I had this prop from my experimentation days with my BJ26 with an OS .18 in it. I read on this forum from, Diesel I believe, that it would work on the MG. Boy does it work!! The sound the prop makes in insane I think I found the sweet spot
Yeah, it was filmed with my wife's pink Sony Ciber-shot. I'm getting pretty good at filming and driving
Don't know what you mean by woa woa woa(), but it seemed to get on plane faster and was more consistent out of the corners. In person, the prop makes the boat sound like a freeking jet!
Run times went down just a hair, but nothing that I would gripe at.
woa woa woa or sometimes wah wah wah is the sound it makes while its bouncing. Listen to the vid, youll hear exactly what it is...
Any gps runs?
I thought that's what it was he was asking, but was confused because he was asking after seeing the video, where you could hear it doing it . It's doing it a bit less, but by what I hear from others, relocating the rudder should take care of that. I guess they call it "prop wash". I'm still new to tuning these things but hopefully moving the rudder over will help as advised.
Sorry, I don't have a personal GPS. But if I get my hands on one I'll see what it does with the stock prop and with this one.
One reason for the hull hopping is setting the strut to low or having a lifting prop. The 42x55 is not a lifting prop. Raise the strut slightly to relieve this. Adjust by 1/16" at a time. If you want to accelerate faster try a 3 bladed prop. Octura 440/3.
Alan has great advice Rafael. Do not fall into the "offset going to solve all my problems" way of thinking. I fell into that and let me tell you my suprise when I did it and it was worse. Its ALL about strut angle, height and cob. It takes a lot of patience and testing to get it right. Deisel and I both have our running extremely well. Hes still running an inline (at least he was) and I think he runs a tad higher than me, but basically, loosen the strut bolt, set the boat on a table and push itdown so that the backs of the sponsons are about 1/8" off the table while the strut is sitting flat on the table (no pos or neg angles) My cob is at 7-7/8"... IF your trays are in the same location as mine, I hung the batteries about 1/4" off the back. M445 has no bounce at all.
Tigman,
What is the difference betweeen a M445 and a x642? I have the 642 on my MG, which has produced a marked improvement over the stock prop. What batteries are you running. I am running the 2nd generation Kintec Racing off set with some success. I am going to try your set up to see how that works. I have tried a number of different shaft angles to date.
The best results were found when I out of ingnorance over powered the boat with 3s. If anyone whats to try it, you may get lucky and get some amasingly fast runs in, before you toast your stock ESC. During those runs at full throttle the boat took a set like a fuel flat bottom does on a perfect pass. No bounce and running on the prop and rudder. It was a beautiful site to behold. Now that I know the boat will go that fast, I want to enable it to do it, with out the "poof" affect again! I am shopping for a new motor, althought the stock motor is fine, I need some HP! I have the juice, just need the set up to do it safely.
Next question, is I am installing a Turnigy Marine 120A ESC, and was wondering if the Proboat programing card will work with it, and if not how do I program it?
New guy question, not proud just confused. There is sure a lot to learn with these things!
Thank you
Boomer
Tigman,
What is the difference betweeen a M445 and a x642? I have the 642 on my M, which has produced a marked improvement over the stock prop. What batteries are you running.
Next question, is I am installing a Turnigy Marine 120A ESC, and was wondering if the Proboat programing card will work with it, and if not how do I program it?
New guy question, not proud just confused. There is sure a lot to learn with these things!
Thank you
Boomer
Octuras numbering system works like this.. 442.. the first 4 represents the pitch (1.4) the last 2 numbers is the diameter in mm. (42) An M series is a detongued X series from the factory. So for example, an M442 and a X442 are the same prop diam. and pitch, but one is detongued. So an M445 is detongued, 1.4 pitch and 45mm.
EDIT, oh so really to answer your ?. the X642 is still 42mm, but has more pitch at 1.6. It also has its "tongue" where the M445 does not. And is 45 mm compared to 42. Batteries are Turnigy, 2S in series for 4S, 5000mah 40C, for sport running and race conditions, 2-4S 4000mah 30C in Parallel (4S2P)
No the PB will not program the Turnigy. But, the Turnigy is very easily programmable by your transmitter.
Pretty sure Boomer the Pro Boat card would not work with the Turnegy 120. It might but doubt it. It comes with pretty good instructions to program it using your Transmitter and the beep technique. I did it with mine and no problems. I bought the program module for my Turnegy 180 esc but have not used it yet. Supposed to be easier than the beep beep way.
I have one of these props too I think I will give it a shot on the new Miss G today. I had this prop on the sv27r on 4sp and was getting about 8-10 min rt.
Tigman,
What is the difference betweeen a M445 and a x642? I have the 642 on my MG, which has produced a marked improvement over the stock prop. What batteries are you running. I am running the 2nd generation Kintec Racing off set with some success. I am going to try your set up to see how that works. I have tried a number of different shaft angles to date.
M445 Detounged x445. Loosens up the load on the motor to allow for higher rpm.
X642 More pitch (increased load on the motor) and lifts the back of the hull up. Not a great choice for a cat IMO.
Alan has great advice Rafael. Do not fall into the "offset going to solve all my problems" way of thinking. I fell into that and let me tell you my suprise when I did it and it was worse. Its ALL about strut angle, height and cob. It takes a lot of patience and testing to get it right. Deisel and I both have our running extremely well. Hes still running an inline (at least he was) and I think he runs a tad higher than me, but basically, loosen the strut bolt, set the boat on a table and push itdown so that the backs of the sponsons are about 1/8" off the table while the strut is sitting flat on the table (no pos or neg angles) My cob is at 7-7/8"... IF your trays are in the same location as mine, I hung the batteries about 1/4" off the back. M445 has no bounce at all.
Still running the inline rudder with no intension on changing that. Me and Tig's strut depth is different because we are running different motors and props and have to adjust accordingly. I think our balance point is pretty close to being the same though. Extend those trays and move your batts to the balance poitn tiq suggested and try that out. My video is posted in my signature (stock with a prop change) First run and you can hear and see the bounce. I don't have new video yet of the new setup.
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