proboat 29 batt/prop/motor

[angrycat]

Was it the stock ESC that gave out?
Chief

yes it was the stock 80a 6s esc and motor. i had gone about a half lap around the pond and was just up on plane about 1/4 throttle and just about got to 1/2 when it just stopped and the smoke came pouring out of the boat. brought it in and the esc battery wires had melted out of the esc and the capacitors had blown and leaked out the acid so it took a bit of cleaning to get it somewhat normal. i am going to raise the strut up 1mm more and try one more run with the m440 before i try my stock prop but it is just slightly sharpened and polished since my prop balancer broke recently.

[angrycat]

the esc was always under 90 degrees after a run and the water cooling was working really well too keeping the base of it around 60 -70 deg, but my motor is still getting hot quick

[hydro_pyro]

I have never noticed heat from the caps in the stock ESC. Bad battery connections? Bad luck?

[BHChieftain]

I really like the stock ESC but up to 4S (I REALLY like the level of water resistance on them-- I have had several completely underwater several times and have never had one fail due to water intrusion yet-- in fact, I've run 5 different boats with this ESC and the only time I've had any failure was when my cooling line got clogged due to water debris and my entire system overheated).

I think 6S is really pushing it myself. But if you use 6S on it it might help if you did not use the internal BEC and run a separate RX battery pack-- that should remove some stress from the system.
Chief

[angrycat]

I really like the stock ESC but up to 4S (I REALLY like the level of water resistance on them-- I have had several completely underwater several times and have never had one fail due to water intrusion yet-- in fact, I've run 5 different boats with this ESC and the only time I've had any failure was when my cooling line got clogged due to water debris and my entire system overheated).

I think 6S is really pushing it myself. But if you use 6S on it it might help if you did not use the internal BEC and run a separate RX battery pack-- that should remove some stress from the system.
Chief

this was before the dual rudder and running a m440 prop

this is the dual rudder and water supply with the stock esc


stock esc and capacitors went =


i went and installed the seaking 130a HV esc and lowered the timing with the programming card and i am using a dimension engineering sport bec, with the esc not running through the bec. i also dremmeled more out of the strut and was able to raise it a little more wich helped a bit even tho there is still a bit of bounce in it on top end. and im still getting hot even with dual water cooling?

[angrycat]

i will be running the boat with stock prop and possibly trying to de tongue an old x642 because even running with an m440 i hit 135 on the motor within 3-4 minuets. i might just buy a few 2s packs and throw a regular x642 prop on it and leave the 6s for the carbon blackjack hull im building if i cant get the temps down .....

[lenny]

Hi,
Are you sure water is flowing good in and out of the motor water jacket ?
I changed the nipple on my HRC to the stock leopard nipples an got a lot better flow now,
Some times the stock jacket nipples are to far in and slow the flow of the water in and out a lot.
Because the almost touch the motor can,
And also debris in the water will get stuck and build up like a dam if they are to close to the can to.
Take a look at this post.
http://forums.offshoreelectrics.com/...ubing-question

[BHChieftain]

Also double check your spacing between the drive dog and strut-- you want 2-3mm as the flex cable shrinks under load.
Chief

Sent from my XT890 using Tapatalk 2

[lenny]

Ditch the thrust washer and that will give you more room,
I do not use them on any of my boats.

[angrycat]

so the motor finally went, i shouldnt say the motor went but rather one of the wires broke off inside the motor can. i never realized how small the wires actually were untill i had it side by side with the turnigy sk3 i was swapping it out for. so now i will be running the sk3 1900kv 3659 with the m440 prop. quality of the turnigy motor seems excellent so hopefully i wil have better luck running 6s in her and be closer to the 65-70 mark now that i finally have the strut dialed in. quick question, does anyone know if i can purchase de-tongued props? preferrably a x442 sharpened balanced and detounged? not that i dont know how to do it but im just not 100% comfortable cutting up a $30 prop just to screw it up

[angrycat]

well initial tests went well and temps never got over 138 which is pretty good imo for a 4 pole 1900kv that i installed as more of a joke to see how it would compare to the stock motor. i might try the 1600kv motor within the next few days with an x442 and see how the temps look. also who makes a good amp data logging system that is fairly priced and sized?

[BHChieftain]

The smallest "stock" detounged prop from octura that I have ever been able to find is the M445 (the "M" indicates it is detounged). You'll need to make your own m442 from an x442, or you could take an M445 and reduce the diameter. Note the M445 hub is really long compared the x442.

Chief

[angrycat]

[angrycat]

[angrycat]

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