The stock motor..Ive got in the upper 40's on 5s with the stock motor..On 6s the stock motor should be in the mid 50's..I just dont want to push the sk180 too much and thats why Ill stick with 5s..Im thinking about getting a Jae 21 fe rigger for upper 50's and low 60's runs..
5S?
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5s
how do you run thus boat on 4s with a stock motorand ecu. is it wired in parellell or series?On 5s this boat rocks.. I use a 40c 5000mah 2s pack and a 3s 40c 5000mah pack..It will blow your mind the first time you do it..And youll have to be easy on the throttle untill you find the sweet spot balance point cuz youll have blowovers at wide open throttle..
Heres the packs I use and they are great!! http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=16194
thanks
gek1946Comment
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Im not sure how you guys got the bounce out and claim its ALL about the offset rudder fixing the bounce.. Id put my boat up to bet that that certainly is not the fix. It may help, but is not the cure. Its about finding the right ride attitude. Cog and strut height is everything to do w/ it. Ive got the bounce 100% gone while still keeping the rudder inline. I use an offset only because I race it. My particular hull bounced more when I changed to the offset. Many newbs will get upset when they spend the $$ on an offset and it mysteriously doesnt fix the issue. Id refrain in the future from pointing people believing thsi is the "cure". It certainly is not. If youd like a vid of an offset boat bouncing, I have them.Comment
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I can't see there being any issues with mixing C ratings as long as the weakest pack is enough for the power demands of the boat.No that would not be good. The lower c pack will have a harder time keeping up. Running ANY batts in series should ALWAYS be the same mah and c rating. and when running in parallel they must be the same voltage, mah and c rating. I also use the same brands and packs with similar number of cycles.
ie 2s5000mah 30c and 3s5000mah 50c. As long as 150a (30c) is enough current, then it will be fine. If you need the 50c output, then you definitely need all packs to be at least 50c.Light travels faster than sound, so people may appear to be bright until you hear them speak.Comment
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I have to agree with this... I only offset mine because I didn't like the way the thrust was interupted when I'd turn. The "bounce" was a matter of strut and balance...
Not to mention the fact that offsetting it to the right gives one the opportunity to install a second rudder on the left!
Which might be interesting for upgraded power systems... (drags too much for the stock power system)
Darin E. Jordan - Renton, WA
"Self-proclaimed skill-less leader in the hobby."Comment
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I personally would NEVER try it (mixing c ratings) and being that I never tried it and never plan on trying it I would not offer that advise. JMOI can't see there being any issues with mixing C ratings as long as the weakest pack is enough for the power demands of the boat.
ie 2s5000mah 30c and 3s5000mah 50c. As long as 150a (30c) is enough current, then it will be fine. If you need the 50c output, then you definitely need all packs to be at least 50c.
* Not saying it cant be done, or hasn't been done because I am sure it has, I just don't mention things I would do myself...Comment
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I agree 100% with ya...still have the bounce...never even ran the boat with the stock rudder set-up so I have nothing to compare to...Now it is time to play with COG and strut heightIm not sure how you guys got the bounce out and claim its ALL about the offset rudder fixing the bounce.. Id put my boat up to bet that that certainly is not the fix. It may help, but is not the cure. Its about finding the right ride attitude. Cog and strut height is everything to do w/ it. Ive got the bounce 100% gone while still keeping the rudder inline. I use an offset only because I race it. My particular hull bounced more when I changed to the offset. Many newbs will get upset when they spend the $$ on an offset and it mysteriously doesnt fix the issue. Id refrain in the future from pointing people believing thsi is the "cure". It certainly is not. If youd like a vid of an offset boat bouncing, I have them.Comment
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I wonder how many people have tried just taking the stock strut apart and putting it back together or simply just adjusting the strut first. I'm sure when its apart to put on the offset bracket they pay more attention to the strut setting than the person assembling it at the factory.Light travels faster than sound, so people may appear to be bright until you hear them speak.Comment
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My first run is always "as it came" Then its constant testing and adjusting of the strut. If I built teh boat from an empty hull, then I set it at neutral and levl w/ the bottom of the sponsons and go from there. Id say everyone adjusts it. Its part of dialing in a boat.I wonder how many people have tried just taking the stock strut apart and putting it back together or simply just adjusting the strut first. I'm sure when its apart to put on the offset bracket they pay more attention to the strut setting than the person assembling it at the factory.Comment
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is the 42x55 a better prop to run than the x642. I have a 642 and am not getting in the 40s with the 4s. What 4s batterys should i use to get in the 40s and should i go to the 42x55the kintec offset rudder fixed my problem with the bouncing no doubt.I am also wanting to run 5s and 6s on my boat,so i will be following all advice as far as that goes to.One thing i have seen is people running the leopard 4074.Some say you cant run 6s on it.I also want to increase speed.My fastest so far running on 4s and 42x55 is 44.2.i want to run in the high fifties if possible.which motor will run good on 5s and 6s?
thanks
gek1946Comment
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