trim tabs on miss geico

[kfxguy]

I have a 1512 2650kv castle too. What about 3s on it? That setup is in my shockwave right now. You want to see something grossly overpowered.....check this out
My geico is at the end of the video. The shockwave is on 3s with the castle 2650kv motor.

Heres the shockwave 26 on 4s with a smaller prop. With the larger prop it was way more uncontrollable. Lol

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hpOcOZhVuV0&feature=youtube_gdata_player

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=11Ydin1C8d0&feature=youtube_gdata_player

heres the shockwave again

[Darin Jordan]

I have a 1512 2650kv castle too. What about 3s on it? That setup is in my shockwave right now. You want to see something grossly overpowered.....check this out
My geico is at the end of the video. The shockwave is on 3s with the castle 2650kv motor.

I'd proceed with the 1515 1Y if it were me. A pair of 2S packs, one in each side, and watch your runtime. You'll find you can run almost as long as you did with the stock setup, however. The Neus are just way more efficient, and that motor won't even be working hard with that boat, which is what you want.

Then, concentrate on tuning and getting it handling right. Once you are there, then learn how to "tweak" props and play with the prop you already know works.

[photohoward1]

If he leaves the setup the same and just swaps power systems he will still have the same problems. I am concerned that it was only good for 37. My setup and an m445 was getting close to 50. I could go up to an m447 but the aq1800 was at its limit. Personally I have swapped better motors in for sport running all about 2200kv and stuck with the same props. Most setups only pull 80 to 90 amps and are all over 50mph. I swapped a neu 1515/1y 2200kv into my spec rigger with a H7 and hit 63. Everything was under 100 degrees on a 120 amp controller. Just keep working it.

[Darin Jordan]

If he leaves the setup the same and just swaps power systems he will still have the same problems. I am concerned that it was only good for 37. My setup and an m445 was getting close to 50. I could go up to an m447 but the aq1800 was at its limit. Personally I have swapped better motors in for sport running all about 2200kv and stuck with the same props. Most setups only pull 80 to 90 amps and are all over 50mph. I swapped a neu 1515/1y 2200kv into my spec rigger with a H7 and hit 63. Everything was under 100 degrees on a 120 amp controller. Just keep working it.

I don't disagree, Howard... The 1800KV AQ with the same 42x55 should still be good for at least 45mph... consistently. My IM31 with the Pro Boat 1800 (which admittedly doesn't have the power that the 1800AQ has), with that prop, is a 42mph boat, and it's a mono...

Listen to Howard... He knows! :)

[kfxguy]

So stock with just a prop change on 4s it runs 37mph. It should be faster?

[Darin Jordan]

So stock with just a prop change on 4s it runs 37mph. It should be faster?

If it's blowing off the water at that speed, then yes... with the right prop... and setup properly. A prop change on the Revolt with that motor is good for well into the 40's... and it's a Mono...

[kfxguy]

Mine has a 1500kv motor. Am I missing something?

[Darin Jordan]

Mine has a 1500kv motor. Am I missing something?

No, I must have missed something... I thought you said it had an Aquacraft 1800KV motor... I'm responding to too many threads today! :)

You'll need 6S with the 1500KV motor to go 50... (is that really on the box?? They must have added it recently, because it didn't used to be... Did it come with an 80A ESC??)

You CAN get there with the 4S setup, but you'll need to run an X447/3 or similar prop... My stock MG, one of the very first in the country, hit 47-48mph using a Prather 230 prop... Handling isn't ideal with that much prop, however.

[kfxguy]

Came with a 60 amp esc. I yanked it before running it and and put a 120 amp esc in. The box does say capable of 50 plus mph. So you saying I need a three blade prop?

[tlandauer]

You have gotten great advice PERSONALLY from Darin, that is great! I really don't want to hijack, but I understand that he is busy and you are waiting for responses, so if I may tell you my opinion on this: it is admirable that you don't mind going thru the trouble putting trim tabs on, and you seem to have two goals at the same time, hit 50+ mph and get rid of the wawawa's.
If I were you I will concentrate on getting rid of the bounce first, then you can increase your speed.
My MG came with a 2200kv ( Leopard4082) , out of the box ( new boat and motor) with a X642 it clocked 53+ mph. But I was bothered by the bounces, tried everything, in the end I trued the last two steps of the sponsons and the bounce was gone. So I am a believer in that process. You need to also adjust the angle of the strut, just by moving it up won't do most of the time because the stuffing tube is arched and pulling it up will result in an excessive positive thrust prop. Like someone said, you need to enlarge the hole on the strut blade so you can "gain" adjustability on the strut. I believe there is a thread by a member and in it he showed pictures of just what I am saying.
To you and Darin I apologize for interrupting.

[kfxguy]

No need to apologize. I appreciate your response. Im gonna mess around with it this weekend. I did change angles, height etc. Didnt make the hole bigger tho. If I can find a lime green paint color I like then ill flatten the bottom and repaint it. Seems like alot of work tho for something that shouldnt have such a bad flaw from the get go. I never noticed a motley crew doing this in all the vids I watched. O well. Ill over come it.

[kfxguy]

So I put a straight edge on my ride pads this evening. The rear two are perfectly flat. The bost does not sit flat on my counter however. It teeters. I moved the strut to be level with the ride pads. It was hanging 1/4" lower how I had it.

[tlandauer]

That's good news! You are right: 1/4" below is too low. Raise it gradually and observe. Watch out for the angle as you raise it---as Darin said, it should be neutral. I had to point mine down to have 1-1.5* negative, otherwise I will catch air and blow over on a straight pass, no such issue if I drive in a large turning radius.
The inner edge of the last two ride pads should be flat on your table, or at least symmetrically shaped. Then the sponsons curve upward as you go to the front. Yes, if you "rock" the boat front and back, it will have a slight "seesaw" movement, but when the boat is riding correctly on the water, I believe these two sections of riding pads count the most.
My MG was the earlier batch and if I put a straight edge there will be lower"valley" spots on those ride pads, though not too bad but enough to warrant a closer look and fix. There are other members who had gone further to improve the pads and I am sure you will find plenty info on that. Not trying to say that is what you need to do---obviously your pads are good, I am just saying my case.

[kfxguy]

Im considering selling it and just taking a loss. Its got two runs on it. I think I might just get a mean machine hull. What would be a fair price minus the electronics?

[Darin Jordan]

Im considering selling it and just taking a loss. Its got two runs on it. I think I might just get a mean machine hull. What would be a fair price minus the electronics?

Well... we tried... Best of luck.