Remove Stock Strut Bushing from MG

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  • Piranha22
    Member
    • Aug 2007
    • 88

    #1

    Remove Stock Strut Bushing from MG

    Hello,

    I recently purchased the Kinetic greaseable bushing. I was wondering if someone could make any suggestions on how to remove the stock bushing from the strut? I have tried catching the inner lip with a flat head and tapping it out with no success. It seems to be in there really good.

    Thank you!

    Pete
  • lectriglide
    Senior Member
    • Nov 2009
    • 538

    #2
    Haven't tried it myself but ... see post #44 by Scott

    http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...t=25255&page=2

    Comment

    • Piranha22
      Member
      • Aug 2007
      • 88

      #3
      Thanks lectriglide! I will try the drill method. From what Scott says there are two bushings in the strut. Is the Kinetic greaseable bushing a replacement for both or only the rear one?

      I greatly appreciate the assistance.


      Pete

      Comment

      • d.a.v.e
        Senior Member
        • Jan 2011
        • 222

        #4
        I had no luck getting mine out be careful as I messed mine up and the new parts from Proboat are on back order. I just got an alternative strut I have yet to try out.

        Comment

        • Blockhart
          Member
          • Jun 2011
          • 39

          #5
          I had to drill them out of both ends. Did some damage to the leading end of the strut. Then wasn't getting a good seal between the strut and the through tube which caused the greese to pour out wile running and blew water up inside the boat. Sealed it up for now with some silicone and no more leaking. Now useing just the one Kintec buching and seams to be working fine so far. It is a bit lose so you might want to glue it in with something although I have not.
          Miss Geico?

          Comment

          • lectriglide
            Senior Member
            • Nov 2009
            • 538

            #6
            Originally posted by Piranha22
            Thanks lectriglide! I will try the drill method. From what Scott says there are two bushings in the strut. Is the Kinetic greaseable bushing a replacement for both or only the rear one?
            Not sure it will even work without drilling out since Scott mentions a ridge between the two stock bushings (to keep them spaced / separated??)

            Comment

            • Piranha22
              Member
              • Aug 2007
              • 88

              #7
              Thanks guys. I think I will hold off a bit before changing mine out. I don't want to ruin my strut and not be able to get another one. I already sliced up my fingers pretty good trying.

              Maybe someone will make an aftermarket one with bearings instead of the bushings.


              Pete

              Comment

              • d.a.v.e
                Senior Member
                • Jan 2011
                • 222

                #8
                I wondering if they are back ordered because they are changing over to a new version that Derrin alluded to in the thread on the updated version of this boat.

                I'll let you know if the after market one I bought works out?

                Comment

                • Piranha22
                  Member
                  • Aug 2007
                  • 88

                  #9
                  Please do d.a.v.e, that would be great.

                  Comment

                  • d.a.v.e
                    Senior Member
                    • Jan 2011
                    • 222

                    #10
                    I put the new one on tonight. The new one has teflon bearings so hopefully it will not be making the seizing type noises I was getting with the stock bushing any longer? It is really close in size to the stock one but the part that screw goes though was not wide enough to fit the stock mounts and the mounts that came with it would have pushed everything back and would have required me to drill holes so the rudder would mount it. I opted to grind the inside part down about 2-3mm. The stuffing tube looked to be about 1mm smaller then the new strut. It probably would have worked just fine but I added a little clear heat shrink to ensure a good seal and no problems.

                    If your interested it was the 3/16th adjustable strut part# #503B29-B here: http://kintecracing.com/Hardware.html

                    Comment

                    • Piranha22
                      Member
                      • Aug 2007
                      • 88

                      #11
                      Cool! Please let me know how it runs with the new strut. If you could add a pic of your work that would be awesome.

                      Thanks,

                      Pete

                      Comment

                      • d.a.v.e
                        Senior Member
                        • Jan 2011
                        • 222

                        #12
                        I moved the strut up pretty high today and extend the shaft out just a bit so it was not touching the strut mounting hardware and the bounce was pretty much gone today. So far its the best I've done, guess there is hope after all of getting rid of the bounce .. Down side was my drive shaft broke after about 2 min sinking to the bottom of the pond with my prop My fault I noticed two small chunks/dings out of it last night but did not realize how easy this would break

                        Anyway here is a picture after my run today, you can see the crappy work I did to cut it to fit. I used a cutting wheel on a dremel and was not real careful.. but hey it worked & you can see some of the grease that crept out into the shrink wrap.



                        Overall I think this alternate strut will work, but am going to have to wait another week or so to get a new drive shaft before I can try again

                        Comment

                        • Piranha22
                          Member
                          • Aug 2007
                          • 88

                          #13
                          Thanks for posting the pic d.a.v.e.! Are you concerned about the grease flowing into the shrink rap? Is there a better way to tighten up that seal into the new strut?

                          Pete

                          Comment

                          • Blockhart
                            Member
                            • Jun 2011
                            • 39

                            #14
                            i sealed it up with a bead of silicone
                            Miss Geico?

                            Comment

                            • tiqueman
                              Fast Electric Addict!
                              • Jul 2009
                              • 5669

                              #15
                              Hey guys, I just saw this. If your going to remove the bushings using the drill method, use a bit that is one size up from 3/16 which would slide right thru. You barely apply pressure and spin it up fast then almost immediately pull it away. It pulls the bearing right out. I did one today and did 4 of the HOTR 70mm stingers 2 days ago. Did them all in less than 5 minutes and no damage anywhere. Dont make it harder than it is. Your not drilling them out, your using the bit to grab them and they will spin out. Once removed, the bearing will look almost perfect except for a little bite mark from the bit where it grabbed it. And you should do this w/ a new bit, not an old dull one.
                              -Scott
                              Geico epoxy laminate hatch sale thread Black Jack epoxy laminate hatch sale thread
                              HPR06 6S Twin HOTR Genesis (SOLD) Vantex 32" cat Geico racing
                              WEST FL MODEL BOAT CLUB www.scottskiracing.com

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