New MS. Geico owner. Haven't got her wet yet :P

[JackBlack26]

My LHS was having a black Friday sale and I went in just to see what prices they had on boats since I had settled on possibly geting a P1 King Of Shaves thinking they could get me a better deal on that than the Ms. Geico, even though the MG had my heart. I love cats! Tower has the P1 for $289 shipped after the $60 coupon and the LHS said that price was $3 cheaper than what they paid for it. Long story short, they cut me a better deal on the MG which put a huge smile on my face. $289+tax. Paid $316 out the door and I'm extremely happy with the purchase, though I have not ran it.

I wanted to go today and get the programming card as I didn't notice until I was home that it comes programmed for NiMh. But then I got to thinking, should get the programming card for the stock ESC or should I just upgrade to a Turnigy 60amp ESC w/ programing card. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I m not in a hurry to run it. Just want to get it right from the start. I plan to upgrade the prop, offset the rudder, lightly cover the canopy with resin to strengthen/thicken it a bit, and go through it with Loctite as well as read some more of what I find here on the forums. I'll be running it on 4S since I have 6-5000 MAH Turnigy packs and if I order the Turnigy ESC I will be ordering 4 more packs.

Anyways, here are some boring pictures of a stock MG

[NativePaul]

Grats, nice pictures, it may be stock but they show it off well. Note that resin alone will do very little for strength.

[JackBlack26]

Thanks for the input! So if threw 1 layer of glass cloth on it, would that be better? I'm not to worried about weight as the boat is just for fun. Just looking to keep it from disintegrating in a roll over.

[NativePaul]

Yes glass and resin is much much stronger than resin alone. More glass more strength, I don't have a MG so I cant tell you how many layers of what weight glass it would need to stop it disintegrating. If there was nothing there to start with I would probably use 2 layers of 180-200g/sm

[ron1950]

prop wise i have seen everything from m445 to x642 , some backcut some detounged.....read the forums and see what works for ya......

[JackBlack26]

Paul, do you know if that weight cloth can be found at the auto parts store, normally?

Ron, where can I find more info on "backcut and detongued" props? I have never heard those terms before. I played with a nitro BJ26 for a while but never got too much in to porps once I found that a Grim prop for the SV 27 worked well with it. So I'm not a complete noob, but I'm finding that I need to learn more on props.

Thanks to both of you for trying to help me :)

[ron1950]

some people know alot more then i do but as i understand it....detounged is cutting the leading edge of the prop slightly .....back cut is cutting the back side of the blade a bit.....each has its advantages..maybe someone else can elaborate on each.....

[JackBlack26]

That makes sense! Thanks.
I'll look in to that and see what more info I can find on the subject.

[NativePaul]

I don't know about your auto parts store but mine only has chopped strand mat not cloth, which is not really what you want.

De-tonguing cuts off the very leading edge of the prop which is the lowest pitch part, the hole shot wont be as good but mid range acceleration and top speed will be greater as has less load so is spinning faster and the low pitch and high pitch areas of the prop are no longer fighting each other.

Back cutting cuts off the trailing edge near the hub but leaves it at the tips which reduces the load allowing it to spin faster and also it increases rake which should reduce the props lift a little.

[JackBlack26]

Thanks for explaining that in a manner which I can understand,Paul. I'm a visual person, but that made plenty of sense.

I have seen the cloth at Pep Boys in a package with 2 part resin. It's next to the Bondo(might even be made by them) and other auto body part filler, stuff. I think that's what I need. I'll pick some up next time I'm there and give it a try. Hopefully I wont make a mess and end up worse than I started :P

[tiqueman]

JackBlack, just for a little more clarity, note that de-tonguing and removing the leading edge as Paul stated isnt removing a little material from end to end, its only removing the "ear" part. the end opposite the tip, where it leaves the hub where the drive dog slot is and goes away from the tip, then curves back around and heads towards the tip of the blade. That "tongue" or "ear" is what gets removed. An easy way to actually see it here on the site, go to the propellers page in the OSE store. Look at the Octura "X" series props. All of those have tongue. Now go look at the "M" series props, those are all the same as "X", but come detongued from the factory. Hope that made it even a littel easier to understand.

Also, your Autoparts stores, Advanced, AutoZone etc cloth is usually around 7 or 8 oz. A layer of that will help your hatch tremendously.

Congrats on your boat purchase!

[JackBlack26]

Thank you, tiqueman . Now being able to put pictures in the explanation makes it even easier to understand.

Thanks to everyone for being so helpful!!

[lectriglide]

Ron, where can I find more info on "backcut and detongued" props? I have never heard those terms before. Thanks to both of you for trying to help me :)

Here's some info on props.

http://rcboat.com/prop.htm

[Boomer]

They should all match - batteries, ESC, Motor and prop

JackBlack26
In your post you said "I'll be running it on 4S since you have 6-5000 MAH Turnigy packs and if I order the Turnigy ESC I will be ordering 4 more packs."

The MG is wired in series, and the stock ESC will not live very long on that much juice. When is series you double the volts.

If you try it with the stock 45amp ESC, the boat will go very very fast for a few full throttle passes, then proof or it may go proof on the first run, I was lucky and and when I tried it, I only toasted the ESC, but it could have burned the boat to water line. Won't do that again!

If you want to run what I call the "big block" batteries, get a big ESC to handle the juice. We are all learning this aspect of the hobby, and it can be very confusing. Some of the guys on this forum can help you select the best ESC and batteries for your boat and motor. Each has to be in harmony with the other, or
proof!

I have upgraded to a Turnigy 120A ESC and for my current set up, it should be about right.

Good luck and nice deal on the boat!
Boomer

[tiqueman]

JackBlack26
In your post you said "I'll be running it on 4S since you have 6-5000 MAH Turnigy packs and if I order the Turnigy ESC I will be ordering 4 more packs."

The MG is wired in series, and the stock ESC will not live very long on that much juice. When is series you double the volts.

If you try it with the stock 45amp ESC, the boat will go very very fast for a few full throttle passes, then proof or it may go proof on the first run, I was lucky and and when I tried it, I only toasted the ESC, but it could have burned the boat to water line. Won't do that again!

If you want to run what I call the "big block" batteries, get a big ESC to handle the juice. We are all learning this aspect of the hobby, and it can be very confusing. Some of the guys on this forum can help you select the best ESC and batteries for your boat and motor. Each has to be in harmony with the other, or
proof!

I have upgraded to a Turnigy 120A ESC and for my current set up, it should be about right.

Good luck and nice deal on the boat!
Boomer

Im guessing he meant he has 6 packs he can do 4S with. I dont think he meant hes going to run 6S.