trim tabs on miss geico

[kfxguy]

Well... we tried... Best of luck.

Lol. Im on the fence about it. I wanna like this boat but im not sure I wanna put the time into it. Ill already ordered a few things for it do im still gonna try them this weekend. Ill report back. Btw, my pads in the rear are perfectly flat.

[Darin Jordan]

Btw, my pads in the rear are perfectly flat.

If you put a straight-edge across the pads both laterally and longitudinally, across the entire pad, my experience with this boat tells me you'll find that the ride-pads have concavity to them ("hooks").

Further, I'm certain that the trailing edges of the pads are rounded, and not 90-degrees.

Both of these things can/will cause issues with how slippery the hull is in the water. The "hooks" act like suction cups, grabbing, then releasing, and generally "sucking" the hull to the water's surface. At speed, this can induce an occillation, or "bounce"...

The rounded trailing edges cause the water to follow the rounded edge up the back of the ride-surface a bit, again, causing drag.

I wish that some of this could be "manufactured" out of these, but mass production doesn't always allow it. I will say that Pro Boat is aware of this and they are working to improve the processes.

In the meantime, the rest of us tinker and fix these issues ourselves. Not that hard to do and the results are usually very worth it.

As for repainting the bottoms... I was able to prep all of my race-boats, and then I used some white paint to paint just the ride-pads. They look really good this way.





You can see the whole process by checking out this thread. http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...eico-Race-Prep

[kfxguy]

If you put a straight-edge across the pads both laterally and longitudinally, across the entire pad, my experience with this boat tells me you'll find that the ride-pads have concavity to them ("hooks").

Further, I'm certain that the trailing edges of the pads are rounded, and not 90-degrees.

Both of these things can/will cause issues with how slippery the hull is in the water. The "hooks" act like suction cups, grabbing, then releasing, and generally "sucking" the hull to the water's surface. At speed, this can induce an occillation, or "bounce"...

The rounded trailing edges cause the water to follow the rounded edge up the back of the ride-surface a bit, again, causing drag.

I wish that some of this could be "manufactured" out of these, but mass production doesn't always allow it. I will say that Pro Boat is aware of this and they are working to improve the processes.

In the meantime, the rest of us tinker and fix these issues ourselves. Not that hard to do and the results are usually very worth it.

As for repainting the bottoms... I was able to prep all of my race-boats, and then I used some white paint to paint just the ride-pads. They look really good this way.





You can see the whole process by checking out this thread. http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...eico-Race-Prep

Thanks for all your responses. Youve made me realuze something. If I do put short trim tabs off the back it would pretty much be the same as squaring off the back of the pad, no? Im going to straight edge them again. If they need to be done, I guess ill do it. This boat needs to be stable with the castle 2200kv motor if about to get. I might as well tinker with it a bit. Then after learning more I can move on to something faster. Prolly not a good idea wanting to jump straight into a 70+mph boat this early in my learning curve. Ive got a lathe, mill, vacuum bagging carbon fiber setup and other stuff at my disposal to work with.

[kfxguy]

Btw, check out this catamaran. Has trim tabs. I can adjust the same bounce out of it with them. Lol

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[Brushless01]

I run a BEC with a stock Geico and an x642 would it be safe to check 6s in it for around 2 minutes just to get a feel of the power?

[kfxguy]

I run a BEC with a stock Geico and an x642 would it be safe to check 6s in it for around 2 minutes just to get a feel of the power?

Nope

[Darin Jordan]

With the 80A ESC that comes in the newer BJ29's and IM31 V2, you can run 6S with the stock setup (BEC)... I don't think that's the case with the older 60A ESC... Should say in the specs that are included, or on the website.

[ray schrauwen]

Yes if the ride pads are short enough it would act as if the transom of the sponsons was a very sharp 90* but, I prefer to just redo the sponsons myself. They most likely don't make them 90* because it's harder to get the part to release out of the mold. Faster production, make more money.

Thanks for all your responses. Youve made me realuze something. If I do put short trim tabs off the back it would pretty much be the same as squaring off the back of the pad, no? Im going to straight edge them again. If they need to be done, I guess ill do it. This boat needs to be stable with the castle 2200kv motor if about to get. I might as well tinker with it a bit. Then after learning more I can move on to something faster. Prolly not a good idea wanting to jump straight into a 70+mph boat this early in my learning curve. Ive got a lathe, mill, vacuum bagging carbon fiber setup and other stuff at my disposal to work with.

[kfxguy]

With the 80A ESC that comes in the newer BJ29's and IM31 V2, you can run 6S with the stock setup (BEC)... I don't think that's the case with the older 60A ESC... Should say in the specs that are included, or on the website.

Mine is the newest version and its a 60 amp esc. It eill handle 5s for a short time. Split the cooling and it will have a better chance at surviving.

[kfxguy]

I went ahead and installed trim tabs tonight and I split the cooling to the motor and esc. I was going to just glue the tabs on but the glue wouldnt stick. Plus I realized I may need to move them around a bit. I ended up screwing them on. Two small pieces of wood I epoxied on the inside for the screws to grab and to reinforce it.

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[iop65]

i used the 60A on 5s (without the bec) for the whole summer with a 40 mm 1.4 tenshock prop , works perfect

[kfxguy]

i used the 60A on 5s (without the bec) for the whole summer with a 40 mm 1.4 tenshock prop , works perfect

I'd imagine it would. That a small not very aggressive prop.

[Darin Jordan]

Doesn't look like you've sharpened the leading edge of your rudder yet... Feel it... it's blunt... Might want to do that.

Tabs might help your situation, but that big, rounded off leading edge gap on them where they meet the sponson will be contributing to the drag. Again, it MIGHT benefit you, but ultimatly, you'd want those nice and tight against the sponsons.

Water doesn't break cleanly off of a rounded/curved trailing edge.

[kfxguy]

Doesn't look like you've sharpened the leading edge of your rudder yet... Feel it... it's blunt... Might want to do that.

Tabs might help your situation, but that big, rounded off leading edge gap on them where they meet the sponson will be contributing to the drag. Again, it MIGHT benefit you, but ultimatly, you'd want those nice and tight against the sponsons.

Water doesn't break cleanly off of a rounded/curved trailing edge.

thanks for the tip on the rudder. Didnt think of that. Yea I really need to bend the tabs in a brake. Those are temp tabs. I have some better material coming.

[kfxguy]

Here's an update. I put a offset rudder on along with trim tabs. Im not sure what you guys mean by adding more drag as the boat is faster than the hull can handle. Pretty much all the wawawa is gone now. Im keeping the trim tabs on. Here's a video of it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r0Nlm9SVKJ8&feature=youtube_gdata_player