage this heat, a lower priced motor MAY fill the bill. The heat is hard on windings and bearings as well. For me, it's cheap assurance!

I've seen pictures of pit chillers used to pump cool water through the system when in dry dock, and the engineering behind that is right up my alley, but I have to carry enough crap to the lake as it is. I might throw some flexible lunch bag freezer packs into my backpack to cool off the motor in between runs when I'm testing with aggressive setups. Most of my boats are setup for full runs on 5000mAh packs, and do so safely, but this particular boat is fun to beat on for short periods for now.

[Bp9145]

Or you can do what I do. . .just bring a large cup full of ice or a large bag of ice and pour water in and then take some cold water in your mouth and blow it through the cooling lines several times until the motor and esc has cooled considerably and it cools it quite fast. I also have a nice cold drink if I'm thirsty. . .not a hassle for me at all. Simple and easily done. AND IT WORKS

[CraigP]

I bet it do, BP, I bet it do!

[fweasel]

If I bring an icy beverage to the lake, it sure as hell will be alcoholic and won't be funneled through a toy boat!

[Bp9145]

If I bring an icy beverage to the lake, it sure has hell will be alcoholic and won't be funneled through a toy boat!

You never know. . .it might make your boats go faster . .lol