Run time ???

[budman10]

What kind of run time will I get with this set up
( stock motor ,seaking 80hv and two 3 cell lipo 5000 MA and a x442 or a 42/55 grim prop. Just wondering how many battery packs too buy thanks

[jac4412]

Realistically you should only run your boat for the max of 5 mins. With that setup I can see you getting 5-7 minutes of solid runtime but again, what many people forget is that you shouldn't run a FE for extended periods. As you increase in speed you decrease in run time normally. Especially since you'll hit the LVC anywhere in 6 mins. The purpose of running your boats from 2-5 mins max is to preserve your ESC and batteries. If you keep pushing it, doesn't matter how good your batts or esc is... they won't like it eventually.

[pyroM!KE]

I feel dumb for asking but, What the hell does FE mean..

[jmeyer]

Fast Electric

[pyroM!KE]

Fast Electric

Thats what I thought..I just wanted to be sure..

[pyroM!KE]

You know, this has been on my mind..Why dont we just install a separate water inlet for the esc and a separate inlet for the motor..To me, with one inlet for the motor+esc, this is what I think happens..Think about it..The water comes in the esc first then heats up..The warmer water then goes through the motor(this is not efficient)...With separate inlets, the water would be the coolest it could possibly be, in effect have a more efficient cooling effect..

Im new to boats, and when I seen the stock setup, I instantly thought about this..

Would you disagree?

This is just something Ive been thinking about..Even if it helps as little as 5 deg in my eyes would be a more efficient setup..

This way mabey you wouldnt worry so much about esc temps..Then you could just focus on your batteries (capacity-run time) without worrying so much about motor esc temps...Mabey you would only gain like 30 more sec...But hey 30 sec is 30 sec..

Of course I too am looking for a longer more efficient run time...I really think this would help..The extra drag from a extra inlet wouldnt hurt my feelers..I am a basher not a racer.

And hey, why not have 2 inlets on a rudder setup instead of one! Of course you would want an extra outlet as well.Its not like extra tubing-fittings would be more weight..I want my outlets facing up at the rear of the boat anyway to give it more of a rooster tail effect..hehe Kinda like the Yamaha waverunner jetskis do..

[Diesel6401]

I have dual water pickups on my sv. No major difference believe it or not. I did some fail safe water-cooling system playing around with different cooling routing. I have it setup the either the rudder or the pickup can supply proper cooling to both the esc and motor meaning if one gets clogged the other can still supply. Being in aviation everything has a backup so that's why I did it that way. No major difference, added a little bit of drag. That's the only boat I did it on, all the others have 1. I have boats that run less then 100F after a 4 minute run. I still only run for that time though, cooing isn't the issue it becomes a batttery issue. I don't like hitting the lvc. Some of my seaking esc's have the lvc dis-abled so timing is a must.

[JackBlack26]

IMO, the motor can take it considering that only temperature will damage it. Temps over 200* start to kill the rotor. It's the batteries and ESC I would watch since they are the ones providing the load current. If you're running on 6s the 42x55 is to big of a pro, IMO. I think Grim makes a 40x53. I would go with that since you will be running higher RPMs.

[jac4412]

You know, this has been on my mind..Why dont we just install a separate water inlet for the esc and a separate inlet for the motor..To me, with one inlet for the motor+esc, this is what I think happens..Think about it..The water comes in the esc first then heats up..The warmer water then goes through the motor(this is not efficient)...With separate inlets, the water would be the coolest it could possibly be, in effect have a more efficient cooling effect..

Im new to boats, and when I seen the stock setup, I instantly thought about this..

Would you disagree?

This is just something Ive been thinking about..Even if it helps as little as 5 deg in my eyes would be a more efficient setup..

This way mabey you wouldnt worry so much about esc temps..Then you could just focus on your batteries (capacity-run time) without worrying so much about motor esc temps...Mabey you would only gain like 30 more sec...But hey 30 sec is 30 sec..

Of course I too am looking for a longer more efficient run time...I really think this would help..The extra drag from a extra inlet wouldnt hurt my feelers..I am a basher not a racer.

And hey, why not have 2 inlets on a rudder setup instead of one!

Well again, it isn't just temperature that youre looking at that can damage the ESC... Over any sort of run youre going to get different amp draw... no matter what. Even in the calmest of water, the ESC will be putting in work. Overtime, this "work" is what kills your ESC, and that happens to everyone.. no matter what. We just try to do our best to eliminate extra work as best as we can. The faster the boat, the more influence on the ESC. For instant, I'm calm and cool running my widowmaker for 8-10 mins solid. First off, the thing is barely hitting 30 mph, and the setup isnt nearly as fast pace as my MG. My MG on the other hand, I cut her off at 5 mins... Like dies said you kinda don't want to hit the LVC, thats a safeguard and shouldn't be used unless you cant avoid it. Batteries don't like it. ESC's don't like it. In terms of the temp, you should have your water cooling hitting the ESC first, then the motor... the motor can take more temp than the ESC typically. So as the water should be moving at a good clip through your system, it shouldn't have a big deal on the boat if it's a few degrees cooler after coming through the esc. As long as the ESC is cooled, youre golden. If you want longer runtimes... set up your MG to run around 25 mph with a different motor and esc. Once you start going into the high 30s/40 mph it should be a 5 min runtime max. That's what I run, even if I can push it just a bit more.

[pyroM!KE]

Well again, it isn't just temperature that youre looking at that can damage the ESC... Over any sort of run youre going to get different amp draw... no matter what. Even in the calmest of water, the ESC will be putting in work. Overtime, this "work" is what kills your ESC, and that happens to everyone.. no matter what. We just try to do our best to eliminate extra work as best as we can. The faster the boat, the more influence on the ESC. For instant, I'm calm and cool running my widowmaker for 8-10 mins solid. First off, the thing is barely hitting 30 mph, and the setup isnt nearly as fast pace as my MG. My MG on the other hand, I cut her off at 5 mins... Like dies said you kinda don't want to hit the LVC, thats a safeguard and shouldn't be used unless you cant avoid it. Batteries don't like it. ESC's don't like it. In terms of the temp, you should have your water cooling hitting the ESC first, then the motor... the motor can take more temp than the ESC typically. So as the water should be moving at a good clip through your system, it shouldn't have a big deal on the boat if it's a few degrees cooler after coming through the esc. As long as the ESC is cooled, youre golden. If you want longer runtimes... set up your MG to run around 25 mph with a different motor and esc. Once you start going into the high 30s/40 mph it should be a 5 min runtime max. That's what I run, even if I can push it just a bit more.

So what your saying temps dosent affect efficiency? Arent temps what we are all constantly worried about?

[jac4412]

No they absolutely do... but the two different pickup systems wont really make a huge difference... especially in the MG system. In a really hot running system I can totally see a few degrees mattering... but in our case, as long as our ESC is cool, we'll be fine. The water going to the motor from the esc is just as adequate for what we run in comparison to separate cooling lines and intakes.

Better off sticking a piece of dry ice around your motor... you could make an outlet that way you'd get smoke too! That would be cool....

However in all seriousness... if you guys are planning our running these over 5 mins... might want to check that option out, but still I wouldn't recommend doing so without really changing your setup.

[jac4412]

And to clarify why were are worried about temps... the temperature does the damage... but the temps are caused by the amps drawn from the Batteries through the ESC. That's why you want to keep a restricted runtime because no matter what.. temps will rise and cause damage over time

[pyroM!KE]

No they absolutely do... but the two different pickup systems wont really make a huge difference... especially in the MG system. In a really hot running system I can totally see a few degrees mattering... but in our case, as long as our ESC is cool, we'll be fine. The water going to the motor from the esc is just as adequate for what we run in comparison to separate cooling lines and intakes.

Better off sticking a piece of dry ice around your motor... you could make an outlet that way you'd get smoke too! That would be cool....

However in all seriousness... if you guys are planning our running these over 5 mins... might want to check that option out, but still I wouldn't recommend doing so without really changing your setup.

Ohh ok..I get ya...

It might just be the budweiser talking...I thought long and hard about it though..
I love my hobby!

Though I still think you could keep a motor cooler..

[jac4412]

My motors about to get really cool... like 10 degrees outside and getting slammed with snow. Going to be wonderful shoveling tommorow...

[pyroM!KE]

LOL guys..I am a newb....Now I feel really small..hehe

Hey its the thought that counts right?

I still want my outlets spraying out the rear up to make the rooster tail look bigger... LMFAO


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