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Hey Skyword, you may have a little to much angle on the strut. If your boat does not get up to speed try taking a little less angle on strut. But you have the idea!
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Miss Geico CC1515 2200kv T180 2S2S- Twin Genesis with 2 2700kv 2 T180's 4S2P- Stiletto with 2030kv T120 4S1P-DF33 4082 1600kv T180 6S2P- and lots of gassers! -
yeah after testing 3xset lipos though it yesterday i jasoncyclone is right ,,, i found it to much angle moved it back almost level ,plus i had gopro mounted , still bounce in straight line ,but seems to smooth out just as i run out of water , lol need bigger pond , first test i did in choppy water was hard to tell as mine ,only bounces a little ,
i be testing heaver 4s4p 4500 5s packs next weekend , see if that settles it down . then i am going to fix the hull ride pads ,Comment
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I think smoothing the rides pads will also help settle the boat and make it more predictable to drive. I blueprinted my ride pads and installed the offset rudder and it runs like a dream!! I just balanced my geico at 32% from transom then kept adjusting the strut till she ran on rails....Miss Geico CC1515 2200kv T180 2S2S- Twin Genesis with 2 2700kv 2 T180's 4S2P- Stiletto with 2030kv T120 4S1P-DF33 4082 1600kv T180 6S2P- and lots of gassers!Comment
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I agree with this.
I just recently prepped a Mystic for a local club member and it's pretty amazing how "off" some of the hull bottoms can be. They seem to have a common trait, in that the ride surfaces touch at the very back, and up toward the front of the flats, and have a gentle arc upward in-between.
It takes some very careful block sanding at the backs and at the fronts, a little at a time, so get them in the "zone"... On my original Miss Geico, which I'm RE-Blueprinting right now (this is the boat I used to establish the initial 2-Lap NAMBA TT record with, prior to this re-work), was like out of shape even after blueprinting the first time. I think the earlier hulls were pulled from the molds a little "green"...
I have had to add 2-layers of glass on the inside of the back ride-pad surfaces because I had to sand so far down the material was getting thin. In hind-sight, it may have been easier to fill the pads instead. Either way, I think what needs to be done is to get the ride surfaces FLAT from the transom forward, where they are sitting on the setup table and touching evenly for at least the first 9-10" or so... and to have the rid-pads FLAT, fore-aft and side-side. Sharp trailing edges are a must as well.
It's a bit of work, but the results seem to be worth it.Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."Comment
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I notice your prop is a 2 blade. and is set much too deep from what I see in the pix.
in the past I have owned a Drifter (24" with x632 prop) and a Drifter L (36" with x640 prop) that ran very well indeed with 2 blade props and high rpm's.
I prefer a 3 blade on my present Cat(s) and raise the prop shaft accordingly.
My Cat hops and runs too loose) with a 2 blade prop, a 3 blade prop "glues it down tight" to the water's surface.
Shortening the stuffing tube isn't that hard, I remove the strut leaving the tube still attached to the hull. then dremel cut the tube and reinstall the strut, this way the motor alignment is undisturbed.
Harry
from AtlantaLast edited by Old Sloppy; 04-10-2012, 12:28 PM.60" Expresscraft SuperCat
(2) 2028 Castle motors 64.7 mph
10s3p with x450/3 props 15,000 mah 40c cells,
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at lest once there done ,ride pads that is , you eliminate them as a cause of the bounce , then its just a matter of fine tuning SG hardware ect . mine are pretty bad need filling,, its worth it though , if you can find the time .Comment
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Ran the other day with the prop strut angled slightly down and the shaft level with the ride pads as seen in my previous post.
The wind was blowing steady at maybe 15mph and the water had a solid 2 to 3 in chop. (Pond is out in the middle of miles of flat farm fields)
When I was running into the wind the porpoising was the same. (consistant when at 3/4 throttle and above.
When running with the wind the hull was dead flat and looked great!
My Question is this: Could the tunnel be compressing to much air and liftingI the back out of the water? When running with the wind it was essentialy catching less and not creating as much?
I know these are pretty deep thoughts but it was obvious there was a big difference into or with the wind.
When the wind did settle down the porpoising was still there both directions but when it was blowing and choppy it ran great with the wind!
Reply if you want, if not I understand!
JJComment
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When you are running into the wind you are getting much for lift on the bow "under the tunnel" of your boat causing the chop. When running with the wind you have less lift causing less bounce. The bounce is caused by the front of the boat lifting then not having the power to keep the bow up thus droping the nose then repeating the same over and over. You need to run your hull in normal wind conditions for your area then adjust the strut negetive or positive angle to get the boat to ride smooth. Hope this makes sense???Miss Geico CC1515 2200kv T180 2S2S- Twin Genesis with 2 2700kv 2 T180's 4S2P- Stiletto with 2030kv T120 4S1P-DF33 4082 1600kv T180 6S2P- and lots of gassers!Comment
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strut.jpg
Hello, I would like to know If I have to stick with glue the 2 metal parts that I have circled in red on the picture.
This two parts always tend to separate themselves especially when I raise the drive. Last time it has even broken the flex shaft.
Thanks for helping.Comment
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It needs to have the weight of the lipos a bit forward. I had the same problem until I moved the lipos forward 3/4". Now it it runs flat and really moves out. I use a X642 that has been detongued.IMPBA 20481S D-12Comment
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