Just got my MG...I love it!!

[pyroM!KE]

This is a bada$$ boat..It looks fast just sitting there..I havent ran it yet..I have a question.But first heres what I got so far..Im gonna run it 2s in series..Ive got the 5.5 bullets everywhere..Just installed a b&s x642.I have the turnigy 5000 40c batts..I think im ready .With my setup, where should I start with my battery positioning?

What is a good grease to run on the flexshaft.I would prefer to get grease from Walmart if theres any there recommended.Ive done enough ordering lately..

[Boomer]

Good starting point

error - see message below

[Boomer]

Good starting point

Congrats on the new boat! You are off to a good start. I suggest reading through the threads in this section to catch up on all the testing that has been done on this subject.

Conclusions are that the prop shaft is more critical to eliminating the bounce or porporising, but battery position can play a role as well.

There are photos of shaft positions that have resolved/eliminated any bounce with the batteries in their normal locations.

I think if you read through the treads, you'll find a lot of good information. I have played around with my batteries, but found their location was best used to fine tune the boat once I had the shaft in the right place.

I also found, that the faster my boat went the better it was. I got my best results with shaft angle and then using the batteries to fine tune the boats trim from that point.

I have tried the 3 types of rudder off sets, and found Kintec Racing's 2nd version works best for me. I am going to go back to the stock set up now that I have the bounce issue resolved, to see if the rudder off set really has any affect or not.

It was though that the prop wash was hitting the rudder assembly, which created lift and was encouraging the bouncing most of us experienced. Not so sure of how much affect it really has. My next tests will tell me.

Anyway, check out the threads that contain discussion and pictures and you should be able to get some good bench marks to start from.

Oh, I use a white "lithium" water proof grease with good success.Can be found at most good hardware stores. Proboat sells their own, which is blue. They both work well. It is a good practice to service the flex shaft after each outting. Also be sure you have the correct winding on your flex shaft before you run it, as you may know - Proboat shipped a lot boats out with the shaft wound backwards. Not a good thing. There are pictures on the thread of how to tell. Once final tip, be sure you blow out the water in your cooling system after you are finished for the day. The Proboat ESCs are famous for getting crud and or corrorsion inside and if you don't blow out all of the water, you could end up having a cooling problem. I carry a can of compressed air in my kit, the stuff you use to blow off the dust on the key board on your computer.

Enjoy,
Boomer

[Diesel6401]

Good deal, glad you got your boat. I use Aquacraft Grim Racer Speed Grease, great stuff. For battery position I moved the batteries further back then stock and made some extension trays, I also drop the strut down.

[pyroM!KE]

I would prefer to get grease from Walmart if theres any there recommended.Ive done enough ordering lately..

[Boomer]

lithium grease is pretty much universal

Mike
I have never looked a Wally World's hardware section for this stuff, but they could have it. Lithium grease is used on wide range of marine applications, such as on boat trailer wheel bearings, shaft bearings, pretty much anything that moves that requires water resistant or water proof grease.

It is only special if you haven't used it before. Call um and ask um, if they'll answer their phone. Probably be cheaper there. I get a tube of it the size of a big tube of tooth paste and it will last a very long time.

It works as a lubricant, and as a water barrier at the same time. I mentioned servicing your flex shaft on each outing, that would include removing it, cleaning it with something like rubbing alcohol, inspecting it for any possible damages and or wear, then carefully applying a good coat of grease on the flex shaft, next re-installing it, and wipe off any accessive grease. It is also important to make sure the shaft to motor connector is always tight. They tend to work loose.

Some of the guys have used a small piece of clear tubing or fuel hose to make a small shaft tube collar to reduce or catch the grease that will be thrown off the shaft as it spins.

If I can find a picture of an example, I will post it a bit later.

Boomer

[pyroM!KE]

Thanks guys..You all are very helpful!

[JackBlack26]

I adjusted my strut to be even with the bottom of the ride pads and boy, what a difference!!!

[LiPo Power]

EDIT!!!


Note!!!
If the strut is level with buttom of riding pads some props will start hitting the buttom of strut mounting....
Here is few pictures with X642, M445, Prather 230....
Thanks
Robert

I adjusted my strut to be even with the bottom of the ride pads and boy, what a difference!!!

[pyroM!KE]

LOL yeah no kidding..We may have to get out the crayons..I dont understand a word you just said..I am such a newb..

[JackBlack26]

EDIT!!!


Note!!!
If the strut is level with buttom of riding pads some props will start hitting the buttom of strut mounting....
Here is few pictures with X642, M445, Prather 230....
Thanks
Robert

Agreed. One must always check clearance when installing a new, larger prop. My 42x55 clears by a hair! I might grind a grove in the bracket just in case it ever moves while running.

[ron1950]

tiqueman has a m445 on his and has drimeled the strut brace to make it clear...its not that bad....

[pyroM!KE]

Just wanted to add that I checked all my bolts and half of them were loose..I put locktite on all screws that dont have self locking nuts..No biggie..Thats how I had to check all my electric helis too..

[Boomer]

Break away or shear bolts - not a bad idea

Just occurred to me share with you a common practice on these boats is to use "break away" or "shear" screws/bolts in the bottom holes on you rudder bracket to reduce or eliminate the damage to the hull if your boat should hid a submerged object; such as a rock, piece of wood, a carp or a turtle etc.

Steve can get them of you here on OSE or at Kintec Racing. Some of the guys use them and some don't. I suspect the ones that do use them have hit objects in the water.

Just a tip, to be used as you see fit.
Boomer

[pyroM!KE]

What size are those nylon bolts? Thats a great idea instead of ripping the ass end of your boat off..
Also you would just use 1 of these bolts right?