miss geico bouncing problem!

[lenny]

Nice boat Ray,
I would put the cell at the back and work them forward.
May be flip flop the servo to the center.

[ray schrauwen]

Thanks Lenny!

Cells are going waaaay back next time I get out.

I thought a looong time about putting the servo in center or where it is and it looked nicer in the center but, it's easier to get an Allen Driver in there when I have to.

I'll be using 5 yr old Polyquest cells next time too, 4s2p, 25C 4350's. They have been on the shelf a year and are at perfect match still. A touch lighter too.

[lenny]

I just was thinking the servo was in the way for the cell to move back to the transom more.
What does the allen screw hold ?
Maybe a clip instead you could use on servo rod.

[ray schrauwen]

Yes, it would make cell movement easier.

Allen screw? If you mean the bolts on the servo, they go tight into the rubber mounts the servo came with no brass inserts but, washers and there is purple thread lock in the 3mm tapped aluminum servo mount blocks.

[lenny]

Ok, Allen bolts,
I was not sure how the servo was mounted and the rudder rod to servo horn.
On my boats for testing new setups,
I just use double sided tape and hot glue sticks and wood for temporary mounts.
Till I make up my mind where I want stuff.

[tlandauer]

I finally trued the last two riding pads on both sponsons, what a difference! The strut top is 5mm above the bracket---this is alot higher than I origainally ever imagined. Had to enlarge the hole on the strut so I can keep the thrust angle neutral. COG is per ProBoat instruction: 30% from transom.
I can really drive WOT w/o bounce on gentle wide arch turns, it catches air on straight though, ( did not flip, was careful) maybe an air dam made out of wiper blade later.
Thanks, everyone !

[4343]

did you sand your ride pads and repaint the geico yellow?

[tlandauer]

No, not yet anyway, I sanded them with a sanding block---was looking for a wooden one for rigidity, but guess this is 21century, lol... I got a rubber one from hardware store. use 100 grit first, easy does it, because the center of the pad is concave, so you take off the paint on the edges first, I stop there since I don't want to thin the hull, then i use my two fingers to hold a small piece of sand paper to sand off the paint in the center area. You can use 60 grit to rough it up a bit, but I mainly used 100 grit.
Used Bondo body filler, this is a bit confusing because there are several kinds, I settled on "Stage 3" Body filler. Name is PROFESSIONAL GOLD FILLER. It really doesn't matter I think as long as it is labeled filler because other kind you have to work with FG cloth---for heavy damage.
Mixing is daunting, it cures fast! I did a practice run, the ratio is not easy to get, read instruction, I ended up not worrying the exact ratio since you can not do it in a mixing cup like epoxy. Use putty knife and you know the drill. Use 400 grit wet sand to a satin finish.
BTW, I only did the two ride pads on each sponsons, the long, front pairs won't touch water, so I skiped them. Some people do, and i believe it is a better idea, i am just lazy.
I don't want to match the paint--hard to do, I will paint them white.